Sharpening cut resistant gloves recommendation s

[unknwn]

Following advice to utilize a new chain to determine angle(s) parameters for my sharpening regime made me keenly aware of the -coated- gloves I spotted in photos of the sharpening threads.
Now that my thumb pad is a bit less sensitive (even factory sharp is capable of fingerprint removal!) I'd like to source some worthwhile cut resistant gloves, but falling back on others purchasing foibles might leave me more treasure to spend on files and such.
Anyone out there have a favorite? -or- find themselves willing to say that a specific type/brand/model might be worth the extra -or is there even a great deal to be had ?
Is an A4 versus A5, ect. - (kevlar,steel, type of coating ) and the resistance rating going to justify the vast cost array that I'm swimming in?
Just another of those things that eat up bucks and time to learn "the best" or "adequate", or even ???

 

[sean donato]

Can't say I ever wore gloves when filing a chain. Note have I really ever cut up my hand real bad from doing so. I'd hazard to say technique is off a bit, if getting cut is a frequent thing. Being cautious is also paramount when dealing with sharp chains. I'd call it growing pains and learn from your situation rather then get gloves that will affect your feel of the file. Jmo.

 

[CentaurG2]

Good old atlas 300 work just fine. You want something with a little more dexterity, go with Atlas 380. Buy them by the dozen and wash/change them out frequently. Neither are cut proof but they will protect your hands from a cutter tooth when sharpening. I would be more worried about the edge of a bar than a cutter.

 

[Philbert]

I recommend just a thin pair of ‘mechanics’ - style’ gloves, which provide protection against accidental contact, but maintain good dexterity.

Philbert

 

[pioneerguy600]

These have worked well for me as carving cloves, can feel a file through them very nicely.

https://www.globalindustrial.ca/p/2...q728bcvfTM-8xbj5uiMK64fTRIWlhZNRoCOBYQAvD_BwE

 

[Philbert]

Note that “cut resistant“ gloves are designed to protect against slicing type cuts. They won’t necessarily protect against a pointy puncture, such as from the tip of a full chisel cutter.

Philbert

 

[unknwn]

I only figured the cut-resistant type were what I saw worn in photos in a few of the sharpening threads.
When gripping the chain (across a cutter,naturally) between thumb and fore-finger to drag it across the bar and wrangle into position under the stop leaf it flayed a slot sort of cut on my thumb. Put a stop to learning for that particular episode.
I'm also pushing that cut-resistant make-up (coating, weave, material -combination?-) so that protection lasts more than a single sharpening session.
The typical mechanics gloves I've used to keep from being burnt, and skinning knuckles would probably fail at the fingertips before I'd feel I got any money's worth.
I'll be looking up the specific few types that were fielded so far. Brand and model code s that have succeeded sure are appreciated.
By the time I receive the remaining round file sizes for the different chains I'm maintaining I figure to have gotten a sample of a glove of choice to extend my sharpening session time. Something has to hold up better than my bare fingertips. Taking them back off to do the actual filing isn't problematic because there's no flat-rate involved, I just really find it hard to get along with the Ouch! factor.
Keep any suggestions coming, I appreciate all the options being afforded me just for the asking.

 

[Del_]

I'm not putting down anyone that uses gloves.

In my opinion the dexterity required to do a really good chain sharpening with round or square files means that the sharpener would have a high enough level of dexterity to not slice themselves while sharpening.

When I do wear gloves sharpening it is more about not getting my hands so greasy.

 

[ericm979]

I use an old thin single layer leather work glove on one hand when sharpening. I use that hand to move the chain and hold the chain and bar while I operate the file with the other non gloved hand. I used to do it with no gloves, which works but requires care, then realized that I didn't need dexterity with my left hand and there was an old glove with a hole in one finger sitting on the workbench.

 

[Philbert]

'Cut resistant gloves' work in different ways. Some are just thick material, like leather. Some have fibers or threads that are hard to slice (but as noted, are not puncture resistant) *** but should never be used aroung moving parts or running chains***. Gloves with chaps-type protective fibers are designed to stall a running chain, but are also not puncture resistant.

