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djg james said:
1) "From what I found, the relief is factory set in the directional valve at 2000psi but could be stuck open from debris that wouldn't allow pressure to build in the system. .....audible squeal or hissing sound ...... The sound of the engine will change ...."
How do I check this? No squeal or change in engine sound when under load.

2) "The cylinder piston seals could also be blowing by. .... slower ram movement ..... when the ram stops when splitting, the relief is opening and you'll hear the noises I described above (engine loading and relief sounds)"
Again, how do I check this? No change in engine noise or a squeal. No oil leak around ram. Internal blow by?

3) "You could also have an air leak on the suction side of the pump. ..... pump cavitation and reduced pressures....."
Any way to check this other than visual inspection? Oil leak?

4) ".....what pressures are being generated at the pump output and at each port of the valves,......"
What pressures should I be seeing at each port? May be buying a gauge (3000 psig or 5000 psig?) and appropriate fittings. Install at each line of the control valve?

5) ".... buy hydraulic line plugs and block off your hoses where they connect to the cylinder. This will rule out bad piston seals by deadheading the pump and forcing the oil over the relief. If the engine noise doesn't change when you try moving the ram with the hoses blocked off, it's either a stuck relief or the pump isn't generating pressure as it should."
Are you talking about just capping off each hose or connecting them together so you have a continuous loop for the fluid to go? If the latter, I could install a T inline and see what pressure the pump is generating?
Click to expand...
Most of your issues you just need to install a pressure gauge (at least 3500 psi) on the supply line to see what's going on.
1. Pressure gauge. You should gear the relief go off and engine load up.
2. This is pretty unlikely, it does happen but it's not normal.

3. You should easily hear the pump cavitation if it's getting air in it. Similar whine to a power steering pump, just louder in larger pumps. Can sound like a groan as well. Usually if it sucks air it will leak when the system is off.
4. This is ultimately determined by system relief settings. Pressure is resistance to flow, so depending on the load exerted on the system the pressure will change, however the flow will not. So testing this without knowing what "normal" load is, is pointless.
5. Refure to the video how to test for bypass in the cylinder.
 
sean donato said:
Most of your issues you just need to install a pressure gauge (at least 3500 psi) on the supply line to see what's going on.
1. Pressure gauge. You should gear the relief go off and engine load up.
2. This is pretty unlikely, it does happen but it's not normal.

3. You should easily hear the pump cavitation if it's getting air in it. Similar whine to a power steering pump, just louder in larger pumps. Can sound like a groan as well. Usually if it sucks air it will leak when the system is off.
4. This is ultimately determined by system relief settings. Pressure is resistance to flow, so depending on the load exerted on the system the pressure will change, however the flow will not. So testing this without knowing what "normal" load is, is pointless.
5. Refure to the video how to test for bypass in the cylinder.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the input. Good video, BUT, my cylinder has only one line going to it:
IMG_2677.JPG

The top hose (with the hose clamp) on the control valve goes back to the to of fluid tank (return line??). The hose on the right goes to the back end (opposite the ram) of the cylinder. Appears to be a 1/2" NPT ell on one end and a compression (coned??, size??, I have no idea) on the other end.
The last hose, on the bottom of the control valve, runs back to the exit side of the pump.
IMG_2676.JPG
This appears to be a 3/4" (or 1"??) NPT male fitting into the control valve. To put a Tee and a gauge in here, I'd have to break this connection. Does that fitting back out independent of the hose without the hose twisting? Not familiar with these type of fittings. If not, then I would have to first break the connection at the pump and then work on the other end.
I'm going to the farm store tomorrow to see if they have hydraulic line caps and plugs, to check the cylinder as in the video. I just don't know which one to cap now.
 
