Specco leaking at control valve

[kodiakattack]

Started to get a leak from the end cap on control valve, it was a very cold day wondering if the thick oil did something to an oring on valve shaft? Was told to replace whole control assembly? But wondering if just be a oring ? Will take apart and look at oring and see if any scoring inside that may have damaged oring. I understand the way they work and can figure it out but not much experience on hydraulics. Any advice would be great...

 

[Streblerm]

http://www.energymfg.com/pdf/17498X.pdf

Here’s a link to a parts diagram if it’s an Energy brand valve. If it’s an off brand valve finding parts might be difficult. They aren’t terribly expensive <$100 if you have to replace the whole thing.

 

[kevin j]

The valve may have to disassemble in one direction but assemble in the other direction. Check the parts diagram carefully. I can’t open it right now.

The Prince valves at least have a U cup on one end, so it can’t be pushed across the open casting core opening against the lip direction. I can’t recall if in the body or the spool. If you have orings on both ends, that won’t be a problem.

Prince valves have a $20 seal kit, so I assume yours would have something available.
You can also search for a Parker seal distributor. About 90% chance the lip seals are Parker standard parts. Just measure them up.

The orings will be likely AS568- (dash number) standard o-ring sizes also. You can find the sizes on the inet. Material probably nitrile, and hardness 70 durometer most likely.

There are some tricks to not cutting or forcing the seals as you reinstall the spool, but it should be visually obvious.

 

[kodiakattack]

Ok thanks guys. I did price the whole assembly and it is $120 here at princess auto but I may try the seal kit first. I will disassemble first and look to see if I can find the issue . Streblerm thanks for the link. Kevin j thanks for info ! I saw the oring kits at princess auto when I was there will take parts there with me.
Cheers guys !!!!

 

[kodiakattack]

Well got it apart ! This is the only seal at the end it is leaking from so I assume I need this one replaced, I will try it before I replace whole unit for sure. Only one seal at other end by handle do it while I’m in there. Will try and get seals tonight and hope this is it ??

 

[kevin j]

there might be one seal on the spool, and another seal on the ID of the body itself so look on the far end inside the body
it’s done that way for assembly reasons

 

[kodiakattack]

there might be one seal on the spool, and another seal on the ID of the body itself so look on the far end inside the body
it’s done that way for assembly reasons

Yes you where right. The one I think is leaking is one on the spool. One by the handle sits in housing. Hope I get them tonight and don’t have to order.

 

[kevin j]

Ok, then if the one in the housing is a U cup not an oring, the spool has to go back in from that end. If they are both O-rings, then either direction, just oil and gentle push. Don’t spin as it can spiral slice the oring surface.

If you can’t get them at NAPA, try a bearing supply house. They will have them.

 

[kodiakattack]

Found seals at local hydraulic repair shop. Replaced them and back in business ! Thanks for the help guys!!!

 

[sb47]

I had that issue with my 22 ton as well. I took it apart but I couldn't get it back together. Mine had a ball bearing that went on top of a spring with a clip to hold it together. I never could get the spring and bearing pressed into place and put the cap back on at the same time.
I had to replace the hole valve assembly. $198.00 at TS

 

[kodiakattack]

That’s the detent on the end I just put ball bearing in the end first with the spring , than the 4 around the outside I put a little grease to hold them in place than slid the cap over top. Not sure if your set in was the same ?