Smoky HotPlast

[simanco]

Hello all,

Dad's HotBlast 1557 likes to let smoke out the feed door whenever we open it.

Even when we open the ash door first and let the draft kick up, there is still some smoke coming out. Dad assures me that "it didn't used to do that!"

He tells me that the flues "should be" clean. Not sure what that means, exactly.

The flue exits out the back of the furnace with one 90 degree elbow then heads straight up through the roof. There's no flue damper.

The furnace is in a little shack/lean-to on the back of the trailer. The flue is well above the roof-line, and being in the shack, is off-set from the ridge anyway. The only nearby trees are shorter than the house, much less over-hanging.

So, next time the fire is down I think we should grab the sweep and hit the flue. But, what else should we check/do?

This is a pretty big problem for us. Mom has some breathing issues and dad is just refusing to do anything about a return-air setup, so the thing will pull smoke into the house when it does this.

Any and all ideas would be appreciated!

Thank you,
Jim

 

[pook]

sounds like the flue aint hot enuff?

 

[CrappieKeith]

Hello all,

Dad's HotBlast 1557 likes to let smoke out the feed door whenever we open it.

Even when we open the ash door first and let the draft kick up, there is still some smoke coming out. Dad assures me that "it didn't used to do that!"

He tells me that the flues "should be" clean. Not sure what that means, exactly.

The flue exits out the back of the furnace with one 90 degree elbow then heads straight up through the roof. There's no flue damper.

The furnace is in a little shack/lean-to on the back of the trailer. The flue is well above the roof-line, and being in the shack, is off-set from the ridge anyway. The only nearby trees are shorter than the house, much less over-hanging.

So, next time the fire is down I think we should grab the sweep and hit the flue. But, what else should we check/do?

This is a pretty big problem for us. Mom has some breathing issues and dad is just refusing to do anything about a return-air setup, so the thing will pull smoke into the house when it does this.

Any and all ideas would be appreciated!

Thank you,
Jim

You are having a drafting issue. Wood moisture can be too great also. Make sure everything is clean...no blockage and the wood is seasoned...20% moisture or under.
It might be plasible that the flue is not tall enough.You may need a drafting cap.

 

[savageactor7]

You sure the chimney is clear with no blockages?

I've seen stoves in hearth shops where they have a huge cut out of the flue pipe and you can actually see the smoke flow past into an unobstructed chimney.

I'd shut down asap if it were us with that problem.

 

[Wife'nHubby]

Let me preface my answer by saying I know nothing about a wood furnace:

I do know how my Jotul Oslo wood stove runs and the specs for my stove. My manual specifically states two 45's are better than one 90 = better draft. Check with your manufacturer to see if they recommend the same.

Also, I agree with burning wood that is less the 20% moisture. Wood should be cut/stacked/split and stored off the ground for at least 12 months before burning. Oak can take around 2 yrs. to season properly. Stacks should be covered, top only, in the winter or extremely wet weather seasons.

And: Sounds like pops should halt any further burning and get that chimney cleaned/inspected a.s.a.p.

Shari

 

[Haywire Haywood]

My stove developed the same problem. The problem was a clogged spark screen in the flue cap. Hit that with a brush a couple times and all was wonderful again.

Ian

 

[Country-at-<3]

Cant get good burn...and door puffs smoke.

I am going crazy. We just installed the Hotblast 1557M, and are trying to burn it now, in order that we can get adjusted to knowing how to burn it, and be ready for when the real cold weather comes. First we had trouble with the door puffing smoke... we'd get it burning real good, watch it for a few minutes, and then head back upstairs, only to find the house was filling with smoke about a half hour later. Run back downstairs to a smoke-filled basement and see smoke going *puff* (3 seconds go by) *puff* (3 more seconds go by) *puff*, etc. So we came on here and read that most people dont use the door at all and just use the one in the ash door. Now, we cant get the fire to burn hot, steadily. It gets hot, and no matter what setting I put the ash door knob to, it just dies down. I really want to like this stove.... But, I HATE that I cant get it to burn like my old woodstove, and I HATE the size of the door! :msp_angry: And that smoke curtain is a pain! We tried taking it off, as we also saw where someone posted on here that they took theirs off... but smoke just billows out when we open the door. Why does this stove have such an issue with smoking? All pipes are new... We have only burned a handful of times...Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[laynes69]

What you are experiencing is low draft. This time of year draft will be weak. If your puffing, it's a buildup of gas or smoke then it ignites. When this happens it pressurizes the firebox and blows smoke out of the intakes. Could you describe your setup? Chimney size, flue length, any offsets or elbows? Also is your wood seasoned? We heated with a furnace like that for years.

 

[blades]

In a nut shell you have a negative pressure problem in the furnace room, couple that with a possible cold flue =back drafting. You need an outside air line brought in to the furnace room in close proximity to the furnace intake to supply a positive or at least netural air pressure in there. If the flue pipe is not an insulated type it is going to be a pia to get and keep the proper draft flowing.

