Splitting Florida Live Oak

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tim cole

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I've been attempting to split Florida Live Oak for years without much success; my Gransfors Bruks large axe literally bounces off the wood, even after 10-15 attempts (although the oak has cured for a year). The oak's interlocking grain twists and turns, turning what should be a great time into an exhausting and frustrating session. Not much else is available here except for pine.

Is there anyone out there who has achieved some measure of success with a splitting maul? If so, how many pounds? What brand? What style of maul?

Thanks for listening.
 
A company in Austria called Muller produce splitting mauls of various sizes made from high quality steel. I have their heaviest one which weighs 11lbs (5kg). It has a sharp edge, and is the best maul that I have ever used. Wood that is difficult to split needs to be attacked with something with weight. The Gransfors Bruks item, even though it is a top quality product, is too light for your job. Search for 'Muller Maul' on the internet. They have a catalogue which can be accessed. This maul might not do the entire job by itself. Get a good pair of wedges and a sizeable sledgehammer, say 14 to 16lbs, or more if you can handle it. If you have the fitness/technique/strength to use these tools, you are well on your way.
 
I have found the wood grenade to be unsatisfactory as it tries to open up the wood in all directions at the same time, which is inefficient, and a waste of energy. In my experience the best wedge to use is a Leborgne which will make one split and twists as it is driven into the wood by the sledge. Never try to open a block of wood from the centre. Stay out near the edge where the rings are wider. It is easier to start a split from there. Splitting wood can be tough enough, without making it unnecessarily harder for yourself.
 
Fair enough. I only have experience splitting with an axe on stuff that wasn't a problem. I've always one edges and work in. Wood grenade isn't surprising as it seems too 'popular' if you catch my drift.


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A company in Austria called Muller produce splitting mauls of various sizes made from high quality steel. I have their heaviest one which weighs 11lbs (5kg). It is heavy with a sharp edge, and is the best maul that I have ever used. Wood that is difficult to split needs to be attacked with something with weight. The Gransfurs Bruks item, even though it is a top quality product, is too light for your job. Search for 'Muller Maul' on the internet. They have a catalogue which can be accessed. This maul by itself might not do the entire job by itself. Get a good pair of wedges and a sizeable sledgehammer, say 14 to 16lbs, or more if you can handle it. If you have the fitness/technique/strength to use these tools, you are well on your way.

Appreciate the response. Per your recommendation, I investigated the Muller Maul; looks nice; but only has a 6 1/2 lb head, look like. Wondered how effective a 6 lb. head would be on the iron-hard FL Live Oak. Thanks
 
Investigate more. In Page 10 of their 2013 catalogue under art no. 0257 and art no. 0259, they make eight (8) different size mauls from 2kg (4.4lb) to 5kg( 11lb). You are referring to the 3kg (6.6lb) item. This is too light. Go for the heaviest weight that you can manage. 0257 have ash handles and 0259 have ones made from hickory.
 
I can't see using anything but a hydraulic splitter. I have an Ox Head "Big Ox" splitting maul with a 6.6 lbs. head. I can split a lot of stuff with it. But when I get to stringy white oak or elm I defer to the machine. The Big Ox is a nice maul but it is pricey at $120.
 
Investigate more. In Page 10 of their 2013 catalogue under art no. 0257 and art no. 0259, they make eight (8) different size mauls from 2kg (4.4lb) to 5kg( 11lb). You are referring to the 3kg (6.6lb) item. This is too light. Go for the heaviest weight that you can manage. 0257 have ash handles and 0259 have ones makes from hickory.
Ok. Thanks for the tip. I'll look them up again and examine what they have available. I imagine they have a US source for them, right?
 
