Splitter valve question

[sawjo]

I am in the middle of refurbishing an older log splitter that I grabbed from a garage sale for $125. Its a mid 80's Mighty Murc, built by Murray. This thing is heavy duty and I believe, made for the rental market. Anyways, I have replaced the original Energy valve with a new Prince LS3000-1. My problem is that the way its mounted to coincide with all the plumbing results in the ram direction being opposite of the handle direction (I want to keep the detent/pop off in the reverse stroke, obviously). To turn the valve around 180degrees would result in alot of plumbing changes in relation to the input and output ports. Is this a major no no for a log splitter? I figured as long as the operator knows whats going on there is little reason to be concerned. I actually like reaching with my left hand and pushing the handle to begin the split. What do guys think? I 'll post some pics tonight so you can see my predicament. By the way, this is not up and running yet - some more work to do.
Thanks. Joe.

 

[ericjeeper]

seems like swapping two lines

would not just swapping the position of the two lines going to the cylinder do the trick?

 

[triptester]

I had the same problem when the Energy valve on my splitter took a dump and I switched to a Prince valve I had on hand. The work ports are reversed. A simple swap of the work ports solved the problem. Easy fix if you have hose on both ports.

 

[sawjo]

I do have a hose on both ports but the detent is on the B port. I don't want the lever to stay on during the split stroke, just on the return. I am no expert but I think I am right on this one.

 

[triptester]

sawjo,

In trying to visualize how your valve is positioned . I think your valve is parallel to the cylinder with the handle end toward the back of the cylinder. In this position the only way to reverse the handle travel would be to add a new link attachment point below the valve.

With the Energy valve the link attachment lug can be rotated.

Here is a quick sketch

 

[sawjo]

PIC's

Thanks Triptester, I see your point about attachment on the bottom, but there is no boss on the bottom. I may replumb in the future, but for now I want to get this up and running and see whats what. Check out a few pics of this semi-beast. Not bad for $125. I have wire wheeled/sanded and painted and dropped all fluids and went through the engine. The motor (Briggs 8HP I/C) has very low hours judging from cylinder/head conditon and started and ran with one pull. I removed all the tins and head and glass beaded and repainted implement red. I also added new tires and the Prince valve and a few fittings. So far I am in for purchase price and about $200. If I can keep the rebuild cheap (cylinder is fine) I'll chaulk it up as score!
I also fabricated the foot and a tail light for towing. The beam is 3"X5" box with a beefy plate welded on top so its fairly light at the tounge. I think it will tow vey nice. What do you guys think?

 

[stumpguy]

looks pretty good for the price. is that a 3 inch cylinder?

 

[sawjo]

The cylinder is 4"X24" and the pump is a 11GPM Viking 2 stage. We'll have to see how that combo works out. I guess I could go to a 16GPM if I need faster cycle time.

 

[sawinredneck]

Nice looking spliter for the money!
I would want a bigger push block, mabye weld a 6x6, or 8x8 plate on the front of it. Doesn't look like much push area to me and I can see the log sliding off one side or the other.
I would also turn the control valve around, just for operator ease, not having to reach over the hoses tor run the thing.

 

[sawjo]

The cylinder is 4"X24" and the pump is a 11GPM Viking 2 stage. We'll have to see how that combo works out. I guess I could go to a 16GPM if I need faster cycle time.

 

[triptester]

Sawjo,

Weld a 1/4 inch nut or a small piece of metal with a hole in it to the valve mounting plate directly below the valve spool .This will give you the boss for attaching the link.

The splitter is looking good.

 

[stumpguy]

what is the wall thickness of the box tube? i wouldn't think it would be heavy duty enough to hold up. how high is the "work area" from the floor?

 

[sawjo]

The box beam is quite thick, maybe over 1/4". The working height to the floor is 22". The unit seems very strong and well built.

 

[ray benson]

I raised my working height from 27" to 29.5" to keep from bending over while splitting. Made a big difference.

 

[dutch]

hi sawjo , you can turn your valve around , and switch lines to cyl & valve will still kick off on return stroke

 

[mga]

correct me if i'm wrong here, but you have that control valve mounted backwards.

you have the OUT piped to the IN and vice versa. you need to rotate that valve 180 degrees and plumb it right.

i have the exact same valve and your picture shows your filter side piped to the IN valve.

the port at the front of the valve, (closest to the handle) should be plumbed to the PUSH side of the cylinder.(rear) the other port to the RETURN side of the cylinder (front)

 

[sawjo]

I was trying to get away with the hoses that were on the machine. I have since turned the valve around and will re-plumb. I am going to pick up some new lines tomorrow.

 

[mga]

I was trying to get away with the hoses that were on the machine. I have since turned the valve around and will re-plumb. I am going to pick up some new lines tomorrow.

from the picture, if you just rotate it, it looks like all the lines except one will reach.