Sears runs then dies, stumped

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FlyingDutchman

Not again...
. AS Supporting Member.
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Older Sears model 358351200

This saw has no primer bulb and the cap is not vented. Walbro HDA model carb.

Fuel lines cracked and broke. My dad replaced the main fuel line. Filter to carb.

Saw would run then die. This is when current problem materialized. The holes in the tank are designed for larger rubber line so the new plastic line doesn't fit right. Dad figured we had the wrong line because gas couls get past and quit messing with it.

I replaced the tank vent line. It's a brass breather filter outside of the tank, that goes to a piece of fuel line, and to a rubber check valve that would allow air in but not gas out. I also noticed good flow through the fuel filter at this time.

Still same problem.

I cleaned the carb. Didn't help. Rebuild the carb. Didn't help.

On the top of the carb (not the diaphragm side the flapper valve plate side) is a line that seems to go nowhere. It was super long and and seemed to be just a carb vent. I didn't replace it because it had no destination that I could find. Does this line do anything but vent?

Saw starts OK, but as soon as you take off the choke and come off of a rev, it dies. I cleaned it and blew compressed air through every orifice and the float needle is set as per the rebuild instructions. I've got about 6 hours in it and am totally stumped.

Thanks!!
 
That line you last spoke of is the impulse line. It should be connected to a barb so it gets the fluttering of the piston going up and down. This is what drives the fuel pump.
I would go to the beg for mauals thread and ask for an IPL. That may help you locate it. They are usually at the base of the cylinder, or just under.
Sometimes it is fed through the intake block, in which case there is no need for an exterior jumper hose.
 
The parts list on Searspartsdirect was insufficient to come to that conclusion, either. My other newer Sears and Poulan saws don't have that line!!

I have two project Stihl saws I couldn't get to run either that probably also have the same problem haha.

I have just enough fuel line left to get to the engine so this should work out nicely thanks for the tip!!!
 
This is a complete c*** to get to. Rear handle assy is coming off and parts are just crumbling along the way... Hopefully going to avoid another Sears parts order (working on 4 other saws) but seems inevitable.
 
FlyingDutchman said:
This is a complete c*** to get to. Rear handle assy is coming off and parts are just crumbling along the way... Hopefully going to avoid another Sears parts order (working on 4 other saws) but seems inevitable.
Click to expand...

Sometimes you can with some digging you can cross reference those Sears/Craftsman saws to a Poulan model and then go to flea bay to get away from Sears Parts direct to save some $$'s on parts.
I think maybe there is a Poulan thread forum on this site somewhere where you might ask a question about cross reference???

I started using tygon tubing sometime back and I get the ID and OD of the OEM lines and then get the correct size tygon. I've never has to splice to different sizes lines yet, but you can do such by using plastic tubing or short pieces of cu tubing. (so as to get a tight fit thru the gas tank holes)
Good luck to you and your Craftsman?Poulan.

Yes the parts and pieces tend to crumble on them type saws.
You have to be real careful (and it's a challenge you get from experience) when working on those type OCCASIONAL USE SAWS, because you can easily get more $$'s into one for parts than the saw is worth or more than a new Poulan replacement saw costs not counting your time working on one at $1 an hour. (how do I know this) I also do not attempt repairs on the Sears/Craftsman/Poulan type saws for people other than myself. They fit into the modern times category of throw it away and go buy new.
I feel your pain also. Makes you appreciate a good made saw when you see one.

Respectfully
 
I guess I don't have that tool and it also has clamp installed I can't get off. I understand that these saws are not worth it. I have all the working equipment, so he won't cut wood unless I'm around. He will cut wood on his own if he has a working saw. He's also attached to the saw to some degree and this Sears is actually a nice saw. It's a really stupid arrangement but I have learned a great deal working on this junk.

The carburetor adapter and the clamp that holds it on is damaged. Parts 49 and 52 on the crankcase diagram. http://www.searspartsdirect.com/model-number/358351200/0247/1503220.html

Probably have to find a used one or toss it now....
 
