Splitting cases questions

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Zodiac45

Paleostoveologist & Sawwhisperer
Joined
May 26, 2005
Messages
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Location
Downeast Maine
Hi Everybody,

I've got a beloved Partner 5000plus that bounced out of the truck and cracked the lower plastic handle (changed that) and worse cracked the paddle area on the flywheel side. It is outboard of the fuel tank but is none the less cracked. This saw design is such that the fuel tank is cast into the crankcase. I got a parts saw from Scott that's a great donor candidate but I'm having problems splitting the cases.

I do have all the bolts out, even the two hidden under the oiler plate but no joy? I did notice that on the flywheel side, under the flywheel are two tapped holes? Are these for some sort of puller? Sort of looks like it.

I've done a "search" answer, I did and got the heat the cases and don't pry answer and tried it with a rubber mallet but no dice. I would have used these cases and transfered over my stuff but I don't know the condition of the seals and bearings on this case and there's some serious goop in the fuel tank (The reason the saw probably blew) from the original owner trying to seal with silicon, the fuel hose and vent/return inlets. So this need serious cleaning out and too do that means splitting.

Also, once split and cleaned, will I, 1. need new crank seals before reassembly? (Can I even get them?) 2. Can I use a gasket maker for the cases since I know I'll have a problem obtaining a case gasket? (Loctite Red?) 3. Can I use gasket maker between the jug and case also? Thanks in advance.

Zee
 
I would replace the seals. I was able to get new seals for my 621 and 920 from George Blake. The Partner 5000 is the same as the Jonsered 490, so the seals should be the same. I haven't split a saw that new, so I can't help you there. I will be interested to see how it is supposed to be done.

As far as the gaskets, I make my own using a very small ball peen hammer(the rounded end). I have made all the gaskets for my 621 and had no trouble. They fit tight enough that I don't use any sealer on the crankcase and I have not had a leak any time I have made one. Do a search for making gaskets and that should help.
 
Update

Ok,

Success on splitting the cases! Those 2 threaded holes (5mm) worked the trick with a cheapy harmonic puller (type with several slots) and two long 5mm bolts screwed in, too pull on. Very easy this way and I could see a couple of alignment pins that I could have tapped out too.

The answer too replacing the seals is a yes so I hope I can find them. Thanks for the help Bama and RBW's. Not sure I follow what you meant with the ball peen RBW? I do have the Gasket maker stuff and that may be the answer but it will be a long process as the old gasket's a real mess and will need carefull removal. This saw' fuel tank is cast in so you to do it right too avoid leaks. More as we go. I'll post pix if anyone wants too check it out.

Zee
 
Zodiac45 said:
Not sure I follow what you meant with the ball peen RBW?
Zee


Not me, Im just as confused as you are........




Zodiac45 said:
I do have the Gasket maker stuff and that may be the answer but it will be a long process as the old gasket's a real mess and will need carefull removal.

Yep, its a pita!

I usually use a small wire wheel (3")in an air tool (whizzer/die grinder) to strip the gasket.

A 1" wheel for the dremel will work also if you dont have air.

Either way dont over do it in one spot.


Keep us posted.
 
Zodiac45 said:
Ok,

Success on splitting the cases! Those 2 threaded holes (5mm) worked the trick with a cheapy harmonic puller (type with several slots) and two long 5mm bolts screwed in, too pull on. Very easy this way and I could see a couple of alignment pins that I could have tapped out too.

The answer too replacing the seals is a yes so I hope I can find them. Thanks for the help Bama and RBW's. Not sure I follow what you meant with the ball peen RBW? I do have the Gasket maker stuff and that may be the answer but it will be a long process as the old gasket's a real mess and will need carefull removal. This saw' fuel tank is cast in so you to do it right too avoid leaks. More as we go. I'll post pix if anyone wants too check it out.

Zee
If i remember well ,the seals from a Husky 254 are the same dimension.
 
Zodiac45 said:
Not sure I follow what you meant with the ball peen RBW?


