sprouts driving me crazy. how do I kill this stump?!

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LightningLoader

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Have a camphor tree that was cut down over a year ago now. The trunk is STILL resprouting. Sprayed with roundup concentrate when cut down tree, and have sprayed the sprouts about once a month for the last year, and they just die back then re-sprout a week or two later. Also had some that were cut down even longer ago and ground out and some of the roots are still sprouting too.

What do I do. Getting to the point where I'm so frustrated that I would literally salt the earth so that nothing would ever grow again just to get rid of this tree.
 
If it's camphor laurel (cinnamomum camphora) like we have hear they are tough!

I mix a potent roundup and water with a dash of dishwashing liquid. The dishwashing liquid acts as surfactant and make the poison stick.

I mix it at 1part roundup and 3parts water, really strong, cut the shoots/stump/roots etc and as soon as you have cut it ... spray it.

I've cut the top off stumps and sprayed the entire surface of the stump till it was dripping, and occasionally you still get some shoots say 1' down pop out from the bark. You have to deal with these when they occur individually. I just tell cutomers what to do if they reshoot.

Tough trees.
 
um, this might be a dumb question (we don't have camphor in MI), but why don't you spend the money to have it ground down?
 
bz262 said:
um, this might be a dumb question (we don't have camphor in MI), but why don't you spend the money to have it ground down?
Also had some that were cut down even longer ago and ground out and some of the roots are still sprouting too.

Lightningloader, give the sprouts a year to grow back, then spray the heck out of them with the glyphosate/water/dishwasher detergent mix in the late summer.
Sometimes if you give a plant more foliage then it will soak up more herbicide.
 
Or...

You could use a homeopathic solution and grow all or anyhing in the same place immediately with no harmful side affects...
 
Tree Killer

I have heard that embedding a copper or brass screw into a tree will kill it. Could this work in a stump as well?
 
Yes but..

Schultzz said:
I have heard that embedding a copper or brass screw into a tree will kill it. Could this work in a stump as well?
Copper can also be a deficiency in some cases...
 
so basically let it grow, then when it gets to be summertime again nuke it with roundup and dish soap.
No way to kill it sooner?
 
You could get a pulaski and start digging around the roots, hook a truck up to the roots, and yank the whole thing out.

Or...get your herbicide applicator's license and go buy a quart of Arsenal AC and soak the stump with the concentrated herbicide.

Roundup (Glyphosate) is rather weak. It works too quickly sometimes so you end up killing only portions of the root system before more of the herbicide can be absorbed. (Hence letting it develop more foliage)

You could try other chemicals such as 2,4-D (Weed-b-gone etc) in concentrated form.

You may want to contact a herbicide contractor so they can spray some stronger chemicals.
 
they make stuff that will stop brazillian pepper from growing.I forget the name but im sure that will work.

Consider this though....

Most stumps cost 150.00 or less to grind.
Round up once a week for a year prolly costs more....
Just call a stumper guy and end the suffering.....
-Nick
 
I have used Tordon and it always works great. The secret is to paint stump as soon as cutting tree down. I cut a willow in my own back yard about 5 years ago. It was about 4 foot diam and never suckered out again.
 
a product called "Sucker Stopper" from the Monteray company works really well. It is a growth hormone that supresses sucker growth. It has worked really well for a pear that had been cut down over two years ago and we kept spraying with round-up and it would sprout back every time. This sucker stopper has seriously worked this time. It is $12.00 for a 22 oz. bottle. pretty cheap.
 
Round up is a lousy stump killer, even at high concentrations and with dish soap. It will work to knock the leaves off woody plants, and it can kill the sensitive ones, but if you want it dead now, you need something stronger.
Stump killer is best applied to fresh cuts, so re-cut the sprouts and paint the poison directly to the fresh cuts. The poison can also be absorbed through thin bark.
When you use the stronger poisons, they can travel from the stump to other plants of the same spieces, through root grafts. The poison can also travel through the soil to non-target roots. Be careful using it around trees you don't want to kill.
Poisons are best absorbed by the plant during times the plant is actively growing.
Tordon and Ortho Brush-B-Gone are both pretty strong.
 
What's the point in nuking it with chemicals? If you think about how many rounds of shoots that the stump can put up in a growing season, maybe 3 or 4 max, that's about 30 minutes of your time per year to remove them with a hand pruner. If the sprouts aren't allowed to grow foliage it will be dead within two years if not sooner. Or have a professional remove it if you can't wait.
-moss
 
moss said:
What's the point in nuking it with chemicals? If you think about how many rounds of shoots that the stump can put up in a growing season, maybe 3 or 4 max, that's about 30 minutes of your time per year to remove them with a hand pruner. If the sprouts aren't allowed to grow foliage it will be dead within two years if not sooner. Or have a professional remove it if you can't wait.
-moss
LightningLoader said:
so basically let it grow, then when it gets to be summertime again nuke it with roundup and dish soap.
No way to kill it sooner?
If he doesn't want to wait til summer, what makes you think he wants to wait 2 years?
 
Fumbler said:
If he doesn't want to wait til summer, what makes you think he wants to wait 2 years?

Guilty as charged, forgot that the sprouting stump is near to causing insanity.

Curious to know what the diameter of the stump is, I think it's a factor in the "treatment" strategy.
-moss
 
Schultzz said:
I have heard that embedding a copper or brass screw into a tree will kill it. Could this work in a stump as well?

If the copper or brass is twice the diameter of the plant or stump and you drive it 15 or 20 FOOT below grade it should work
How ever this will requirer a pile driver like we use to drive 20 inch I beams for bridge construction.:laugh: :bang:
 

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