Splitter leaking from back of cylinder

[goof008]

The back is welded. It's a pretty old splitter and doesn't really look like many of the replacements one's I've seen. It's a 4" bore with the tie rod end on on side and just screw sticking thru a welded end on the other. The welded end is leaking. Can it just be welded from the outside and hold, or does it need to welded from the inside? I'm new to all this high pressure stuff.

 

[mga]

i don't think it should be welding on the inside, since the inside needs to be a clear surface. a good welder could fix that for you...provided, of course, the oil is drained...

 

[triptester]

Normally tie-rod cylinders are not welded at either end. It may be possible that someone tried to fix a leak by welding instead of replacing a bad o-ring.

 

[goof008]

Trip, only the wedge end of the splitter is tie rod style. The back end that mounts to the I-beam is flat, so I assume it's welded. I haven't taken it off to check yet. The piston end seems fine. Am I harming anything by using it if it is leaking, besides the environment?

 

[Old_School_Nut]

I do not think you are harming your cylinder.

if it IS leaking I would get it fixed, if their is a crack I would hate to see it break under pressure...

also, I would think normaly a certified welder would weld something like this as it is a pressure vessel of sorts..

personaly, if it was mine I would pressure wash the entire thing at the car wash with plenty of soap and make sure it is a weld thats leaking, and exactly where, i doubt it is a weld, but maybe a plug or a fitting that is leaking

if it IS leaking from a weld, and your cheep dont skimp on on the repairs. If you do it yourself, take the front end apart, slide the shaft and seal out, wash it out, grind out ALL of the crack clean everything and lay down a pretty bead with good penetration, make sure your start and stop areas are GOOD... then clean out again, check seals and reinstall.

just my 0.02 cents
-Leo-

 

[sawinredneck]

Unfortunatly, seeing this more and more. Yes, the end is welded, yes it can be welded, by a certified welder. Pay the money!!!! It has a pin hole leak from imperfections in the weld, not a hard fix.
Make sure the cylinder is extended, clean everything, then clean it again, grind it, clean it again, then weld it.

 

[goof008]

I wouldn't even think of trying to do it myself...I know nothing about welding. I'll take it in, no problem, just didn't know how to get it ready for them. So you are saying to have it in the extended position when I remove the hoses and then drain it. Then should I put a cleaning solution in the cylinder to clean it...twice. Then I can take it to get a welder to grind it and weld it. Then clean it up again and reinstall it. I don't need to take it apart if it's extended?
I'm pretty certain it is the cylinder that is leaking at a weld since the hose fittings are on top and both are dry.
Again, thanks for the help.

 

[sawinredneck]

I wouldn't even think of trying to do it myself...I know nothing about welding. I'll take it in, no problem, just didn't know how to get it ready for them. So you are saying to have it in the extended position when I remove the hoses and then drain it. Then should I put a cleaning solution in the cylinder to clean it...twice. Then I can take it to get a welder to grind it and weld it. Then clean it up again and reinstall it. I don't need to take it apart if it's extended?
I'm pretty certain it is the cylinder that is leaking at a weld since the hose fittings are on top and both are dry.
Again, thanks for the help.

Well, you are off to a GREAT start, you admit you can't weld, and lack the knowledge to do it you're self!!!!

Clean it, presure wash it etc., find out FOR SURE where it is leaking. Then take it to a welding shop. They will take care of it from there.
No need to drain the cylinder, it's just a matter of taking off the hose on the base end. (the welded end, the other is the "rod" end) That just lets the steam out, you wont cook the fluid enough to cause a problem. The only need for extending the cylinder is so the seals don't get melted. They are made of neoprene and plastic and have a low melting point.
Does that help at all?

 

[goof008]

it sure does, thanks....now to the yellow pages to find a welder. I need to have a couple of pieces fabed up for my Bronco too, so it'll all be done at the same time.

 

[Old_School_Nut]

That just lets the steam out, you wont cook the fluid enough to cause a problem. The only need for extending the cylinder is so the seals don't get melted. They are made of neoprene and plastic and have a low melting point.
Does that help at all?

well I dont know about that. when I weld I want the back of the weld to be dang near as clean as the front of the weld, if the back side has oil on it I clean it off (I am anal with most other things as well).. I also dont care for all the smoke that comes out from welding on a tube with oil on the walls. If the welder does not drain the oil out the back side of the weld will have oil on it, since he is welding on a leak spot the oil will wick into the hole... if he drains the oil and then welds it without cleaning it then the lack of volume of oil may burn up/coak onto the wall of the cyl (which is so close to the end of the cyl it shouldnt matter) for these reasons I would take the cyl apart and use this as an excuse to check the seals, but I am picky and do everything myself...

 

[triptester]

I have shortened two welded cylinders. These cylinders both had a stepped shoulder on the rear plate. The shoulder extended 1/2" into the tube helping to protect the bore during the welding process.

When shortening the cylinders I would first fully extend the rod , then saw the cylinder to length. The back section was put in a lathe to remove all old tube material. After cleaning the inside bore rear plate is inserted and welded.


When applying heat to the cylinder the seals must be kept cool and the cylinder MUST be vented.

 

[Al Smith]

You have to have the area very clean.I would suggest using 7018 welding rod.Fast freeze electrodes such as 6011,6012 or 6013 would likely leave porosity in the weld and leak like a sieve,no good.

 

[goof008]

I'm going to take it to a guy that knows what he is doing...hopefully he will do it right.