Splitter accessories

[turnkey4099]

Stoke limiters: First run using them this morning. They are GREAT! $36 and change for 4 two inch ones from an agricultural implement dealer. Cuts the 24" plus stroke down to 16" plus. Just right for my cutting. Only ran into one chunk that was too long. Takes only a second to remove one of the limiters. Now if I can just break myself of holding onto the handle durig the return stroke... Also need to remember to remove them at the end of each use so the ram fully retracts.

Oil can. Manual says oil the slide every use. Tried pouring out of a can and squirt bottle then recalled my antique pump oil can I inherited from my old man. Great. Then got tired of trying to remember where I stashed it last time. Added a loop of wire to hang he can off the splitter.

The wood tables have to go. Stuff still catches on them. I have soem heavy grade aluminum highway signs that may work. Be working on that tomorrow.


Harry K

 

[nametrux]

good

Good ideas we all can learn from others.

 

[Nuzzy]

I always love seeing people's additions to make things easier.

 

[Laird]

Hey I think I've got some of those limiters laying around that I don't use on my bushhog. Course I don't have a hydraulic splitter.......yet!

 

[kevin j]

harry
try drop your tables down, a couple inches below the top of beam.
You have a moving wedge, which means the wood doesn't move long direction but it moves outward away from the beam as it splits. I am betting it snags the tables edges and pushes them outward.

Also try tucking them in under the beam flange just below the slider so there is no gap that any splinters or stub branches can snag.

Mine is an inch or two below ( far side only so I can stand right up next to the beam) and it works great.

kcj

 

[trialanderror]

WHen i finish my current splitter i'm going to use 12 VDC limit switches....

 

[turnkey4099]

harry
try drop your tables down, a couple inches below the top of beam.
You have a moving wedge, which means the wood doesn't move long direction but it moves outward away from the beam as it splits. I am betting it snags the tables edges and pushes them outward.

Also try tucking them in under the beam flange just below the slider so there is no gap that any splinters or stub branches can snag.

Mine is an inch or two below ( far side only so I can stand right up next to the beam) and it works great.

kcj

Those are pretty much my plans. Trying to use the factory brackets but that aims the tables above the beam. I will fab up a sheet metal plate to bolt on with a bent flant to fit under the flange. Kinda hard to do much without a welder and torch.

I still scratch my head wondering what the engineer was thinking when he designed that 'log cradle'.


Harry K

 

[kevin j]

Qratch my head wondering what the engineer was thinking when he designed that 'log cradle'.
Q



likely because s/he was young and very experienced with CAD modeling, but had never run a splitter or built a tree fort or fixed a bicycle in their entire life. Given a task to do as defined by some project schedule, built the piece out of dropoff from somewhere else in the mfg process so was a very cheap and efficient design, had the design reviews and got it released on time. then moved on to the next task as assigned.
gee, you think I see this same thing everyday where I work... The old experienced hands are gone as retired or too expensive. CAD skills are what management wants, not experience and engineering skills.
IMO does not bode well for our industry or our economy chances in the future
another story for another day.

I forget and take for granted the ability and tools to weld and fabricate about anything I can imagine up.
anybody on here close to harry who could do some welding up after he cuts all the pieces?

k

 

[Bass]

any idea where to find those Stoke limiters online as i am sure my local places wont carry them

 

[crashagn]

any idea where to find those Stoke limiters online as i am sure my local places wont carry them

They show them on Northern tool and show a picture of them but they aint there
http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/category_6970_96?cm_sp=Global%20Header-_-Categories-_-Hydraulics

 

[turnkey4099]

Looks like I will be using it without the tables for awhile. There is no way in this universe to use the factory parts that I can see. Time I get a plate bent to clear the wedge slide, it is almost at a vertical. Next try will be to see if I can shorten up the factory sides so the cross bar sits lower and a plate can close up the gap.

I wonder if anyone has complained to the company about it? I'm too lazy right now to dig out the manual to see if there is a contact listed for them. MTD??

Those rough, crooked locust chunks really get caught on it.

Harry K

 

[kevin j]

appears that you cannot lower the mounting to the beam web, as the brackets are already down and resting on the top of the lower flange, is that correct?


Can you saw the vertical ends of the brackets, horizontally, half way up. Then lower the boards with the top part of the bracket still attached, overlapping the ends where it was sawed. Drill a couple holes through each overlap and bolt.

Or, cut off the top parts, keeping the vertical ends like above. bolt a 2x4 to the end plates so they run perpendicular out from the beam. Then screw the plywood onto the top of that.

Or, cut off the top horizontal part of the bracket completely, just at the bent top corner where the vertical ends change to horizontal. Then bend the verticals 90 into horizontal plane and bolt the wood on top of that?

Or, use a 2x4/2x6 bolted against the center web, where the bracket is now. Screw the edges of the wood boards onto the top edge of the 2x4 or 2x6 so they are just under the slider. Then make some sort of wood/steel brace from bottom of 2x4 to outer edge of plywoods. Maybe another sheet of plywood like the top.

Or, frame it like a wall. 2x4 against the beam as described above., plywood on top, and 2x4 stubs perpendicular to the beam. The 2x4 against the beam is like the top plate of a wall, the vertical studs nailed down from above in a wall become the horizontal supports out. The wall sheathing in a wall is your plywood shelf top surface.


