Should I keep 036 pro

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Ohio8484

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I took a gamble and bought an 036 pro model off eBay. I paid 250 shipped for the powerhead only. I'm assuming it's been rebuilt since it has a black cylinder head which I was unaware of. Compression was at 135. When I put a couple drops of oil in the cylinder I got 145. I haven't ran the saw but wanted some feedback first. It also has a cracked chain brake guard I'll have to replace.

Seller said they would refund me 75 if I wanted to keep it or I could send back.

http://m.ebay.com/itm/Used-Good-Running-Stihl-036-Pro-Chainsaw-/152606860387?txnId=1582856600005
 
If it was misrepresented i would immediately ask for your money back. if the seller resists, open a case w ebay. Some sellers just dont know what they're selling, some will intentionally misrepresent something to get it sold.
Can u post a link to the ad?
 
If the price was right I'd keep it, they are nice saws. Problem is an oem topend isn't cheap, it's really easy to get more in it than its worth. I've sold a couple of them from $350-400 in excellent condition. They are one of my favorites.
 
The guy probably didn't even know what he was selling, but that's not your problem. He also never said one way or another if it was oem, so not sure how eBay looks at that.
 
I would take the 75 cash back and keep the saw for 175.00. Runner till she blows.
 
I have several Stihl chainsaws with AM pistons and cylinders and haven't had a problem with them cutting firewood and doing smaller jobs. If I was a logger I might want OEM but just remember that the OEM stuff breaks also, that's usually the reason they were replaced..Many of the P/C kits I've replaced were because the owner turned the "H" screw in too far trying to get 20000 rpms out of his 066 plus running it with 60:1 fuel ratio.
 
I have several Stihl chainsaws with AM pistons and cylinders and haven't had a problem with them cutting firewood and doing smaller jobs. If I was a logger I might want OEM but just remember that the OEM stuff breaks also, that's usually the reason they were replaced..Many of the P/C kits I've replaced were because the owner turned the "H" screw in too far trying to get 20000 rpms out of his 066 plus running it with 60:1 fuel ratio.

This is a good point. When I run saws in super hot weather, I notice they will stop running after a while. I set it down and grab another, and keep going, as my body seems to have no problem with heat failure. The saws seem fine afterward. WHat I do is set the max rpm at 500 below what it says in the manual, and use only premium gas with no alcohol, and Stihl Ultra synthetic oil. I understand not everyone does this....... :crazy2: A couple of my saws are about 30 years old, and are stihl going strong. In the future, you might pick up an 036, then put out feelers for a set of OEM rings and/or piston with rings, just to keep them on hand just in case. This series of saw is a great one, imo.
 
The 034/036 I own originally was an 034 and I put in an 036 AM kit in it and so far it does pretty well. If I sold it I would make sure the buyer would know what he is getting although it doesn't matter to me as long as it works but some are a lot more particular with their saws than I am. I guess it depends on whether you're a collector or wood cutter.
 
This is a good point. When I run saws in super hot weather, I notice they will stop running after a while. I set it down and grab another, and keep going, as my body seems to have no problem with heat failure. The saws seem fine afterward. WHat I do is set the max rpm at 500 below what it says in the manual, and use only premium gas with no alcohol, and Stihl Ultra synthetic oil. I understand not everyone does this....... :crazy2: A couple of my saws are about 30 years old, and are stihl going strong. In the future, you might pick up an 036, then put out feelers for a set of OEM rings and/or piston with rings, just to keep them on hand just in case. This series of saw is a great one, imo.

For older saws you keep spare pistons are a good idea. I have multiple 026 036 038M and I have either OEM A/B piston assy or P/C assy in hand, along with gasket/seal sets. Through in some rubber and carb kits too.
 
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