Installer coming tomorrow putting 6" round stainless into 8" square clay chimney. He says I won't have my existing clean out anymore, which is 6 feet below the pipe going to chimney. States that is part of my drafting problem because it should be capped off right below the pipe going into the chimney. I asked how do I clean it out and he told me to take the pipe off going from the stove to the chimney, really??? Is this right or he trying to get out of extra work. I can just see me needing to clean it out in zero temps and having to shut the stove down completely to clean it. Thanks for any info and or help.
Stainless steel pipe install
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You should be able to clean from the bottom up with something like a sooteater. I just did our stove and insert tonight from inside the house.
http://www.gardusinc.com/sooteater.html
You access the stove pipe from inside the stove, the rod is extremely flexible.
http://www.gardusinc.com/sooteater.html
You access the stove pipe from inside the stove, the rod is extremely flexible.
The idea of the liner would be to help keep the creosote build up down by making it draft better and keep the chimney warmer. A liner does run from the cap of the chimney to the pipe from the stove. So yes that would be the way to clean it.
My stove is very similar. Free standing stove. The stove pipe goes into a 6" round clay thimble then into a 8" square clay thimble. Except I don't have the clean out. I clean it out every fall before the first burn of the season. Yes, by removing the stove pipe, and taking it out in the yard, and taking a big brush to it. It is a 2 hour ordeal to take it apart, clean it, and put it back together. It's a once a year thing, I have never had to clean it mid winter. I do burn well seasoned wood.
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NSMaple1
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The bottom of the liner will need to be tight, yes - or else it kills your draft. So if it can't be capped on the bottom while keeping the T junction where your stove pipe hits the liner tight - yes, you might have to lose your cleanout spot.
Not knowing anything about the rest of your setup - if you had a barometric damper in your stove pipe just outside where it goes into your chimney, you could likely stick a vac hose in through the damper opening & suck the bottom of the chimney clean that way. I have done that before. Beats taking pipe apart.
Not knowing anything about the rest of your setup - if you had a barometric damper in your stove pipe just outside where it goes into your chimney, you could likely stick a vac hose in through the damper opening & suck the bottom of the chimney clean that way. I have done that before. Beats taking pipe apart.
I made a mistake when I installed mine and lost my clean out. Doing it over I would have a TV in the flu with a side coming out to the store as normal, but I would continue the pipe down into the basement elbow out and have a clean out with the There. I would have a With screws not just a flapper door he wanted to be sealed totally to not lose the draft but have a way to clean it up in the basement.
I hate climbing up on the roof more more every year and this one doesn't lend itself well to cleaning out from the storm and
I hate climbing up on the roof more more every year and this one doesn't lend itself well to cleaning out from the storm and
The sooteater looks like a nifty gadget, but would make a heckuva mess on a woodstove clean out with the door open. Why not go with a flexible liner and use a fiberglass brush and rod system from the top down? I use my stove all winter 24/7, and only clean the chimney at the end of the season, from the top down. My wood is nice & dry, and I don't get much soot from the cleaning.
The mess it makes is manageable, assuming one isn't burning wet wood all winter. Both my chimneys are 25+ feet and I get about a coffee cup worth of soot out of each. The fine dust is controlled with a shop vac with bag and filter.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Soot eater works well for me. My chimney is from the top of the stove about 18ft up. I just slide the pipe up off the stove, tape a trash bag to the bottom with a little hole for the rod. No mess.
