The progressive "smart climate" folks around here would go nuts if the large sheltered workshop organization in the area made something like that... it's okay for them to assemble gift boxes of booze for a local distributer though.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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I’ve been doing this for about 35 years and still not that good at free hand filing, lol. I mostly use square ground now but for round filing these are the 2 best things I’ve used to keep things “right” and cutting good
There are many threads here on 'bar dressing' if you do a search. Lots of options, Lots of opinions. Some guys using grinding wheels, belt sanders, special tools, etc. Here is one thread:
https://www.arboristsite.com/threads/bar-dressing.315936/
I used to clamp the bar in a vice, start with a large, coarse file, and finish off with a finer file, leaving a micro chamfer. Then, I found these tools, which I had avoided due to the cost, and really like them. They work well, and can be used without a vise. *The cheap ones on eBay come with cheap files* You get what you pay for.
Philbert
Chains coming out of one of the local shops are "grinder only" once they've been there. My son grabbed up some chains that people left at the shop for disposal that looked like they had lots of life in them despite being stoned/steeled -- they bought new chains. They had clearly been ground previously and a file slid right across those chains... no bite at all. It was a nice thought to get some free chains but all they did was add to the pile of scrape steel for sale.I hate that. That may be a little strong, I despise that to the core of my being.
Yep... nothing to add really everyone covered the issues and I had hit the multi quote thing....
my neighbor is a total jack arse in ever sense of the word. I just didn't want to see him drop a tree on him self. I did kinda expect him to tell me to F-off.That's funny, well sort of.
When I was hauling steel I'd do multi stop loads starting the day with 90-104k on the deck, it was interesting going to many of the smaller shops that would only get 10-20' in skidded coils. Many times I would watch them struggle lifting the skid with forks that were a little to short, then backing up only to leave the skid sitting exactly where it was when they started. After that they would approach it at a bit of an angle, which would give less reach on one side and the same or a little less on the other, then they would do the same thing, lift it and back up only to have the skid stay in the exact same place. I'd watch for a bit until I figured out they would take forever and they weren't just having a bad day, but sucked at their job, then I'd ask the question and prepare for the backlash. Would you like a little help
. All I needed to do was to lay a rubber pad on their forks and the skid would have been easily pulled to the edge, but their pride stopped them from making it easy on themselves. Some of the forks even had a hole drilled in them from a previous receiver, you could just drop a bolt in there and it would grab the skid
. It's funny that they wouldn't take advice from a kid (me) because they were older, I started hauling steel when I was 25, I've even been kicked out of plants where I was picking up "because I wasn't allowed in there"
When working with others I try to be open to hearing what they have to say, as you should continue learning in life, it's a never ending thing. Although there are times where you flat out don't want the advice because you want to work thru things yourself and just need everyone to be quiet so that can happen.
That little SUV looks good.
What are the major issues with those, I see them all the time for great prices.
So far as i know iac valve clogging and Intake gasket leaks are the biggest things. Actually pretty solid little vehicles with any amount of routine upkeep.
I use one of these after a corse flat file depending in how nasty the burr is. Very effective if you use them pretty often.
They'll be fine after a couple light grindings, it doesn't usually go very deep.
Sad they do that to them though.
I just went through some a couple days ago trying to find a 20x.325, 78dl, not the 80dl of which I have 4 new chains sitting on the shelf
. I went thru quite a few, then when I was about ready to give up, I found a freshly sharpened one hanging on my vice with a decent bar on it too 
. I don't often use 325 on a 20", so it wasn't something I had well organized, not that much of my stuff is, but I can usually quickly find what I'm looking for.Here's one of the too sharpen piles, guessing it will only grow until next winter
.Maybe I should send them to @sean donato , shouldn't take more than 15hrs giving 15 min each, and I know he's got lots of spare time
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You can actually get 3/4 of them back by using a grinder (the right way) and grinding through the hardened area. The grinder basically case hardens the cutter. A sharp stone and steady hand can correct the mistake of the untrained.
I use the vallorbe version, or I just hit them with a handheld grinder/dremel, and sometimes I run them on the side of the raker grinder wheel if I'm using that.
When I responded to him in regards to this I thought he was talking about the burr on the cutters
.
You must have been typing that when I hit "post reply" lol.
That sucks, mine are pretty good. I make sure I'm always helping them, good neighbors are
.png "Love :heart:")
. It's one of the reasons we decided to stay here and build the barn rather than buy/build elsewhere, good neighbors and good water, electricity is consistent too as it's local.Good to know, maybe I'll snag one up in the future. No trans problems?
Tell you what chipper, you send that mess and when I'm sitting on the babies I'll sharpen them for you.... may take till they graduate to get through the pile but I'll get them done.They'll be fine after a couple light grindings, it doesn't usually go very deep.
Sad they do that to them though.
I just went through some a couple days ago trying to find a 20x.325, 78dl, not the 80dl of which I have 4 new chains sitting on the shelf
Here's one of the too sharpen piles, guessing it will only grow until next winter
Maybe I should send them to @sean donato , shouldn't take more than 15hrs giving 15 min each, and I know he's got lots of spare time
View attachment 1000564
Right, that's kinda how I feel about them. I figure they aren't bad to have around, and if things slow down I can always utilize them. I just grab one out of there every now and then and hand file it and run it, I haven't ran a grinder in months, but I have gone thru a dozen chains/files this yr.Tell you what chipper, you send that mess and when I'm sitting on the babies I'll sharpen them for you.... may take till they graduate to get through the pile but I'll get them done.