Got step one of a project done. Remember that 2005 Chevy 3500 HD that I brought back from Illinois last summer? I ended up buying it from my wife's work for $500.00. @sean donato and @MechanicMatt you were both right, it only needed a fuel pressure regulator solenoid. The old must've been stuck and it just rammed straight to 30k psi and set a code and went into derate. Replaced it and and she runs great.
Before...
20230228_171347.jpg
Pulled the box today. Clean slate, I'm thinking flatbed, headache rack and some undermount toolboxes.20240323_205011.jpg20240323_205022.jpg
Edited for spelling
 
Lee192233 said:
Got step on of a project done. Remember that 2005 Chevy 3500 HD that I brought back from Illinois last summer? I ended up buying it from my wife's work for $500.00. @sean donato and @MechanicMatt you were both right, it only need a fuel pressure regulator solenoid. The old must've been stuck and it just rammed straight to 30k psi and set a code and went into derate. Replaced it and and she runs great.
Before...
View attachment 1164193
Pulled the box today. Clean slate, I'm thinking flatbed, headache rack and some undermount toolboxes.View attachment 1164194View attachment 1164195
Click to expand...
That reefer box would be perfect to store sides of beef in or to turn into a storage building.
 
sean donato said:
Most of your issues you just need to install a pressure gauge (at least 3500 psi) on the supply line to see what's going on.
1. Pressure gauge. You should gear the relief go off and engine load up.
2. This is pretty unlikely, it does happen but it's not normal.

3. You should easily hear the pump cavitation if it's getting air in it. Similar whine to a power steering pump, just louder in larger pumps. Can sound like a groan as well. Usually if it sucks air it will leak when the system is off.
4. This is ultimately determined by system relief settings. Pressure is resistance to flow, so depending on the load exerted on the system the pressure will change, however the flow will not. So testing this without knowing what "normal" load is, is pointless.
5. Refure to the video how to test for bypass in the cylinder.
Click to expand...

Awesome, thanks for helping out.

djg james said:
Thanks for the input. Good video, BUT, my cylinder has only one line going to it:
View attachment 1164184

The top hose (with the hose clamp) on the control valve goes back to the to of fluid tank (return line??). The hose on the right goes to the back end (opposite the ram) of the cylinder. Appears to be a 1/2" NPT ell on one end and a compression (coned??, size??, I have no idea) on the other end.
The last hose, on the bottom of the control valve, runs back to the exit side of the pump.
View attachment 1164187
This appears to be a 3/4" (or 1"??) NPT male fitting into the control valve. To put a Tee and a gauge in here, I'd have to break this connection. Does that fitting back out independent of the hose without the hose twisting? Not familiar with these type of fittings. If not, then I would have to first break the connection at the pump and then work on the other end.
I'm going to the farm store tomorrow to see if they have hydraulic line caps and plugs, to check the cylinder as in the video. I just don't know which one to cap now.
Click to expand...
Your cylinder has 2 lines going to it but one is hard piped through the trunion stub and the other connection is flex hose. This complicates things a bit, but not a huge deal.

One thing to check real quick is the lovejoy coupling between the pump and engine. The setscrews can back out and the coupling halves can work themselves away from each other and become uncoupled. I've seen coupling faces just touching to where it spins the pump enough to move a ram but slips under load. So check your coupling.

848420-aa837503e486d3cc6b84f53bf121fb8a.jpg

Installing a gauge in a tee at your supply line from your pump at your valve (the fitting in the other picture) will suffice for now without blocking anything off. You'd have to disassembly the valve from the cylinder in order to block the ports off properly. I can't tell from the picture but I'd say the fitting at your valve is fixed so when you loosen it, the hose will spin with it. So like you said, you may have to remove the hose from the pump end first.

Your valve specs, according to this parts diagram shows 3/4" NPT IN/OUT ports and 1/2" NPT work ports.
 
Ok folks…esplane this one…
UFO sighting and cell ph vid, Argentina a few days ago.



Wife and we’re shown this at breakfast today by a friend who’s a very old but still has all his marbles…physicist, who proceeded to explain the math and physics needed for this thing to do what it did…and the tech doesn’t exist here…
Couldn’t find this with any search…had to manually enter the exact address.

All in Spanish but ignore the commentary and just watch.

Ezekiel and the movie, Contact come to mind…
 

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