My dad always called it "peening out" a gasket. You buy a sheet of gasket material(I use 1/16" thick stuff) and cut a piece larger than you need to cover the crankcase half. Then you lightly tap with the rounded edge of the hammer against the inside(and outside) edges of of the casting. The sharp edges will cut the material and your gasket will be form fitted for your purposes. When you get to a threaded hole(screw or alignment pin), you can either tap it with the hammer and pull out the portion that covers the hole, or find something that is the same size as the hole(like a 22 shell) and tap the hole out with that. It won't be as perfect as the original, but it is pretty close.

I hope this explains what I do to make gaskets better.

I hope I don't sound to ignorant, but what does "RBW" mean?
 
bama said:
I hope I don't sound to ignorant, but what does "RBW" mean?

RaisedByWolves, aka the other guy who was posting in this thread to help him out.
 
SSSssnnnoooorrrk..........:dizzy:


Fix you right up:clap:



Be carefull as some engines have case gaskets and some are lapped where you only use some goop to seal the case halves.
 
Last edited:
Yeah you are going to not only need a gasket but the Right gasket due to the fact that the distance between the case halves also sets proper crankshaft endplay.


Stickum is a good idea in addition to the gasket, holds things in place and assures a gooood seal.
 
bama said:
My dad always called it "peening out" a gasket. You buy a sheet of gasket material(I use 1/16" thick stuff) and cut a piece larger than you need to cover the crankcase half. Then you lightly tap with the rounded edge of the hammer against the inside(and outside) edges of of the casting. The sharp edges will cut the material and your gasket will be form fitted for your purposes. When you get to a threaded hole(screw or alignment pin), you can either tap it with the hammer and pull out the portion that covers the hole, or find something that is the same size as the hole(like a 22 shell) and tap the hole out with that. It won't be as perfect as the original, but it is pretty close.

I hope this explains what I do to make gaskets better.


I agree, and have done it for many projects. I've "ironed" out paterns for oil, hydraulic, and cylinder heads many times. For a temporary fix or trial run just about any material will do. I made a head gasket for a vintage Briggs & Stratton out of a cereal box once just to get it to run! It works fine.

Happy Chain Sawing!
:greenchainsaw:
 
Great info on the peening out, never tried that (bic pen, spit, and exacto knife method yes), I'd imagine 'gently' is the operative word for sure. For holes I use a leather punch (the kind with the rotating multiple punch head and replacable punches), they're inexpensive and fairly easy to find in crafts stores, does a nice clean job and its nice to be able to do the different sizes. For realy stuck on gasket I use a sharp 1" or wider chisel, never power anything, making sure not to score the metal, and have even soaked a few in hot water to soften them when possible.
More pics as you go along! Please :)
 
Case Gasket

So what's the consensus Guy's?

Does anyone think the 515 loctite gasket maker is not the way to go? I stopped by the local hardware's and nobody has the correct gasket material (oiled paper). They have rubber and cork material but that's it. I got a mail into George to see if he's got the gasket and of course I need the crank seals too.

For an update: Last night I took the case half and put it into an old roasting pan half and filled it with hot water after a good dosing of Simple Green. I stuck it on the Glenwood (cookstove) for a while to keep it good and hot then watched the Daytona Supersport Bike race. Couple hours later, removed and brushed down, got most all the crud that was in the tank portion out, but wow don't what the previous guy was using for fuel, but serious pitting in there? As for the old gasket, after the soak I took a utility knife blade and just skimmed off the old stuff. Worked well and followed that with a scotchbrite rub.

Zee
 
Gasket material

Yep right on the money Bama,

Stopped at the local Napa and they had several rolls of different thickness gasket papers. The 1/32 looks closest to what was on there I think so I'll go with that. Also looks like you can do two seperate gaskets versus one more complex gasket. One for the fuel tank/oil tank and another for the crankcase part. All I need now is for George to come up with those crank seals and I'm good to go.

Zee
 
One small shortcut I made when I made my gaskets was to not worry about getting the inside of the fuel and oil tank cut too cleanly. It is ok if a little sticks out on the inside. Just make sure the fuel and oil can move from side to side by cutting a notch in the bottom material. I also let some extra hang out on the outside and cut with a razor blade. This way, I have material to hang on to when peening it out. Peening makes getting a clean edge easy, but sometimes you don't need a clean edge. You will see what I mean if you peen too hard and cut the part of the gasket you don't want to cut. It doesn't take too long to get the hang of it. At least the material is pretty cheap!
 

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