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I picked up a PM310 last fall, garage sale saw, $20. Agreed, it is a royal pain in the @ss to work on. I'm turning it from a top handle to a rear handle saw like the OP has. Parts being unobtanium is an understatement. Once finished, the saw will go to my grandfather who is looking for a smaller saw than his MS362. If it ever comes back to me, it will most likely be the beater that makes most beaters look like they are trophies. Once it dies, I'll strip off the carb and take the rest of it to the scrap yard.

Hey OP, if you do anything with the carb and throttle linkage, be careful. The throttle linkage is a half @ss design. It's basically a piece of piano wire inside of a piece of 12ga wire insulation. You will not find the assembly anywhere. I broke the wire and I am replacing it with a piece of bicycle shifter cable with the proper cable casing (which is how it should have been designed in the first place). If I remember to, I will take pictures.
 
Thank you all so much. So personal opinion is this a working saw or a paperweight to just be seen and not heard?
they are ideal for anything up to 12" rounds/limbing, a good strong engine in them, I believe they were based on a mcculloch top handle chasis/engine but I may stand corrected ? CD
 
I think you'll find it's either Chicom or built with Chi Com parts most NLA except donor saws My advice would be get your moneys worth out of it (run it till it coughs )& then flip out any good parts, as an aside if it was me I would adjust the chain in the "piccies" it looks a bit slack if it sheds it being plastic it will cause more damage
 
Doubtful as the bar studs on them are 1/4” diameter. [emoji20]

I smashed a MacCat to tiny pieces on my driveway after the sixth time the starter shelled out.
In a vice with a flat file I can make it work in 5 minutes as good as OEM. Poulan bars are easy to make fit a Husky. I just throw the rest of the saw away lol.
 
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