Sears D-49 80cc Chainsaw: Sticky Compression Release

[MrCreosote]

I was given one of these back in the mid 70's and probably didn't put more than an hour or 2 on it since them.
Yesterday I learned this monster is 80cc's... (Good Grief!)
...and that explains why it is pulling the pull cord handle out of my hand when it fires/kicks! The compression is extremely high!
I believe it has an internal compression release. I think these are typically a weighted ground pin that slides in a ground hole in the crankshaft.
I also believe mine is sticking.
Every once in maybe 20 pulls, it pulls easy.
Is there any way to free this up? (maybe filling crankcase up with 10W oil or ???) It has sat for at least a decade and I suspect the crankshaft oil/fuel has gotten quite thick. maybe I just need to get it started and let it get good and hot and the CR will start working?

NOTE: This D-49 still has the extremely odd and dangerous automatic sharpening chain! you have a stone on a pivot on the bottom of he case and you use the saw wrench to turn the arm so the stone grinds the teeth! Oh brother! It's like dangerous just doing the sharpening maneuver!

I'm 67 years old and have a bunch of saws:

• 14" Poulon
• 16" Sears 72 cc D-44 Lightweight 917.351040
• 17" Sears 80 cc D-49 917.63205
• 24" Jonsered 94cc 2094 (project saw - power unit good, muffler melted safety handle off!)

and my current property isn't going to need saw work in the future. I have (5) 90' spruce trees to drop and frankly, a good corded electric saw would suit my needs (I do have a crappy 14" WEN but I keep the chain razor sharp and my tree buddy was impressed by my sharpsmanship!

Don't ask me what I was thinking when I got the Jonsered! LOL

 

[MacAttack]

I've never heard of an internal compression release on a 2-stroke, it sounds very curious. I don't think you'd hurt anything filling the crankcase with oil, as long as you then drain it all out good.

 

[Jasonrkba]

I hope i can still wrestle with those big old saws at 67. I've never seen an internal compression release either. Not saying your wrong just curious. Id spray aerokroil liberally into the crankcase if this is the problem, let it soak for a day then let it drain for a day or two. If that doesn't work you may have to open it up.

 

[MrCreosote]

I've never heard of an internal compression release on a 2-stroke, it sounds very curious. I don't think you'd hurt anything filling the crankcase with oil, as long as you then drain it all out good.

I think you may be right. It seems that 4-strokes have all sorts of centrifugal mechanism which mess with cam/valve timing. Since 2-stroke has no cam, there's no way to do it.

The saw has wicked high compression which lets you know you better be serious when pull that cord. When it runs it seems to have lots of power and while the muffler appears to be intact, the staccato of the exhaust hurts my ears - none of my other smaller saws come close to this one - one of the reason I never favored it.

What really sucks is that just pulling repeatedly (like on a normal saw) I end up getting a kick which my arthritic joints do not like! If I slowly pull to just on the other side of the compression, I get a "running start" that is much easier on me. I pull start my 14hp Kohler Snapper Rider with ease when I use that method, but it does have automatic CR. I believe I actually pull started my twin Wisconsin Hobart welder with that method.

NOTE: Reminds me of a guy starting a huge antique stationary diesel engine. He got the blow torch going, sitting on a shelf by the plug. He take the huge 6' flywheel, moves it until it is coming up on the compression, and then spins it backwards as hard as he can! It fires and kicks the wheel back now in the forward direction enough to get through the next compression/ignition stroke in the forward direction.

 

[MrCreosote]

I hope i can still wrestle with those big old saws at 67. I've never seen an internal compression release either. Not saying your wrong just curious. Id spray aerokroil liberally into the crankcase if this is the problem, let it soak for a day then let it drain for a day or two. If that doesn't work you may have to open it up.

I have to laugh. My tree buddy is a fit abscaler at 60 and he holds a full size saw in his on hand and pull starts it with the other! None of that pulling while standing on the saw stuff. I can start my baby 14" Poulon like that but seriously, if after 10 pulls if it doesn't start, I take a brake. I don't get a lot done these days! LOL

 

[Jasonrkba]

I just bought a Dewalt battery operated pole saw. It's a little heavy but no more yanking. Is it possible the occasional light pull is the flywheel paws missing the starter?

 

[MrCreosote]

I just bought a Dewalt battery operated pole saw. It's a little heavy but no more yanking. Is it possible the occasional light pull is the flywheel paws missing the starter?

Yes, you could be right. I looked at the parts schematic for my D-44 which is 70+cc and there is no CR mechanism - I think that is definitely a 4-stroke feature.

Speaking of pole saws, I have the Woodzig, Remington 8", and the B&D 18v ni-cd 8" The Woodzig I took off it's pole and bolted it to a 24' extending paint pole. I pretty tricky to wield but I can get it way up in the tree. It is only capable of 2" max (probably not even that) and has a chain made of bent wire! The Remington is super heavy since they simply bolt an 8" electric corded saw to the end of the pole. The B&D is not too bad but a favorite because I sold off all my 18v Dewalt tools and went with the old 18v ni-cd B&D Firestorm tools AND all the garden tools (trimmer, pole trimmer, pole saw, weed wacker, and cultivator). I'm a ONE BATTERY HOUSE. Their Firestorm shop tools are good enough for me - especially since I scored the impossible to get Impact Driver. I got mine years ago on eBay and haven't seen one since. One battery is THE way to go!