It's about time someone said to leave the 2 or 3 bad teeth go and sharpen too the rest that are long rather than grinding them all to the shortest teeth. The biggest mistake made when grinding is not getting the wheel low enough resulting no or negative hook angle on the side plate, I've had plenty coming in here from saw shops like that and they don't cut . Grinder vs new vs hand sharpening is no night and day difference . I've seen a test where they did a test and good hand sharpening cut the fastest by less than 1/2 in a 15 second cut. I've timed my self running the grinder 4 minutes total off the saw sharpen and back on not doing the rakers on a 20" .325. Steve
Shop Re-Sharpened Chains vs. Factory
- Thread starter John Lyngdal
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It's about time someone said to leave the 2 or 3 bad teeth go and sharpen too the rest that are long rather than grinding them all to the shortest teeth. The biggest mistake made when grinding is not getting the wheel low enough resulting no or negative hook angle on the side plate, I've had plenty coming in here from saw shops like that and they don't cut . Grinder vs new vs hand sharpening is no night and day difference . I've seen a test where they did a test and good hand sharpening cut the fastest by less than 1/2 in a 15 second cut. I've timed my self running the grinder 4 minutes total off the saw sharpen and back on not doing the rakers on a 20" .325. Steve
Chris-PA
Where the Wild Things Are
A 3-pack of Stihl files is around $5 at the local ACE hardware here.
The cost of not being able to do something yourself is having to pay someone else to do it.
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There are dozens of these of different colors and with different brand badges. Mine is black and has a Grizzly badge on it. They are all rather cheaply made, but get it done repeatedly. Once set up, for most people, a single adjustment for right vs. left cutters is all that ever needs changing. If 25degs is really 23 or 27, it doesn't matter after your first sharpening.
My machine sharpened chains cut as good as factory new. After the learning curve of using such a machine.
My machine sharpened chains cut as good as factory new. After the learning curve of using such a machine.
or this one
Woodblocker55
TonyM
ArboristSite Guru
If you get a grinder do yourself a favor and buy one of these.
http://www.diamondwheelinc.com/chain-saw-wheels.html
4 times the price of a grinding wheel but no dressing, no burning, and last a long, long time. I've had mine for over 10 years and they still work good.
http://www.diamondwheelinc.com/chain-saw-wheels.html
4 times the price of a grinding wheel but no dressing, no burning, and last a long, long time. I've had mine for over 10 years and they still work good.
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
People like this really bothers me. You don't think my techs deserve a pay check or cover the expenses and upkeep of the shop and equipment? On a plus side most time I would rather sell you a new chain. No man hours or equipment involved so easier profit. So many people thinks every service should be free or at the expense of the shop. And people wonder why places can't stay in business.
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Of course they do. But at $20 (Husky, 84L, full chisel, skip tooth at a local Ace Hardware store) a chain, $10 to get it sharpened is quite a bit. Especially when others charge $5, and in my case, I do my neighbors chains for free. Then there are stores with poorly (or not at all) trained employees that burn the cutters from negligence.
I might have to get one but with a diamond wheel being really hard why don't they burn the cutters. Steve
CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
They are remove material faster and easier, meaning less time to build up heat. You can burn them but not as easy as a standard stone wheel. The big plus is never having to reshape the wheel and staying the same size.
TonyM
ArboristSite Guru
Regular grinding wheels have a tendancy to load up, especially when trying to take light cuts. The pores fill with smeared metal. Then they will not cut freely and will create friction and heat. Coolant and frequent dressing of the wheel help keep the sharp edges of the abrasive exposed. Diamond wheels do not do this nearly as much.
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
Both of these! I only hand file, period. I dont cut enough to justify a grinder, and hand-filing for me is relaxing. I file chains more often than most im sure, goes quickly when each tooth onky needs a swipe or two to be back to "perfect"
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
And as philbert i think said above, its the operator that sharpens, not the tool. We have a pretty darn good mechanic at work, but he knows 0 about grinding chains. He uses a 511a and consistenly grinds chains that are absolutely worthless.
cus_deluxe
Commie Satan turd
Once or twice a year ill get $10 loops of 72lgx from leftcoastsupplies, i cant fathom paying $10 to have one sharpened.
