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Silvey Razursharp 2 trade for saw/saws

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here's what my cutters look like set up like this

View attachment 312281View attachment 312282



the blue and salmon wheels take a lot lighter touch to not overheat the cutter ,i use the grey wheel ,it needs re dressed more ,but more forgiving ,especially on a rocked or dirt hit chain ,i make round cutters square with the grey also
 
If there's a lot of slop in it get the roller bearing slide setup from srcarr. It does make each side perfectly matched.
 
Thanks...with this x-tra help I may be able to keep the thing... My cutters look the same except my top plate is about 35*. Im looking to be at about 15-20. Thanks for the help.
 
Slide the whole assembly away from the disc and that will fix it. Why don't you like the 35 degree angle? I usually run about 30 on my work chains.
 
Thanks...with this x-tra help I may be able to keep the thing... My cutters look the same except my top plate is about 35*. Im looking to be at about 15-20. Thanks for the help.

took me a while to get mine dialed in ,lot of trial end error ,my top is in the 15-20 degrees set up like this closer to 20 ,you wont be able to make the cutters look like off the roll ,the factory sharpens them before chain is put together if i'm correct ,make sure get the stops adjusted also when grinding ,so all teeth come out the same size ,the little disks that the chain sits in ,one side is .050 ,the other is .063 ,loosten the bolt and rotate 180 degrees if too loose or tight in the drivers ,also to get the 15-20 top plate let the stops do the work ,the cutter will float up a little on the stone ,don't pull down on the front of the chain trying to keep it tight to the guide ,does your wheel look similar to the side shot i posted for angles ?
 
View attachment 312269

Looking to trade my silvey RS 2 that works great. (but it drives me crazy) for Stihl or Dolmar pro saw or saws. Comes with blue ceramic and 2 other useable wheels, light and stand.

I hear all them Silveys are junk....i got a 009 ill trade er give ya straight up fer it. Dont listen to all these guys !!!!!! Heck i might even throw in a 511a for good measure....:msp_biggrin::jester:
 
I think I got it. Im at work now so I cant post pics of my cutters. All I need to do is try them out in some wood...Thanks for the help guys. The setup is ultra touchy but once set it's not bad. I even square ground my pinky knuckle. To anyone looking sorry it's not up for trade anymore
 
I think I got it. Im at work now so I cant post pics of my cutters. All I need to do is try them out in some wood...Thanks for the help guys. The setup is ultra touchy but once set it's not bad. I even square ground my pinky knuckle. To anyone looking sorry it's not up for trade anymore

if have a grey stone ,that may be easier to learn with :cheers:
 
I have a blue and 2 greys. I havn't discolored any teeth yet. I just take my time. Im really hoping the square chain cuts fast enough to justify the switch over from round.

Dang it didnt you see my post !!!!

Silvey...bad
Square ground....bad
009L. ....awesome gooder est saw ever. :hmm3grin2orange:



Hmmm Tanto me say "good trade !!!"
 
I have a blue and 2 greys. I havn't discolored any teeth yet. I just take my time. Im really hoping the square chain cuts fast enough to justify the switch over from round.

It will but might take some playing with the angles to get it. You can make it stay sharp longer or cut real fast. It just depends on what you want out of the chain.
 
It will but might take some playing with the angles to get it. You can make it stay sharp longer or cut real fast. It just depends on what you want out of the chain.

I don't have any beaks on my cutters and I have just a slight hook. How much does the top plate angle effect speed/ durability. I'm thinking more angle = faster but less durability?
 
You shouldn't get any hook if you're talking about on the top plate. A little side beak is better than being too high. I run about a 30 degree top plate for all cutting. I like when it feeds in with no added pressure. I'll try to dig some pictures up for you. It may get more response if you start a thread in the chainsaw section.
 
You shouldn't get any hook if you're talking about on the top plate. A little side beak is better than being too high. I run about a 30 degree top plate for all cutting. I like when it feeds in with no added pressure. I'll try to dig some pictures up for you. It may get more response if you start a thread in the chainsaw section.

By hook i mean the upright portion of the "L" is leaning forward if you look at the tooth from the outside. Looking from the inside I have the grind angle in perfect alignment with the "point" on the cutter. The point is sharp enough to be "grabby" on your finger and seems like it would be no problem to cut yourself on it. What makes the square grind faster than round? I'll start a new thread when I can post a picture of my chain. Thanks for your help.
 
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