The clamp that went on said boot had a gap bridging sleeve on it. It had broken and cut into the boot around the sealing surface. I used a permatex gasket dressing and sealant which is designed to stay flexible in a fuel environment and is very liquidy.. to fill the cut and seal the boot to the cylinder. The boot I believe is still available but indirectly. Ereplacement parts had it and Sears parts direct had it, but I didn't buy the part to try it. Some of the other parts that broke were dust caps for the isolator screws. These had 4 tangs that expanded when you put in a screw. One tang broke off on both of them but they still worked fine...

I also had to use two cans of degreaser to clean it. It's got an adjustable bar oiler and I think it's set way too high, it also leaves a puddle when you are done running it. Hopefully I can get that set correctly and don't need to reseal or replace the oil pump.

Saw starts and runs great now. Just following up to thank everyone.
 
Glad to hear you got it up and running. Just so you know that saw is nowhere near a throw away saw. That should be a pro construction mag case saw. I have about 4 in that series. Absolutely worth repairing. I can promise i wouldnt trade my 335 pro for any equivalent other brand.
 
About your oiler. Fill the saw with gas and bar oil and run the saw in wood and check the bar oil tank capacity after about 1/2 tank of gas. The bar oil tank should last thru a tank of gas. Better to be over oiling than weak oiling.

When thru cutting set the saw down in a catch pan and let it set overnight or about 24 hours. If you see quite a bit of oil, run the saw and then before testing again loosen the oil cap first and let it rest again for 24 hours. Sometimes a heat pressure will force the oil out when it's cooling down. Oil pumps for those are usually readily available from flea bay very reasonable and easy to get at on the saw. Remove yours first and make sure the in and out areas are sealing good and look at part numbers and pictures before getting a replacement to compare and you can find some good videos on you tube about replacement procedures.
I've replaced the oilers on Poulans and Homelites they would still leak bar oil during storage, but oil correctly when being used, so I either dump the bar oil or store the saw in a carrying case or catch pan and let it relieve itself in the bedpan.;)

I've patched holes and slits in Rubber CV boots on my ATV front axles (as a temporary repair) using a electrical liquid rubber that bonds real good and stays flexible, just cleaned the boot surface good with lacquer thinner and apply light coat and when the first coat gets tacky apply a second coat and let dry for 24 hours. Think it's made by 3M and sold as liquid electrical tape and comes in a can with a brush attached to the lid.
The black liquid rubber sealer actually sealed the CV ribbed rubber boots really good enough to hold in grease and keep out water even with the CV boot flexing if the previous rubber damage was not real severe for long time so as I did not have to make immediate repairs.
 
Okie. Luckily it wasn't torn in a critical area. Good tip to know!!!

Sitting there, the saw does not nessecarily keep leaking... but it does leak awhile after operation.... I disagree with the fact that over oiling is better. There is a point where the oil sludge becomes problematic and plugs up the saw like this one. The plus side... This is the same bar on a saw thats been used for 20 years or more haha. I don't know.

Boomer...Yes dad loves this saw. When it broke he replaced with an MS290 but he much preferred this one still. Someone stole the 290 so now he has a saw again for 20 years hopefully.
 
Just to follow up on this thread.

Dad is still running and LOVING this saw to bits- its a strong performer. However, the saw has big problems with not starting when "hot"or after refueling.

The problem is, the fuel tank leaks because of the poorly fitting lines and fouls out the ignition switch grounding the saw. Once the area has some time to dry, it comes back to life no problem. We've taken to just fueling it in half tanks at this point.

Just wondering if anyone has a suggestion for a sealant for the lines that will hold up in this environment. I still have some of the gasket dressing and sealant I used on the intake boot tear I was going to try.
 
FlyingDutchman said:
Just to follow up on this thread.

Dad is still running and LOVING this saw to bits- its a strong performer. However, the saw has big problems with not starting when "hot"or after refueling.

The problem is, the fuel tank leaks because of the poorly fitting lines and fouls out the ignition switch grounding the saw. Once the area has some time to dry, it comes back to life no problem. We've taken to just fueling it in half tanks at this point.
Click to expand...
Use the correct size lines or something closer. What size line did you use? Where exactly is it leaking from?
 

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