 

[Country-at-<3]

View attachment 203774
Does the low draft also cause the buildup of gas or smoke? We have 6" pipe. Here is a pic... Hope this helps. He set up the stove pipe like this so we can run the cold air return up to the 1st floor level, without them getting in the way of eachother.

 

[Country-at-<3]

View attachment 203774
Does the low draft also cause the buildup of gas or smoke? We have 6" pipe. Here is a pic... Hope this helps. He set up the stove pipe like this so we can run the cold air return up to the 1st floor level, without them getting in the way of eachother.

Would also like to add that we had a hard time getting our wood delivered, so no, its not seasoned, unfortunately.

 

[laynes69]

I would remove the first 90 elbow and run the flue pipe at an angle into the thimble. Unseasoned wood won't allow for a hot fire. How tall is the chimney, what type? If it continues puffing, you should open the damper some to allow for more combustion air. Your current flue pipe setup will cause problems. I believe every 90 elbow is like a 4 or 5 foot reduction in chimney height. Like blade said it's possible things are too tight, crack open a window near by and see if that helps.

 

[Country-at-<3]

We have Insulated Chimney Pipe... about 24 feet tall. Thanks so much for your help.. we will take your advice, and will let you know how it turns out!

 

[johnnylabguy]

Just wanted to chime in that I agree with laynes about taking out that middle 90 elbow. That should help out. But first and foremost get that wood dried out or find some more seasoned wood and you will be in much better shape. Good Luck and let us know how it works out for you. I just lit the first fire of the year tonight in my 1557 and it feels good to have the house at 74 again!

 

[Country-at-<3]

My wife posted the previous posts trying to help but let me add a couple things.

We are using the wood furnace as a stand alone unit. The chimney is 18' Metobestos, 8" dia. The flue pipe inside is 6". I put the 3rd elbow in trying to make it where I wouldnt have to put an offset in the cold air return. Just wanted to come out the back and go straight up. I havent installed the cold air return yet (Just got the wood,busy cutting and splitting), just the filter box that came with it and a filter. So it will be no problem undoing the flue pipe and moving the stove over and eliminate one 90 deg elbow. I do have a basement window opened about 2", this window is about 5-6' away from the furnace and is at ceiling height. Cant do much at this point about the season wood.

Should I open the window alittle more? Really dont want to add any cold air supply (pipe) if I dont have to. Should eliminating one 90 deg elbow help out alot? I wont angle it, Ill just move the stove over and go out (which should be better than angling it). I will have to come out the stove and 90 up about 20" the 90 out the base wall. Please let me know what you think now that we added some more information lol

 

[laynes69]

If the basement is tight and the cold air isn't hooked in to the furnace then the blower may compete for air. If there is a door leading into the basement from the upstairs open it. Wood that's not seasoned won't help the situation, just keep an eye on the chimney and clean as needed.

 

[Country-at-<3]

Ok fair enough, Thanks so much for the help.

 

[zogger]

further drying

Ok fair enough, Thanks so much for the help.

If you are stuck with green wood, it just isn't going to work no matter how much furnace rearranging you do.

I'd try to stay a few weeks ahead on what you have stored down in the basement by the furnace, and re split it all one more time. Yes, that sucks but this is going on winter heating season, you ain't got time to dither about it.

Now you know, get two or three years ahead in your wood stash. Go scrounge yourself if you can't get it delivered.

As you burn, add more down there, follow a pattern, oldest most seasoned first to burn. Take advantage of the heat from the furnace and try to get a little more moisture out. Get that last little bit of moisture out before you try to burn it, you just can't burn green wood in something that isn't designed to do that, it won't work, no draft, smoke your house out, no heat, etc..all not good..

There's some point where the green wood might burn some, but it is using all the heat energy just to further finish drying itself out. You'll get about no heat, and smoke and creosote like crazy.

Can you go scrounge *anything* real dry to help the greenwood burn in the furnace? Old pallets, real dry pine, anything?

Re splitting it will help, stacking it close to the furnace will help, throwing in any piece of real dry wood, then your green wood on top will help.

I have had to move into a place *three* times now in the fall with no dry wood, it just sucks. You can do it, following what I said.
then get on the stick and get two years in advance, that will always give you a cushion anyway if it is a severe winter and you burn more than anticipated.

 

[Haywire Haywood]

Amen to that bruddah. Go get you some pallets and dice them up. Get a good roaring fire going with that and then add your green wood.


Ian

 

[wndwlkr]

Inside your stove should be 2 removable steel plates up above the fire just lift up the first one and move it about 3 or 4 inches toward the door, then move the back one up to that one and try that. if that does'nt work , take the first one out. that will make the smoke stop traveling toward the door when you open it. give it plenty of air from the ash door. good luck with the green wood, ugh.