Making out of wood is not a permanent long term solution, but the goal would be to experiment on where you want the shelves. once you know what works, make up a sketch of dimensions and I will weld you up a bracket for each side you can drill and bolt to the beam. You can add plywood onto the brackets.



k

 

[woodguy105]

Stoke limiters: First run using them this morning. They are GREAT! $36 and change for 4 two inch ones from an agricultural implement dealer. Cuts the 24" plus stroke down to 16" plus. Just right for my cutting. Only ran into one chunk that was too long. Takes only a second to remove one of the limiters. Now if I can just break myself of holding onto the handle durig the return stroke... Also need to remember to remove them at the end of each use so the ram fully retracts.

Oil can. Manual says oil the slide every use. Tried pouring out of a can and squirt bottle then recalled my antique pump oil can I inherited from my old man. Great. Then got tired of trying to remember where I stashed it last time. Added a loop of wire to hang he can off the splitter.

The wood tables have to go. Stuff still catches on them. I have soem heavy grade aluminum highway signs that may work. Be working on that tomorrow.


Harry K

Cool Harry,

You don't need to adjust anything? Just slide them on and when the ram retracts and hits the limiter it automatically stops retracting?

Those would save lots of time for me.

 

[johncinco]

Qlikely because s/he was young and very experienced with CAD modeling, but had never run a splitter or built a tree fort or fixed a bicycle in their entire life. Given a task to do as defined by some project schedule, built the piece out of dropoff from somewhere else in the mfg process so was a very cheap and efficient design, had the design reviews and got it released on time. then moved on to the next task as assigned.
gee, you think I see this same thing everyday where I work... The old experienced hands are gone as retired or too expensive. CAD skills are what management wants, not experience and engineering skills.
IMO does not bode well for our industry or our economy chances in the future
another story for another day.

k

Ha ha, one of my peaves. I also say any automotive engineer should be made to change oil, spark plugs, and air filter on any vehicle they help design.

 

[turnkey4099]

Ha ha, one of my peaves. I also say any automotive engineer should be made to change oil, spark plugs, and air filter on any vehicle they help design.

One of my hilites when I was running a drill press and pattern torch in an agricultural equipment manufacturing plant was when one of the guys came over to complain that he couldn't drive a 1/4" roll pin into the hole provided. I checked the work order and sure enough the engineer had specified a 15/64" hole.

Harry K.

 

[turnkey4099]

Cool Harry,

You don't need to adjust anything? Just slide them on and when the ram retracts and hits the limiter it automatically stops retracting?

Those would save lots of time for me.

Nothing need be done, just slip on and go. Of course your valve has to have the automatic 'kick-off' when it hits a stop on the return.

There is a problem I found today. The one nearest the cylinder rotated enough for it to jam on the screw heads holding the cylinder head on. I have to figure some way to keep that one from rotating. The "loop" on the spring could also have a clearance problem if it rotates into the wrong position. They do not clamp tight to my cylinder shaft (1 3/4") They probably would on a larger one....hummm, maybe I could shim with some leather?

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

appears that you cannot lower the mounting to the beam web, as the brackets are already down and resting on the top of the lower flange, is that correct?

correct, There may be room to reposition holes in them though


Can you saw the vertical ends of the brackets, horizontally, half way up. Then lower the boards with the top part of the bracket still attached, overlapping the ends where it was sawed. Drill a couple holes through each overlap and bolt.

Thanks, I had considered cutting them off to lower it but your idea would save some work

Or, cut

off the top parts, keeping the vertical ends like above. bolt a 2x4 to the end plates so they run perpendicular out from the beam. Then screw the plywood onto the top of that.

Or, cut off the top horizontal part of the bracket completely, just at the bent top corner where the vertical ends change to horizontal. Then bend the verticals 90 into horizontal plane and bolt the wood on top of that?

Or, use a 2x4/2x6 bolted against the center web, where the bracket is now. Screw the edges of the wood boards onto the top edge of the 2x4 or 2x6 so they are just under the slider. Then make some sort of wood/steel brace from bottom of 2x4 to outer edge of plywoods. Maybe another sheet of plywood like the top.

Or, frame it like a wall. 2x4 against the beam as described above., plywood on top, and 2x4 stubs perpendicular to the beam. The 2x4 against the beam is like the top plate of a wall, the vertical studs nailed down from above in a wall become the horizontal supports out. The wall sheathing in a wall is your plywood shelf top surface.


Making out of wood is not a permanent long term solution, but the goal would be to experiment on where you want the shelves. once you know what works, make up a sketch of dimensions and I will weld you up a bracket for each side you can drill and bolt to the beam. You can add plywood onto the brackets.



k

I won't be trying to do 'wood' anymore. Those were more of an experiment and I didn't really expect them to last long. Didn't expect for them to get torn up in only two short sessions though .

Everything I 'eyeball' says.

1. That gap needs to be closed which means the table has to go under the flange (and under the wedge slide).

2. That will put the table 3=4" below the beam top. Not desireable but I will accept it.

Thanks for the offer of welding but I can get it done here. Not an expensive proposition as long as the parts are already made. Last project was to chop apart and raise my old homebuilt 9". That cost me a small load of wood and $20 (the beer, of course, was on me).

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Good time for a couple hours splitting. Shimming the 2 restricters next to the cylinder does help keep them from rotating into bad positions. Still have to keep an eye on it occasionally.

Another splitter accessory I should have had in the OP is my pawn shop hatchet. I use it to chop 'strings'. Beats wrestling around to turn it over and rerun through the splitter.

That and my garden cart. It gets parked just off the toe plate. I toss the big scrap pieces, bark, etc. into as I am splitting. beats picking them off the ground afterward.

Harry K