So what's the current Two stroke oil favorite for

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I prefer mixing at 32:1 with VP Synthetic 2t oil, it has a super flash point so there is less chance of carbon built, Amsoil Dominator and Maxima K2 have a super low flash point as well. Have a friend that's a professional faller use Amsoil Dominator at 32:1 and his piston from his 500i had a carbon spot smaller than a .25 on his piston.
 
I prefer mixing at 32:1 with VP Synthetic 2t oil, it has a super flash point so there is less chance of carbon built, Amsoil Dominator and Maxima K2 have a super low flash point as well. Have a friend that's a professional faller use Amsoil Dominator at 32:1 and his piston from his 500i had a carbon spot smaller than a .25 on his piston.
Flash point doesn't tell you what you think ot does.
 
I was told by the techs at Husqvarna to not use a marine based oil in saws. Can't remember why he said it wasn't good for them tho.
That's because a boat's engine is cooled by 40°F- 90°F water at all times. About as cool a running engine as there is. An air cooled 2-stroke covered in sawdust and bar oil with plugged up airflow ports is about as hot as you can get - 2 polar opposites. You need an extreme heat oil for that, vs, a low heat oil that dissipates / disappears in water as much as possible.
 
tree monkey put a video up a while back showing a piston w/500 hours on it running the schaeffers tcw3 boat oil @ 32-1, piston was done and its underside was burnt because its not formulated for the heat in a saw...even tho it was worn out the piston was pretty clean and the cylinder ports were too with only a lil carbon on the cylinder combustion chamber roof. The sad part is the correct oil from schaeffer is 2x as expensive.
 
Holy cow, some of these comments are hard to read. Proofreading is a thing.
Anyway, at home I use YamaLube R 40:1 w/ super unleaded. At work I use Stihl Ultra 50:1 w/ regular ethanol free. I only use the Ultra to avoid any warranty arguments with the Stihl dealer on their silly 4mix engines.
 
Holy cow, some of these comments are hard to read. Proofreading is a thing.
Anyway, at home I use YamaLube R 40:1 w/ super unleaded. At work I use Stihl Ultra 50:1 w/ regular ethanol free. I only use the Ultra to avoid any warranty arguments with the Stihl dealer on their silly 4mix engines.
Yes, too many use poor English. A common mistake is to use an apostrophe for a plural word, which actually makes it possessive. (Example: He has 3 saw's. It should be "saws". Anyway, I plan on using Amsoil at 50 or 60:1 with my MS500i. I bought the Stihl saber oil with the saw to get the longer warranty, but based on what I have read both on this forum and in test reports, I don't plan to ever use it. Camo someone come up with any good use of Saber oil besides as a 2-cycle oil?
 
I was told by the techs at Husqvarna to not use a marine based oil in saws. Can't remember why he said it wasn't good for them tho.
Pretty sure that the issue is at what temperature the oil changes from LUBE to GOOO... air cooled engine runs HOTTER than water cooled. Marine oil designed to have less impact on water contamination
 
tree monkey put a video up a while back showing a piston w/500 hours on it running the schaeffers tcw3 boat oil @ 32-1, piston was done and its underside was burnt because its not formulated for the heat in a saw...even tho it was worn out the piston was pretty clean and the cylinder ports were too with only a lil carbon on the cylinder combustion chamber roof. The sad part is the correct oil from schaeffer is 2x as expensive.
One thing to consider. Alot of the pictures you see guys post of perfectly clean internals is because they are running pig rich and or they are cutting small wood where the saw never gets real hot. The also never show the muffler full of unburnt oil and gas..
It's normal for carbon to be present on the piston. If it's clean that means it's running very cool. Even four stroke pistons are covered with carbon.
 
Recently I have bought several pieces of Redmax two cycle equipment.
This came in the box.
If you do not know enough about the subject just run an actual FD certified oil and you won't have oil problems. Do not run Ultra, it's garbage, do not run boat oil and don't run anything that says "meets and exceeds" as that is dishonest marketing and a statement simply untrue if it's not been tested by JASO.20230727_115127.jpg
 
tree monkey put a video up a while back showing a piston w/500 hours on it running the schaeffers tcw3 boat oil @ 32-1, piston was done and its underside was burnt because its not formulated for the heat in a saw...even tho it was worn out the piston was pretty clean and the cylinder ports were too with only a lil carbon on the cylinder combustion chamber roof. The sad part is the correct oil from schaeffer is 2x as expensive.
About 8 year's ago
Tree monkey showed us on another forum pics of very high hour saws on Schaeffer's 7000
That convinced me to try it I ran it 7 year's until prices nearly doubled on it.
No carbon build up at all the top ends looked great.
Trying castol go now I bought 6 quarts for basically the price of one quart of Schaeffer's.
 
I always get a chuckle out of people saying not to run marine 2 stroke oil in a chainsaw as that's all I run in my saws at 32:1 and have never had any issues. There's plenty of oil in the crankcase and the piston is cleaner than most. I even run it in my hotsaw turning more RPM's than 95% of the saws out there.

Is there better oil out there? Absolutely but will it make any real world difference probably not.
 
I use Caster 927 because it smells nice, oh apparently good for motor too

https://maximausa.com/products/castor-927
The castor bean comes from a shrub/small tree.

Castor oil was the preferred lubricant for rotary engines, such as the Gnome engine after that engine's widespread adoption for aviation in Europe in 1909. It was used almost universally in rotary-engined Allied aircraft in World War I. Germany had to make do with inferior ersatz oil for its rotary engines, which resulted in poor reliability.[43][44][45]

Ricinus communis can vary greatly in its growth habit and appearance. The variability has been increased by breeders who have selected a range of cultivars for leaf and flower colours, and for oil production. It is a fast-growing, suckering shrub that can reach the size of a small tree, around 12 metres (39 feet), but it is not cold hardy.
 
Back
Top