When gripping the chain (across a cutter,naturally) between thumb and fore-finger to drag it across the bar and wrangle into position under the stop leaf it flayed a slot sort of cut on my thumb. . . .
The typical mechanics gloves I've used to keep from being burnt, and skinning knuckles would probably fail at the fingertips before I'd feel I got any money's worth.

For your application, I would still recommend the mechanics'-style gloves, but maybe paint some Shoe-Goo or Seam Grip Adhesive Repair Sealant on the appropriate finger tips to protect them. I have extended the life of several pairs of favorite gloves this way.

Philbert

 

[Wood Doctor]

'Cut resistant gloves' work in different ways. Some are just thick material, like leather. Some have fibers or threads that are hard to slice (but as noted, are not puncture resistant) *** but should never be used aroung moving parts or running chains***. Gloves with chaps-type protective fibers are designed to stall a running chain, but are also not puncture resistant.
View attachment 921230View attachment 921231


For your application, I would still recommend the mechanics'-style gloves, but maybe paint some Shoe-Goo or Seam Grip Adhesive Repair Sealant on the appropriate finger tips to protect them. I have extended the life of several pairs of favorite gloves this way.

Philbert

Agreed. I tried Kevlar gloves and while they last long, they are also slippery and I got tired of dropping tools while trying to wear them. Eventually even Kevlar gloves wear out at the finger tips and they are lousy in cold weather.

 

[SawTrash]

I have never worn gloves when hand filing chains mainly because my test for cutter sharpness is to GENTLY see how "prickly" the point of the hook feels and how "edgy" the top plate is on bare fingerpads.

Same when sharpening knives, chisels, drill bits, axes, any cutting tool.

I always put the guards back on my saws whenever I'm not either sharpening or adjusting the tension.

Of course I've had some nicks and scratches over the years but they're just reminders to stay focused.

 

[sean donato]

I just shove the chin front to the next cutter with the back end of the file. Use the chain brake to hold it still.

 

[unknwn]

I'm in the process of getting the "feel" for this, having never used the bar mounted jig (early "yellow" Oregon) until just now.
The jig-assisted work is going to be an indoor thing for the most part, so comfort (warmth) isn't going to be an issue. The coated/kevlar/-resistant- glove thing is just going to help me overcome the occasional mistake that I've just recently learned can lead to 1/2 a week (maybe more) of minor suffering (fingers are mighty "touchy" since my accident & aftermath).
Since starting this thread I've located a product that -may- just fill the bill, once I've had opportunity to ask them a couple of questions, I'll likely pull the trigger on these: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/tools/apparel-and-safety-gear/gloves/72972-cut-resistant-gloves
One thing I've learned about Lee Valley, I've never been able to discern a "dud" in any of their half-dozen catalogs. I did some pretty thorough looking, and couldn't find these particular ones -anywhere- else. A little bit pricey for an unknown, so far as how they'll hold up to this sort of abuse, but I'm about to find out, eh?

 

[Philbert]

I like a lot of Lee Valley stuff.

Let us know how those gloves work out for you: that’s the key benefit of these threads.

Philbert

 

[OM617YOTA]

Pull the chain forward around the bar, so you're applying pressure to the dull side of the cutter.

 

[unknwn]

Pull the chain forward around the bar, so you're applying pressure to the dull side of the cutter.

I think where I phookdup was pushing/pulling against and through the stop leaf spring for position. I'm -still- nursing a problem digit with a divot the majority of the week since, makes it rough to do all sorts of pinch/grip tasks without wincing.
As I indicated prior, the learning phase of chain handling & sharpening can be unforgiving.

 

[Bwildered]

A sharpened chain is extremely sharp & if a slip occurs a deep cut usually follows, on the back of the fingers too, I've cut myself a few times, it usually happens using a worn out file & you're pushing harder than normal to try and get it to cut, I just wear just leather rigger type of gloves now.

 

[trains]

Pull the chain forward around the bar, so you're applying pressure to the dull side of the cutter.

with the file, or a scrench.
Never fingers, well ok, yes you can, but beware the slip.

 

[camel2019]

Never wore gloves when sharpening chain.did wear gloves only after my hands had started looking like a lynx mauled them when my new to me 100ft spool cardboard spool came apart and I had to deal with that being tangled.