So now what ?

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Stand back from the tree and make sure it's still solid enough to stay standing, clean everything away so you have a clear getaway from all around the tree just incase it goes where you don't plan. Then bore cut into the center of the existing backcut deep enough to get a wedge started. Beat that wedge in until it's buried. When you get enough space hammer in a wedge on each side of the buried one. Should open up enough to finish your back cut after you make sure it's going to go the way you had intended.
PS, when you are done, stand back and see what you did wrong, don't do that again. The most important thing to do when you do something wrong is to figure out what you did wrong and learn from it. Otherwise your next wrong move might be your last wrong move.
 
Not really enough info

BUT, put a line in the tree(bean flip, bow and arrow, big shot) drag a rope up the tree, followed by a cable ran thru a snatch block and pull that thing over. I have never left a tree cut off but still standing. Not putting it on the ground would be irresponsible.

I would like to cut a hole for a jack and jack it over, just for s&g, have never done that!
A small extra kerf to start a wedge would not be nearly as dangerous as the jack, I don't think there is much chance of a barber chair.

A new cut to turn the back cut into a notch, wedging as soon as possible, stopping about 2" from meeting the back cut, then put a couple of splitting wedges vertically, one on each side just in front of the hinge to pop the new notch out, sounds like fun and not too dangerous.

Pushing with equipment sounds like just to much danger for me.
 
Hey thanks everyone for your replies. I am familiar with the concept of wedging and think trying to get one started woud be the way to go. As far as I know the tree is not hung up on another tree.What I do know is sometimes you have to stop,step back, and rethink things to make a good, safe decision. Felling trees can be dangerous and if you are doing it long enough you will get yourself into some tricky situations you just have to be smart and safe enough to get out of them. Stay safe everyone!:):)
 
Safety is the first concern. The wood around you and what you have to work with and how much experience falling trees you have are probably the most important things to consider here. There's two things come to my mind to get it down without ropes or a dozer to push it over. What I would try to do because it's safer is to find another tree that is large enough to drop on the tree that won't fall. Kind of like a domino reaction. But it has to be big enough and have enough room to fall to make enough momentum to push the first tree over or you end up with 2 stuck trees. If you have access to a wedge then here's what I might try if I had no other options. Make a small cut just deep enough to start a wedge in the original backcut and hammer it in. If you don't have much time behind a saw then I would also agree to the comments of leaving the tree alone and wait till the next day as long as there is no chance that someone will be going by it.
 
When I started felling for firewood I had a couple of trees around that size sit back on the bar. Fortunately, I was able to get wedges in, free the bar and topple the tree. It's a scary situation I would not wish to repeat.

BUT, put a line in the tree(bean flip, bow and arrow, big shot) drag a rope up the tree, followed by a cable ran thru a snatch block and pull that thing over...

This would be my suggestion as well. If you can't get a tractor or truck to the site, perhaps a snatch block followed by a comealong chained to an adjacent tree in the escape route would serve. The snatch or pulley block should be as close to the line of face cut as possible, chained to a sturdy tree or stump. With a good facecut, it won't take a lot of pulling to get the tree to fall where you originally aimed it.

I don't know how much back cut you had before the pinch but I'm gonna presume that the above method will open it enough to reach if you have to cut it deeper.
 
If you are concerned of a barberchair, wrap a chain and binder around the circumferance of the tree about a foot above the back cut. That should keep it together.
 
Well everyone Mother Nature took care of business.And by the way the tree fell in the direction it was originally intended. I properly used wedge in the beginning would have done the trick. I did explain this to my friend. Thanks for all your responses.
 
Given the fact that it sat back tells me that is the direction it wanted to go to start with. Chances are now that it wants to fall that direction even more so, not much chance of changing that now by simply cutting and wedging it back over. To change the direction you will need the aid of something pushing or pulling. I have had a few of these myself, cutting on steep slopes uphill from my truck and wanting to fall the tree down the hill when it wants to go up. A comealong attached with a cable, run it around a tree the direction you want it to fall and then hooked to a tree in the direction it is now leaning. This puts you behind where you are wanting it to fall rather than straight pulling it towards yourself. Other than that, new face cut on the opposite side of the tree that you initially faced about 6" above the first face cut. Of course this is without seeing exactly what you are dealing with.
 
Given the fact that it sat back tells me that is the direction it wanted to go to start with. Chances are now that it wants to fall that direction even more so, not much chance of changing that now by simply cutting and wedging it back over. To change the direction you will need the aid of something pushing or pulling. I have had a few of these myself, cutting on steep slopes uphill from my truck and wanting to fall the tree down the hill when it wants to go up. A comealong attached with a cable, run it around a tree the direction you want it to fall and then hooked to a tree in the direction it is now leaning. This puts you behind where you are wanting it to fall rather than straight pulling it towards yourself. Other than that, new face cut on the opposite side of the tree that you initially faced about 6" above the first face cut. Of course this is without seeing exactly what you are dealing with.

OP has said tree is down on ground in the intended original direction.
 
I had a tree do the same this spring. was only 18 through . i was stuck with a solution. setting there perfect like it had never been cut at all. I have dropped countless trees and seldom have an issue but this one had to go the way i wanted it no other way was an option. so this is what i did. Find a pole. 20 feet long or so. sounds stupid but an antenna pole works great.... i know cause its what i used. get is as high up was u can and push to the notch. have a person ready to wedge it...... this worked for me without a hitch. but as i did. please tell everyone there..... if i say get... follow me and dont stop til i do. it worked for me......
hope it works out for you.
 
I had a tree do the same this spring. was only 18 through . i was stuck with a solution. setting there perfect like it had never been cut at all. I have dropped countless trees and seldom have an issue but this one had to go the way i wanted it no other way was an option. so this is what i did. Find a pole. 20 feet long or so. sounds stupid but an antenna pole works great.... i know cause its what i used. get is as high up was u can and push to the notch. have a person ready to wedge it...... this worked for me without a hitch. but as i did. please tell everyone there..... if i say get... follow me and dont stop til i do. it worked for me......
hope it works out for you.
lol well behind times i guess. i see it is down. good job
 
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