Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Sawed up some doggone dirty cedar logs today.
Awful hard on handsaw blades... I hate mud on logs!
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I missed out on the flippy cap debate.....

Stihl caps are a great idea, but an awful design.
Husky flippy caps work fine, but I don't like em.

I've yet to see a saw with a good oil cap arrangement...... there's always way too much topography in the oil cap region, in my opinion.
 
Working on the franken365 today. Pulled the carb off and it IS a Walbro RWJ-4B which is the factory carb for a very 372 Xtorq.

I went ahead and pulled the cylinder and it appears to be a OEM 48mm non strato charged jug.

I tried putting a standard 372 carb on it but no nice with the air cleaner set up I have.

Also looks like it’s about time to be freshened up.

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Do you have a lathe in your shop.
If so, buy a 372 jug, a 268xp piston and cut a pop-up on it, then add a muffler mod. With just those mods you'll be very pleased and it's an easy saw to start.
Here's one set up that way, it also has a timing advance.
 
Sawed up some doggone dirty cedar logs today.
Awful hard on handsaw blades... I hate mud on logs!
View attachment 1056549

View attachment 1056550


I missed out on the flippy cap debate.....

Stihl caps are a great idea, but an awful design.
Husky flippy caps work fine, but I don't like em.

I've yet to see a saw with a good oil cap arrangement...... there's always way too much topography in the oil cap region, in my opinion.
Looks like a lot of work with a hands handsaw :surprised3:.
You can read it in the morning when you're waiting for things to dry out ;).
 
2 tanks on each chain. And yeah, they will require a trip to the bench top sharpener to make them cut again. I am trying and get every bit I can out of the teeth on that full chisel :)

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The semi chisel looks like this

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These days you gotta get all you can outta everything. Looks like it was cutting just fine to me.
RM for the win . Either size chain. Have ran both RS and RM and can't tell much difference in cutting speed but the RM lasts way longer in dirty wood. I did put an Oregon RS chain on the 400 the other day. (Freebie). No comparison to a Stihl RM when noodling a big dead ash. Can't wait till it wears out.
Really, you like it that much over RS.
I've noticed many times on harder/frozen wood that a lower revving saw does better, seems to help the working corner grab and feed itself.
I run semi on my mt/AutoTune 50cc saws when on jobs, I can usually get two tanks out of a sharpening even if I'm hitting dirt occasionally, which I do often because I need to get done(I can sharpen later). I run full on my larger saws, unless I'm flush cutting stumps.
 
What's funny is I messed it up too lol.
It autocorrected me and I fixed it, but didn't delete the extra "hand"
Yup, was a bit confused with that part...

My phone has a fit when I try to type "flippy" it wants us all to have "floppy" caps on our saws..... 🤔
 
Yup, was a bit confused with that part...

My phone has a fit when I try to type "flippy" it wants us all to have "floppy" caps on our saws..... 🤔
Mine doesn't like flippys either, I'm on my computer now though.
Opposed to a foots handsaw?
At least the flippy caps would work better on those than a stihl :laugh:.
 
Do you have a lathe in your shop.
If so, buy a 372 jug, a 268xp piston and cut a pop-up on it, then add a muffler mod. With just those mods you'll be very pleased and it's an easy saw to start.
Here's one set up that way, it also has a timing advance.

I do not. I was looking at just buying a tinonickel 52mm jug with a pop up.
 
I do not. I was looking at just buying a tinonickel 52mm jug with a pop up.
Bummer.
I'm not familiar with those.
Even just a 50mm jug, a muffler mod, and a base gasket delete makes a great runner. The one in the post below is set up just like that, I could probably get a little quicker rpm with a timing advance, but it runs nice as is.
For the page!

 
Sawed up some doggone dirty cedar logs today.
Awful hard on handsaw blades... I hate mud on logs!
View attachment 1056549

View attachment 1056550


I missed out on the flippy cap debate.....

Stihl caps are a great idea, but an awful design.
Husky flippy caps work fine, but I don't like em.

I've yet to see a saw with a good oil cap arrangement...... there's always way too much topography in the oil cap region, in my opinion.
Time for a pressure washer…
 
Crazy, I just moved from Detroit …spent 5 years there. Been all over the state and like what’s cool is there’s multiple vibes all over depending on the town or part of the state. And they are like Drastically different not like Iowa where it’s all the same if that makes sense lol
 
I'm late to the flippy cap debate lol. My flippy cap Stihls often leak at the oil cap...I try my best to keep them clean, but you can only do so much about gunk when out cutting. Other than that, I actually don't mind the Stihl flippy caps that much...way better than the previous gen threaded caps IMO.

My threaded-cap 066 and 044s all leak fuel from the cap...new caps and o-rings don't address the issue. I ended up with el cheapo aftermarket tanks on all 3 of them, they don't leak...the 066 leak was particularly egregious on the OEM tank.

My Huskies all seal well, the only complaint is that the caps seem to be made for gnome-sized hands. I wish the caps on my 550 and 372 had just a bit more material sticking out for my bear-paws to grip to.
 
You could buy a nice one for 10k . But people get blinded to the reality of how much it costs to rebuild a car ..... I didnt say restore just rebuild it to get it running and driving

It doesn't look like there is enough there to rebuild.
I oiled my leg up good last week when a damned flippy cap didn't latch right. What a mess; I was sawing before I felt my leg being wet. Then the cap and tether string were coated in saw dust. It is near impossible to clean it up without getting crap in the oil tank. The Stihl saws are now left at home until they learn some manners.

Happened to me a coupl times. Dribbled fuel mix over and it cleaned right up.
 

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