Also pulled the cap off the valve and I'm not thinking it's adjustable, it does have a spot a special tool could grab onto around the inside of the valve, but it appears that's to remove everything from in the valve.
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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There fine old school saws , good power ported there much better, but don’t tell chipper1 , he’s the side tensioner guru Lol
If you can find a brand name or part number on it you may be able to find some info on it using Google.
That's my exact splitter. There is a number on there, and they were quite helpful when I rebuilt my cylinder. I got a real person who spoke English and knew what they were talking about!!!Well, the cottonwood is almost all gone.
View attachment 1163938
Also bumped the speed up on the splitter a bit and backed out the screw a bit on the pump, it's splitting much better now. I still don't don't think it's doing as good as it could, a piece of black locust stopped it, and it should have at least sunk the leading portion of the wedge into it no problem.
Regardless I split a couple bucket loads of mainly BL, couple rounds worth of cherry, and a few pieces of soft maple and hard maple for next year because I didn't quite fill the barn before blocking my way in last spring.
View attachment 1163939View attachment 1163940
Here's a few tougher pieces it split, it wouldn't have even touched these before. Red oak and BL crotch pieces.
View attachment 1163942
Then I split a few more rounds for the for sale pile out front, still got a few to go to finish the pile
View attachment 1163944
Seems that valve is still in production. I heard back from the Brand company, they have lots of dealers .
Speaking of splitters, mine was acting up today. It's a brave 22 Ton simple unit.
I used it a week ago to split the first half of a load of Red Oak. Today, I got halfway through the second half, and it wouldn't split anymore. The piston moved forward and back just fine, but once it hit the wood, it acted like it hit a crotch piece. And this was pretty straight wood.
The oil level was fine, but it's been awhile since I change it. I only split at the most, 5 cord a year. The air filter was a little dirty. I removed it and it still acted the same way. I removed the exit line from the gas filter and I got a flow of gas.
The hydraulic fluid's level was only slightly down and a little milky, like from air. I changed it about five years or so ago. Any thoughts?
Does anyone's piston not retract all the way? Never noticed it before.
I used it a week ago to split the first half of a load of Red Oak. Today, I got halfway through the second half, and it wouldn't split anymore. The piston moved forward and back just fine, but once it hit the wood, it acted like it hit a crotch piece. And this was pretty straight wood.
The oil level was fine, but it's been awhile since I change it. I only split at the most, 5 cord a year. The air filter was a little dirty. I removed it and it still acted the same way. I removed the exit line from the gas filter and I got a flow of gas.
The hydraulic fluid's level was only slightly down and a little milky, like from air. I changed it about five years or so ago. Any thoughts?
Does anyone's piston not retract all the way? Never noticed it before.
@MechanicMatt
See if this interests you at all. Won't cost you a dime if you want it. I think it's the last of the big wheel case ingersoll 446 oil coolers I have. It's too small for anything I have. Just been laying around forever. It originally had some rubber and steel plates that held it in place between the tubes. Couldn't find them/can't remember if I kept them.
See if this interests you at all. Won't cost you a dime if you want it. I think it's the last of the big wheel case ingersoll 446 oil coolers I have. It's too small for anything I have. Just been laying around forever. It originally had some rubber and steel plates that held it in place between the tubes. Couldn't find them/can't remember if I kept them.
Attachments
That's the none adjustable type. Be careful with the cap off, that outer ring is just held in place by 3 or 4 very small ball bearings secured by a larger ball bearing that has a short very stiff spring. That outer ring doesn't take much to pop off and send everything flying. Don't ask how I figured that out.... Nothing to adjust. That was the issue with this one. Pops the detent before the cylinder is fully retracted. The plug on the side above the return port is the system relief valve. Also "non" adjustable in this case.
Just find a local hydraulic shop and give them the number. Any decent shop will have one on the shelf even if its a different brand.
jeagan
ArboristSite Lurker
Hi, if Matt does not want that cooler, I would love to have it for my compressor. Thank you.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
What’s the diameter of the tubing?
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Any guesses on the brass I’m trimming??
This is about 6 miles up the road. Mostly on the other side of the mountain, and the wind is keeping it on that side.
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Let me check the return line, but I think it’s in that ballpark
30-30 OR 32 Win Spec.
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
Could be a few things.
From what I found, the relief is factory set in the directional valve at 2000psi but could be stuck open from debris that wouldn't allow pressure to build in the system. This usually leads to your oil getting warmer than usual. On some machines there's an audible squeal or hissing sound when oil is flowing over the relief. The sound of the engine will change as well as it is being loaded enough to blow over the relief.
The cylinder piston seals could also be blowing by. This is usually accompanied by slower ram movement and lack of ram movement when opposition is encountered. This could also be accompanied by a lack of change in engine noise as the ram stops moving. Usually when the ram stops when splitting, the relief is opening and you'll hear the noises I described above (engine loading and relief sounds).
You could also have an air leak on the suction side of the pump. This leads to air entrapment in the oil (you mentioned milky oil) and pump cavitation and reduced pressures from the air entrapment.
Without further diagnostics and knowing what pressures are being generated at the pump output and at each port of the valves, it's pretty much a guessing game at this time.
If you feel comfortable doing some troubleshooting, you can buy hydraulic line plugs and block off your hoses where they connect to the cylinder. This will rule out bad piston seals by deadheading the pump and forcing the oil over the relief. If the engine noise doesn't change when you try moving the ram with the hoses blocked off, it's either a stuck relief or the pump isn't generating pressure as it should.
OH_Varmntr
Burner of stored sunlight
If you aren't already aware, make sure you install a cooler in the return line closest to the reservoir. Hydraulic systems usually filter the oil on the return side, but the filter can generate enough resistance to flow that a pressure is built upstream of the filter. Any coolers that are not pressure rated should be installed downstream of a return oil filter.
Most of the store bought splitters have the filters attached to the reservoirs so you'll have to remote mount the filter if yours is like that.
GeneralKayoss
ArboristSite Operative
Yeah that mess ruined my hopes of getting anything done this weekend lol
