Shop chimney

[Husqvarnaman92]

i need to put up a new chimney for my wood stove in my shop this year. My shop is a pole building with a metal roof. Right now have a black stove pipe chimney through the wall but it was just a temporary chimney. I figured the stainless through the wall chimney would be the best route but it will not be cheap. Ive seen people around here get a long 8in culvert and stand it up and bury it in the ground next to the building then run a pipe through the wall and into the culvert to act as a chimney. i think that would be a cheap and easy way to go but i dont know how well it would work. I was wondering if anyone on here has used a culvert for a chimney before and has had good luck with it

 

[Little Al]

I have no idea of your legislation, but in the part of France where I live a lot of houses & i would say 90% of workshops are wood burner heated we are allowed single skin stove pipes usually SS to be run from stove through room/s exiting through roof (with certain restrictions ) & this increases the heat output into the room, we also have a radiator type unit that fits into the stove pipe & provides heat in an upstairs room that the pipe passes through. When I first did my shop I used a 4th or so hand stove & the flue pipe was rear exit so I routed it through the wall some years later when I replaced the stove I routed the flue up through the shop & out the roof the difference in the supplied heat is noticeable.

 

[farmer steve]

i need to put up a new chimney for my wood stove in my shop this year. My shop is a pole building with a metal roof. Right now have a black stove pipe chimney through the wall but it was just a temporary chimney. I figured the stainless through the wall chimney would be the best route but it will not be cheap. Ive seen people around here get a long 8in culvert and stand it up and bury it in the ground next to the building then run a pipe through the wall and into the culvert to act as a chimney. i think that would be a cheap and easy way to go but i dont know how well it would work. I was wondering if anyone on here has used a culvert for a chimney before and has had good luck with it

don't know about the culvert but i have seen it done. my shop is cinderblock and i ran single wall stainless through the wall and attached it to the wall up the side with aluminum straps. i used to have galvanized and replaced it yearly. on my 5th year with the stainless so it was worth the $$. check craigslist for chimney pipe. ya never know.

 

[Marshy]

Galvanized stove pipe is not for solid fuel combustors (stoves), plain and simple.

Regarding the culvert idea for a chimney, I wouldn't do it. I would use single wall black pipe before I would a culvert pipe like you described. The single wall black pipe is cheap and you would probably get 1-2 years out of it on the exterior. You might have issues with creosote though depending on your stove. Any single wall pipe is going to give up a ton of flue heat and condense the gasses before they can exit. I don't know your local codes but I strongly advise you purchase the proper wall or ceiling penetration kit for the stove pipe and abide by the minimal clearance to combustibles. Check on Craigslist for tripple wall stove pipe, you can usually find some used stuff for cheap.

 

[WVwoodsman]

Here in WV. I see quite a few chimneys for garages and shops such as you describe made out of well casing pipe that has a significant wall thickness and lasts for a long time. Since oil and gas drilling is big business here, there is lots of pipe around and it goes for about $6 a foot for 6 in. and $8 a foot for 8 in. and so on. As long as the wall thickness is substantial I would say to go ahead and use it! I am going to use some 6 in. for my OWB as I am tired of buying 3ft. sections of stainless duravent for $70 that only last a few years when I can buy a whole 7ft. section of steel well casing pipe for the same price and it will last for 4 - 6 years or more!

 

[Mustang71]

The idea is to keep the chimney warm to avoid creosote build up from the flu gasses condensing. If you plan on heating a lot of do a triple wall stainless steel chimney that's what I have for my house. If you just want heat for when you are out there then a thick wall steel chimney should be ok.

 

[Guswhit]

I had issues with an exterior metal chimney once. I had gotten ahold of some schedule 80 pipe that was 8" and decided to weld up a solid chimney to the back of the stove. In theory it was a great idea that I would never have a burn through using pipe like this. The issue I had going up 20' of the building was the condensation. I finally had to motor cement blocks around it and fill with vermiculite to keep it from freezing the condensate in the chimney. But, I lived in northern Illinois at the time with very unpredictable winters.

 

[Marine5068]

Here in Canada (southern Ontario/snow belt region) we have very challenging winter weather. Ice storms, heaving snowfalls windy blizzards. and I would only use triple walled stove pipes for running outside.
Way too much creosote buildup inside the chimney if you don't and you probably wouldn't get insured either.
I have a triple insulate 12"O/D with 8"I/D Superflue stainless chimney and it's a straight run up through the house and have had no buildup issues in 12 years burning.
Actually every time I clean it (twice a year) it surprises me how little build up is in it.
The stove has a 6" out so an narrow-to-wide adapter was necessary and I use a short piece of black stove pipe to mate to the chimney.
I also think that making sure the wood is very dry and seasoned and the good stove quality makes a difference in buildup not forming.
All in all I'm very happy with the set up and Drolet stove with the aux fan attached and it pumps out the heat in the basement and it flows up stairs nicely.
(first pic is new Drolet wood-stove in operation: second and third pics are pipe and adapter being cut to length, cleaned and repainted; last pic is old Century wood-stove showing how it attaches to Superflue chimney)

 

[Marshy]

I just bought 20 feet of Selkirk ST stainless insulated pipe for $400. That's 5 sections of 4 foot lengths which typically sell for $180 each. It also came with 4 clams which are $10 a pop. It was never fired, brand new still! I have to go lay low, the police will be looking for me because I practically stole it.

 

[tnflatbed]

i need to put up a new chimney for my wood stove in my shop this year. My shop is a pole building with a metal roof. Right now have a black stove pipe chimney through the wall but it was just a temporary chimney. I figured the stainless through the wall chimney would be the best route but it will not be cheap. Ive seen people around here get a long 8in culvert and stand it up and bury it in the ground next to the building then run a pipe through the wall and into the culvert to act as a chimney. i think that would be a cheap and easy way to go but i dont know how well it would work. I was wondering if anyone on here has used a culvert for a chimney before and has had good luck with it

That's exactly what my neighbor did a few years ago. He has a culvert standing on end for a chimney and a little volzang running out through the side of his 20x20 metal building. He is usually out there at least one of his weekend days during the winter so it must work pretty good. It actually doesn't look bad either with the building being metal construction.

 

[Circle B MN]

Black pipe into double wall, all indoors. Zero creosote.......Well worth the investment.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Our shop has an 8" well casing off the top of the stove (about 5/16" thick) that connects to chimney pipe where it passes through the roof and outside.

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Well casing outside would be tough to keep warm. Even with the insulated chimney it's pretty cold at the top... ie... collects creosote.
I'm sure doesn't help that we burn anything in the stove, so it's wet/snow covered, just cut, trash, dead hookers, phone poles, rr ties, chainsaws that never run right and would make a nun swear, etc. hahaha.