Woodblocker55
ArboristSite Operative
Just a heads up 15-20 cord per chain is my norm but I do get loads of oak with sand blasted in the wood to it's a Wisconsin oak issue in my location. You see sparks at times . So I'm not cutting in perfect wood either.
The wheels that come with the . Green yellow black sharpeners work fine you just need to dress the wheel every chain . I have never wore out a grinding wheel yet. Since 2011 diamond wheel will be someday down the road.
If you want total perfection when sharpening get a indicator
Check chain location repeatable before clamping chain in vise location . I have done this I get it within .002 meaning if you measured between cutting edges all around chain it's within .002
And I feel this increases as chain links get wore . There's some sharpening cad for the forum [emoji106]
Woodblocker55
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The wheels that come with the . Green yellow black sharpeners work fine you just need to dress the wheel every chain . I have never wore out a grinding wheel yet. Since 2011 diamond wheel will be someday down the road.
If you want total perfection when sharpening get a indicator
Check chain location repeatable before clamping chain in vise location . I have done this I get it within .002 meaning if you measured between cutting edges all around chain it's within .002
And I feel this increases as chain links get wore . There's some sharpening cad for the forum [emoji106]
Woodblocker55
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Then you do not sharpen very much....
Woodblocker55
ArboristSite Operative
No I'm only a happy home owner .
Not a local chain sharpener. 15 cord a year. That's it . What do I know.. [emoji106]
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Not a local chain sharpener. 15 cord a year. That's it . What do I know.. [emoji106]
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So you get 15-20 cord per chain? Do you run several chains at the same time?
Woodblocker55
ArboristSite Operative
One person one chain one saw . It's not that complicated. Gets dull you touch it up. [emoji106] Sure most chain sellers don't like to hear just how long a chain can really last. Only been doing it for 30 years . [emoji106] Wait longer then that dam I'm getting old lol
Woodblocker55
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Woodblocker55
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CoreyB
Addicted to ArboristSite
Wow I usually have 3 chains per bar. At least 2 bars per saw and at least 2 Saws. Man I feel all ocd now. But I have yet to ever had to stop because of equipment related. Only fuel and oil a couple times.
Woodblocker55
ArboristSite Operative
I'm not running all over to get the wood have it hauled in mostly. So bench sharpeners always handy. When we use to run around and get wood always had back up chains. I think wood type and location. Have alot to do with chain wear I cut all oak . Maybe that's why. And I do hit barbwire and steel junk in logs but touch up fixes it. But ya local chain seller shakes his head when I show up only buy one chain every 1-2 years .He asks how much wood you cutting lol. I got crazy this year and went to .404 on big saw I got 2 chains full and full skip ! But most what I cut is under 16 inch that's all the same saw.
Woodblocker55
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Woodblocker55
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The CBN wheels are worth their asking price. I have one round for 3/8 and one cut for square grinding which has two flat sides.
I've also got a Stihl diamond wheel for doing carbide chains but don't use it on soft metal chains as it loads up more easily than the CBN wheels. I don't think I've ever had a CBN load up.
I'm not putting down the practice of cleaning up chains before sharpening but it is something I never do. I get a certain joy out of putting a freshly sharpened dirty chain in the wood and watching it clean itself up as it cuts. Wood chip blasting if you will.
I've also got a Stihl diamond wheel for doing carbide chains but don't use it on soft metal chains as it loads up more easily than the CBN wheels. I don't think I've ever had a CBN load up.
I'm not putting down the practice of cleaning up chains before sharpening but it is something I never do. I get a certain joy out of putting a freshly sharpened dirty chain in the wood and watching it clean itself up as it cuts. Wood chip blasting if you will.
