Speed line technique

[Wayne Wilkinson]

So Monday, we wrecked out two decent sized hickory trees that were overhanging a pool. We decided we would speed line it to the landing zone. My question is what is the best anchor point? We ended up using the ball hitch of my truck put slack in the line hook up the lead that was to come down pull the line tight notch and let it loose. While it worked, is there a better way? longer loopies? the only other thing i can think of is move the end of the speed line that is in the tree for every cut, and that would take way longer...Any ways it worked everything landed in the landing zone as it should have. I guess i just was wondering if anyone had a better idea. Thanks!

 

[Del_]

You can put loops on several limbs and cut the lowest one first. The second limb up becomes a redirect for the speed line. When the second limb is cut the third limb up becomes the redirect. etc.

 

[Wayne Wilkinson]

I under stand this concept. I was talking about the base anchor, and tension on the ground.

 

[gorman]

A ball hitch is fine. Just hook a mechanical advantage to adjust the slack in the line. A z-rig, grcs, block and tackle, etc... You can choke something off to the ball hitch to use as an anchor.

 

[Wayne Wilkinson]

Man why didnt i think of that? I guess thats part of the learning curve. I use a make shift mechanical adv. with some micro pulleys and half inch line i got in a random bag of rope and biners when pulling down back leaning trees. Cant believe i had the kit lying in my bag to do that and spaced it. thanks gorman good tip will put that to good use next week if this other job comes through.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

I really never found it necessary to add any more tension other than what I could pull by hand through an anchored porty.

 

[Groundman One]

I really never found it necessary to add any more tension other than what I could pull by hand through an anchored porty.

That was part of my question as to rope MA vs. a pulley. Sometimes I want more "oomph" on the line than I can get by hand. And if you have 100' of 9/16" going from here to there, you might want a little help getting that line tight.

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Just watch the side loading...

 

[Wayne Wilkinson]

side loading???

 

[treebilly]

He could be referring to side loading a biner or if you have your sling is attached way out of line ( say it's a wide spread tree). You can get some really violent swings going down the zip line making it hard to control

 

[TheJollyLogger]

No, side loading the spar. Using too much MA on a speedline and then shock loading it can cause stem failure.

 

[gorman]

No, side loading the spar. Using too much MA on a speedline and then shock loading it can cause stem failure.

Good point jolly logger. It is best to have the speed line run up to the spar and then redirected down to the base of another tree or anchor point to triangulate the forces. Instead of side loading the spar the force is directed more downward. This does require much more rope and hence, more stretch.

 

[DR. P. Proteus]

No, side loading the spar. Using too much MA on a speedline and then shock loading it can cause stem failure.

Wouldn't that be fun?

 

[TheJollyLogger]

Yeah, it's a hoot.

 

[beastmaster]

I some times put a pulley on the zip line near the base attach to a rope so I can pull the main line to redirect the zip line from one side or the other. Some times you get the zip line reàlly tight the piece will get going really fast and bounce when it hits, and have a lot of force. It can surprise you.

 

[acer-kid]

Yeah, it's a hoot.

Ooohhh, Lol!
I get it...

 

[MiTreeGuy]

i just use a 3:1. I hook a porty up where i want my base anchor then i just use a prussik and pulley to make the 3:1. The omniblock is fricken awesome its compact and midline attachable , and the porty helps you hold your tension for the zipline.

 

[Stayalert]

I don't like a "tight" zip line but I'm only just starting to tinker with zip lines and am very cautious of side loading the stem...