Splitting mauls are just wedges with handles. The handles are used to throw the head at wood. The quality of the metal is relatively unimportant. The weight and shape is what does the work. A sharp, polished, convex edge that enters the wood, then spreads the fibers apart quickly, without sticking, works best. Bopping tangents off around the edge is the best way, for me, to split live oak. I like to split as soon as possible after the tree is dropped. Sometimes turning the round over will make a world of difference. Some split easier with the root end up, others split best setting the way they grew. If you can split live oak well, you can split most anything on this continent!
If you use wedges watch for them to hop out, sometimes with great force, when you hit them. I like wedges that have sharp edges and slightly concave faces because they stay in the wood better. The gimmick wedges with twists and multiple faces don't work any better than the plain ones.
 
Ok. Thanks for the tip. I'll look them up again and examine what they have available. I imagine they have a US source for them, right?
The American distributor appears to be Traditional Woodworker, 885E Collins Blvd Suite 104, Richardson, TX 75081. Type in 'Leonhard Muller maul', and search through the results. You should get all the information that you require. A word of caution: like any quality product, these mauls are not cheap.
 
The American distributor appears to be Traditional Woodworker, 885E Collins Blvd Suite 104, Richardson, TX 75081. Type in 'Leonhard Muller maul', and search through the results. You should get all the information that you require. A word of caution: like any quality product, these mauls are not cheap.
Appreciate the added information; will phone them today to inquire if they have the Leonhard Muller Maul. Thanks
 
Appreciate the added information; will phone them today to inquire if they have the Leonhard Muller Maul. Thanks
Found out today that The Traditional Woodworker does not carry the 10-12 lbs. splitting maul; has to be specially ordered from Austria and the price for shipping would be astronomical. Bottom line: looks like I've reached a dead-end with MULLER MAULS. I'll keep looking for a well-designed 10 lbs. maul..
 
A company in Austria called Muller produce splitting mauls of various sizes made from high quality steel. I have their heaviest one which weighs 11lbs (5kg). It has a sharp edge, and is the best maul that I have ever used. Wood that is difficult to split needs to be attacked with something with weight. The Gransfurs Bruks item, even though it is a top quality product, is too light for your job. Search for 'Muller Maul' on the internet. They have a catalogue which can be accessed. This maul might not do the entire job by itself. Get a good pair of wedges and a sizeable sledgehammer, say 14 to 16lbs, or more if you can handle it. If you have the fitness/technique/strength to use these tools, you are well on your way.

Mueller's retail sales in US are handled by traditionalwoodworker dot com /wood-axes-knives/departments/525/. Didn't know they make a 5 kg maul. I've had their 3 kg (6.5 lb) for 3 yrs, and find it to be a finely crafted beast. With years' use, the only change is the polished area extending farther from the edge. Really gnarly stuff yields to this maul more than any other I've seen. In fact, the 3 kg maul head is a bit heavier than what seems optimum to me (5-5.5 lb), but is close enough. This maul was such a revelation to me, it was almost addictive.

This maul's steel and heat treatment are outstanding, for the combo of hardness and toughness- dare you to leave a mark on the poll driving wedges. At $150, well worth it to me, especially compared to Gransfors prices. Potential heirloom.

Sometimes, it's advisable to cheat- noodle a groove as deep as the saw's bar is wide, set a wedge in the far end, then use the maul on the near end. Least mess, least fuss.
 
Found out today that The Traditional Woodworker does not carry the 10-12 lbs. splitting maul; has to be specially ordered from Austria and the price for shipping would be astronomical. Bottom line: looks like I've reached a dead-end with MULLER MAULS. I'll keep looking for a well-designed 10 lbs. maul..
All of the Muller 'stuff' has to come from Austria, and if your maul came in with a regular order, it should not add anything extra- -or very little- to the retail price. Are these people just being lazy? Mine was brought in this way after I ordered it specially, and while it was expensive, it was not excessively so. Traditional Woodworker probably only takes these orders a few times in the year. If your item was added to the list, you might have to wait for a few months to get it. It would be worth the delay. You may have been talking to the wrong 'salesperson'. Get them to quote a retail price for you and get the item added to the next 'regular' order. A final reminder: a quality product like this, is expensive.
 
Hey, thanks for the additional information. I'll phone them again and give it another try in ordering the muller maul. Much appreciated
 
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