I need to buck up the red oak that I have on my trailer, I did split the load of cherry I had in the bucket of the little bota two days ago
, well with the hydraulic splitter .
It's good to have good neighbors.You must have been typing that when I hit "post reply" lol.
That sucks, mine are pretty good. I make sure I'm always helping them, good neighbors are
Good to know, maybe I'll snag one up in the future. No trans problems?
Not that I know of. It is a second generation and supposed to be a bit more refined then the first version. Still learning about them though.So didn't hear of anything horrible and neither of my uncles said anything terrible about this body style.
Thanks, a lot to digest. I thought the wheel was too narrow and it did look like he burned them a little. However, I watched and didn't think he was pressing hard or going fast. Relative I know, especially for someone without any experience.There are a few things I see see that I don't like about that grind job.
One, the wheel used was a 1/8" wheel, which is what should be used on lp/picco chain(as was mentioned) or .325 chain. Two, even if you were using that wheel it should not have been run into the cutter as far as he did because now the gullet will not support a file because it's too deep for that size wheel/file. The gullet should not be a problem at that point in the chains life as the working corner of the cutter still sticks out further than the gullet at its highest/longest point. But if I was using that size wheel, I would personally still file the gullet back enough to where there was enough of a shelf to hold a small file up to help get the top plate filed well if I didn't have a roller guide or a way to sharpen with both hands(makes it easier to pull the file up to the top plate if there is no shelf to rest the file on).
Three it looks as though he's slightly bluing the cutters, which hardens the steel and makes them more difficult to file.
Do not hit the burr with a grinder as that will damage the sideplate, the burrs should come off as soon as you put the chain in the wood; if they do not, then I would either request the guy take it slower when he's grinding or take them somewhere else.
While learning to sharpen can have a steep learning curve, if you make it a goal you can get past the curve much quicker. I decided one yr I was going to learn all I could about sharpening, while the classes weren't cheap(I bought many grinders, files, filing jigs, roller guides, raker guides, and even an unobtainable raker grinder), I learned how a sharpened cutter should look(basically like a new chain
So, looking at your chain, does it look like a new chain?
Helpful tools for this are the stihl 2 in 1, or the husky roller guide. Also many of the filing jigs are great for those learning, but can be somewhat difficult to set up, while the other two suggested above are very simple to use, but have room for error if you have a hard time keeping the angles correct.
I do not use that type of raker gauge, as it sets the rakers based on a fixed number (.025 is the front one you have it on, and it goes up by .005 as you go towards the back. The problem with those is one, they are not progressive(they don't remove more of the raker as the chain is worn), and they use an average of multiple cutters heights to set the height of a raker, rather than only the height of the cutter and raker that corresponds to it.
That is somewhat true.
When you use the file called for by the manufacturer at the beginning of the chains life, you will have a little extra material left in the gullet. That material can be removed as another process, or you can use a larger file(one size up) to remove the material while filling the cutter. Using a larger file will change the side plate angle/hook, so you will need to remove a little more from the depth gauges in order to compensate. When cutting harder or frozen wood I will also use a larger file to reduce the hook, this leaves more material in the corner making the cutter stronger so it dulls slower.
I see you corrected your interpretation of what I said about the bar burr.
So, looking at your chain, does it look like a new chain? Not really.
I'll look into those two tools
He used two different machines. The first on, an Oregon, was used to sharpen the bottom side of the teeth and the gullet (he said) Sorry for the improper terminology. The second, was fir the rakers. So he got it all done in just two steps.
I did notice the bluing and the outside edge doesn't appear to be sharpened, either.
It does cut better, but not like a new chain. That's why I thought the gullet needed work on.
Sorry I didn't do a search first. I'll try a flat file first Then maybe one of those tools.I use the vallorbe version, or I just hit them with a handheld grinder/dremel, and sometimes I run them on the side of the raker grinder wheel if I'm using that.
When I responded to him in regards to this I thought he was talking about the burr on the cutters
The discoloration of your cutters and the burrs on your links indicate a problem!
Chain too tight?
Chain run dull?
Lack of oil?
I think he opened the gullets just fine, but ID what the problem is causing your chain to do this.
Since rock scrounging was a topic a day or 2 ago. Saw this sitting along the road on my way to sell produce yesterday. I think it was abandoned as I know the guy who owns the property where it is sitting and doesn't look like something he would do.
Just a few notes on the grinder comments. Grinders do not overheat cutters if used correctly. Guys with little patience or understanding try to use them like a chop saw and apply a lot of pressure.
The abrasive also dulls with use, and needs to be ‘dressed’ periodically to expose fresh edges. I lightly dress my wheels once per chain loop.
Put together, aggressive grinding with dull abrasive is like forcing a saw to cut with a dull chain.
If cutters are overheated (‘grinder hardened’) they can usually be made fileable again with some light grinding through the hardened layer. The chains are not necessarily ‘ruined’.
Philbert
The abrasive also dulls with use, and needs to be ‘dressed’ periodically to expose fresh edges. I lightly dress my wheels once per chain loop.
Put together, aggressive grinding with dull abrasive is like forcing a saw to cut with a dull chain.
If cutters are overheated (‘grinder hardened’) they can usually be made fileable again with some light grinding through the hardened layer. The chains are not necessarily ‘ruined’.
Philbert
WoodAbuser
aka WoodchuckAbuser
Looks a little light duty for a load of rock.
