What is the best way to hand split firewood?
Welcome to the board Willy.
I’m assuming your question refers to best “hand” tool or tools for manually splitting firewood. First, let me warn you that you’re gonna’ get some fanatical recommendations for the Fiskars Splitting Axe… don’t automatically buy into all the claims of its magical properties. That’s not to say the Fiskars ain’t a good tool; I have one and it is a very good, well crafted tool, but it doesn’t replace the other splitting tools as some would have you believe… rather it compliments them.
Ask twenty carpenters what’s the best hammer for driving nails… and you’re likely to get twenty different answers. Someone who drives more 20p ring-shank nails is not gonna’ recommend the same hammer as a guy driving mostly 6p finish nails… and each will have personal preferences as to weight, head design, handle length and material for any application. Toss in the difference in human physical size/strength and you’d be darn lucky to even get a consensus if all else remained equal. It’s the same with any striking tool… including firewood splitting tools.
The tool(s) that will work “best” for you will depend on what type and size wood you’re splitting, and your physical size, strength and conditioning. If manually splitting wood is new to you, I don’t care how big and strong you are, or what tool you use… you’re gonna’ be sore the next day until conditioning sets in. If most of your firewood is less than 12-inches diameter, straight-grained and relatively easy to split (such as Red Oak, Ash and soft maples), a Fiskars Splitting Axe would likely serve you well to start with… you can add the wedges, maul and/or sledge later. Mauls come in dozens of different shapes, sizes, weights and handle materials. The “technique” for swinging a maul is different than swinging a splitting axe… even the handle material requires a slight adjustment. Really, the chances of getting the maul you like “best” on first purchase are highly unlikely… so if you have the opportunity to “test-drive” someone else’s, do it. It isn’t necessary to go “over-seas” to find a good maul… but a $19.oo maul at WallyWorld won’t make you happy. When shopping mauls, pick them all up… Is the head on straight and in line with the handle? Does it feel balanced? (check them all out, one will just “feel” better to you) Hold them at arms length and move them around… if it wants to twist in your hands it will tend to twist when swinging and striking also.
Now-a-days I do most of my splitting with power equipment… but I swung a maul for years. When splitting by hand, I like a maul for busting rounds larger than 12-inches diameter in half; I use the Fiskars Axe to finish them up (unless it’s stringy, tough splitting wood, then I stick with the maul). My maul weighs 8-pounds, but until you get the technique down, an 8 or 10-pound maul will wear you out in a big hurry… a 6-pound is easier to learn and condition with, an 8 or 10-pound does a better job of driving splitting wedges when needed (rather than need a separate sledge). I like a traditional Hickory handles on a maul (any striking tool really) because they tend to transfer less shock and vibration to the arms than fiberglass or steel, and more energy to the object being struck (someone will argue with me about that… again). With that said, the hollow design of the Fiskars synthetic handle is hands-down the best fiberglass composite I’ve ever used… getting darn close to the same comfort as hickory (and weighs less).
You will be well outfitted with a good maul (that you swing well and “feels” right), a couple of splitting wedges (don’t go cheap), and a lighter splitting axe (Fiskars is darn good, but there are others).