Troy-Bilt 27 Ton Splitter

[JohnyHomeOwner]

Hello all. Looking for a little insight into an MTD splitter. I bought this splitter somewhere around circa 2010. The issue I'm having is a very slight, but annoying leak on the hydraulic control valve between the valve body and detent cover.

I've taken the valve apart an inspected the seals (o-rings) which appear to look okay. I would like to ensure I'm not missing any seals and replace the o-rings, which in my mind is the only possible reason I would be experiencing this subtle leak.

I've talked with an MTD tech over the phone. He pulled up my splitter by both model and serial number. He ensured me that my valve was made by "Energy" manufacturing. After a call to Energy they said they could not help me if they didn't make the valve (which is fair), and that if they made the control valve on my splitter it would have their makers mark. My control valve does not have "Energy" on the valve body... instead my valve displays "JD".

Is anyone familiar with the "JD" makers mark, who manufacturers it or where I may find more information, .pdf files, o-ring specifications or parts?

 

[JohnyHomeOwner]

Update: MTD, Troy-Bilt, Stanley Black & Decker, or whatever they are calling themselves now can't (or won't) tell me who makes the control valve pictured above (Item # 718-04706, which was at some point in time, replaced by item # 718-04706P)

From what little I think I may know, this "JD" marked valve is a Chinese made valve, which was largely replaced by the "Energy" valve, which is made stateside.

They weren't able to provide me with parts, part numbers, specs, o-ring sizes... nothing. The only information I was provided with was, after I pointed out where I suspected the problem was, they indicated the red o-ring (my suspect) in my unit was made by Goodyear Rubber for the J1926-1 application. (Color isn't important other than it indicates range & application, thus the 27 ton utilizes a red o-ring indicating nothing other than the control valve is intended for use with a 27 ton model. There are other colors like yellow that indicate the valve was intended for other loads/ranges/applications).

At multiple points during this journey I was told, "This valve isn't serviceable", which even though that's total BS, explains why they don't have any support. I understand liability these days and that high pressure liquids can go right through you... but come on. At one point they used to sell a seal kit that was 3 or 4 o-rings (30-40 cents worth) for $30 USD, but now they want to charge $250 USD for a $125 valve because you need to replace 30 cents worth of seals and it's absolutely ridiculous.

So, if you're in my situation, you're basically on your own for servicing these "JD" valves. You can elect for the $250 extortion from MTD, or maybe the less invasive $125-$150 range for manufacturer direct replacement, or you can go the stubborn route like I did and source your own seals for a fraction of the cost.

I replaced the red o-ring in my contol valve, which is located between the inner valve body and spool, just underneath the detent assembly under the detent cap. (Seal #16 in the technical drawing, this is just for reference as the drawing is of a different valve)

I chose to replace the red o-ring with a vinton o-ring A211:

Inside Diameter

0.796 in (20.22 mm)

Outside Diameter

1.074 in (27.28 mm)

Cross Section

0.139 in (3.53 mm)

I reassembled the valve and cycled the cylinder a dozen times. Not one drop of hydraulic fluid leaked out, which would have prior. So, aside from running it a full season under higher loads I'm calling this fixed... for now. I will try to remember to post back after processing later in the year to see if it held up as a viable fix.

 

[JRM]

Good job. And you are right, the reseal kits are a joke at a x 20-30 mark up for o rings. One would be money ahead to take the o rings to a hydraulic shop or a good parts store and match them up. I have a kit with about 50 different sizes for odds and ends around the house.

 

[JohnyHomeOwner]

Good job. And you are right, the reseal kits are a joke at a x 20-30 mark up for o rings. One would be money ahead to take the o rings to a hydraulic shop or a good parts store and match them up. I have a kit with about 50 different sizes for odds and ends around the house.

There is a guy that sells control valve o-ring kits for Energy valves on Ebay & Amazon. 5 seals for $30. You can literally buy 859 assorted o-rings of various materials for $30 at Harbor freight. This guy has sold somewhere between 700-1,000 of these kits. Blows my mind.

 

[JohnyHomeOwner]

Update: After processing roughly 37 face cord, I'm happy to report that not one single drop has leaked from the valve since this o-ring replacement.