Metals406
Granfodder Runningsaw
Sorry, was busy with guest's last night, pics as requested;
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/170447d1296498996-020-jpg
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/170448d1296499005-028-jpg
http://www.arboristsite.com/attachments/chainsaw/177974d1301451014-095-jpg
I can see that you did touch the tie straps slightly so that leads to ask. As the chain wears and you resharpen you need to adjust for wear by moving the tooth up, won't that get into the strap even more? You chain bar looks almost vertical at zero degrees, meaning that your using more angle on the wheels side plate bevel? Mine is near 5 degrees of backward tilt and the chain is held nearer the back of the bar about 1" from the exact top. Guess it doesn't really matter if you can get the tooth angle right and not hurt the strap?
The Silvey guys said the shaping block should be set at 20* to the top plate and that should yield a 3* side plate angle, is your shaping blocks set to 20*?
And should I worry about top plate angle, looks more like 35*?
Thanks,
Can't help ya with your machine settings, but I can tell ya that you can get into the straps pretty good, and I have yet to have a chain come apart. Think about how much is removed for a race chain.