Simple addition to DRT system

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Iustinian

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For years we've been using a simple tool in our climbing system which makes ascending easier. It's not a new idea, imo, but it is much simpler than the tools other people have designed to eliminate the slack generated when ascending on a system using eye to eye's. It takes about $10 worth of materials and about 15 minutes to make one of these things if you are skilled at splicing. You could use tenex (which is very very very easy to splice, but I personally dont like using tenex in any part of a climbing system because it picks so easily -- plus it doesnt stand up under friction, but in this application that is irrelevant since this tool should not ever see any friction, just saying)

The tool is very very simple -- a short peice of velocity with a ring spliced into one end, and an eye splice on the other end for clipping a carabiner through. It can be used in a system which incorporates either the hitch climber pulley OR any other micro pulley like the older ones from cmi and isc.

To secure the friction hitch close to the climber, we've used any carabiner to clip it in close. Personally, I prefer to flip in with a work positioning lanyard and remove it from my system when I'm done ascending.

[video=youtube_share;jUA12hLIz1c]http://youtu.be/jUA12hLIz1c[/video]
 
Securing the knot close to the climber

We added this video to demonstrate how easy it is to secure my knot close when I am done ascending. You really couldn't see that in the first video up in the tree.

[video=youtube_share;MWzZPTRxT5U]http://youtu.be/MWzZPTRxT5U[/video]
 
Well thats a simple and great idea... but if I switched to that I would not have slack tending to use as an excuse to catch my breath. After all I am old and fat.
 
For years we've been using a simple tool in our climbing system which makes ascending easier. It's not a new idea, imo, but it is much simpler than the tools other people have designed to eliminate the slack generated when ascending on a system using eye to eye's. It takes about $10 worth of materials and about 15 minutes to make one of these things if you are skilled at splicing. You could use tenex (which is very very very easy to splice, but I personally dont like using tenex in any part of a climbing system because it picks so easily -- plus it doesnt stand up under friction, but in this application that is irrelevant since this tool should not ever see any friction, just saying)

The tool is very very simple -- a short peice of velocity with a ring spliced into one end, and an eye splice on the other end for clipping a carabiner through. It can be used in a system which incorporates either the hitch climber pulley OR any other micro pulley like the older ones from cmi and isc.

To secure the friction hitch close to the climber, we've used any carabiner to clip it in close. Personally, I prefer to flip in with a work positioning lanyard and remove it from my system when I'm done ascending.

[video=youtube_share;jUA12hLIz1c]http://youtu.be/jUA12hLIz1c[/video]

Cool, what length velocity from eye to eye are you using?
 
Cool. I just use a webbing strap.

Thats a simple idea too which I used to use until all the changes in ANSI standards requiring a cinching termination for all anchored points - even girth hitched tho, i never really felt that comfortable doing it that way. It works tho - i have a friend who used an eye 2 eye upside down tied with a vt on the other side of his line that he clipped into that did the same thing.
 
Cool, what length velocity from eye to eye are you using?

Ill have to check - i remember the first one i made was the length of my arms reach...didnt work bc u have to.deduct the length that your carabiners and knot takes up bc it would be out of your reach.

I have a shorter climber (with shorter arms than mine) so i had to make a shorter one for him but what we have been doing is deducting 12" from our reach and that has been about right.
 
Looks like a solution to a problem that I have been having. I climb on a double end spliced climbing line and feed the standing end through the swivel on my bridge and up to my hitch climber pulley. This allows the line to self tend and me to easily adjust the length of reach in my system, but when in tree and I've shortened for limb walking the the lashed area of the splice runs inside the swivel. I worry about it causing excessive wear and possibly jamming, more the former as the latter hasn't happened in two years of using this climbing system. I'll try setting up like you are in the video, I don't think it will be a big adjustment.
 
Looks like a solution to a problem that I have been having. I climb on a double end spliced climbing line and feed the standing end through the swivel on my bridge and up to my hitch climber pulley. This allows the line to self tend and me to easily adjust the length of reach in my system, but when in tree and I've shortened for limb walking the the lashed area of the splice runs inside the swivel. I worry about it causing excessive wear and possibly jamming, more the former as the latter hasn't happened in two years of using this climbing system. I'll try setting up like you are in the video, I don't think it will be a big adjustment.

i used to do that too - used a small loop of cord to hold things in place - i remember not liking it for the same reason u said, but its also a bit more time consuming to.redirect too - been awhile since i have done that.
 
I do much the same thing, but with only one carabiner, and keep the length of the leash at about 18". It's long enough that I still get a good pull, but short enough that I can reach up and operate the hitch without needing to mess with the leash. I can't recall ever doing a climb where I ascended all the way to the top, then descended all the way to the bottom. Tree work is up and down, so making the leash a length that is usable for both up and down makes it a lot more usable. That way I never need to change. It just stays on there the whole time. If you've got shorter arms you might need to make it 16", but it depends on your saddle/hitch combination.

Shaun
 
I just figured out this method a few days ago and was searching the site to see if someone else had already figured it out. Funny that it's another Iowan just a few miles away! I guess I'm not the genius I thought I was.

I'm wondering if the friction of the knot, in my case a Blakes, will make ascents more tiring when added to the friction of the rope in the tree. Sometimes the Blake gets a bit tight which might be a good reason to switch to the hitchclimber pulley and eye to eye.

MM
 
Ive incorporated that system as well, and working out the distances still to get my arms length just right. One thing is that for others that may not know you have to use a rope that is rated for single use were some are rated for doubling when used for that purpose. When I switch over I keep everything there, and can switch back to ascend quickly back and forth. another set up I use when not using a pulley is to have a long eye and eye as my main climbing knot, and just under it a shorter eye and eye tied to the other eye and eye to achieve the same thing less the pulley. Nice to see others thinking and using the tools. ( the brain )! Climb safe!
 
Thats a simple idea too which I used to use until all the changes in ANSI standards requiring a cinching termination for all anchored points - even girth hitched tho, i never really felt that comfortable doing it that way. It works tho - i have a friend who used an eye 2 eye upside down tied with a vt on the other side of his line that he clipped into that did the same thing.

I would only do it starting at the bottom of the tree and hauling to the top then taking it off and not using it while working. A straight run keeping everything taught, no girth hitch or anything.

The thing that bugs me with using slack tending pulleys is that it seems they get in the way when you want to descend.
 

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