StaSet breaking strength

[emr]

I tried this thread on a different site and didnt get much response, so I will reword it here and see what I get.

Staset 3\8"... I was told the breaking strength was 4400 lbs. How can this be acceptable of use as a friction hitch since it doesnt meet the min. breaking strength required for rope and split tails?

Is Staset 3/8 ok for eye-eye hitches? (Like I was told)

If 4400lbs is ok, what is the lowest rated rope that is still ok for friction hitches?

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

if grabbing 1 leg of hitch is okay at 5600 test; grabbing 2 at 4400 shouldn't be tooo suspect. Like a sling in linear set is 100%, a basket is 200% etc.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

The generally accepted feeling is that because a prussic loop is always configured in a basket, half of the 5400 pound breaking strength, or 2700 pounds meets ANSI requirements.

 

[emr]

Spyder, thanks for the reply again... you were my only other reply at TB. Why does ANSI not say anything about different configurations then? They just say rope needs to be at least X amount. I thought X needed to be 5400 but it may be 5600.

 

[emr]

The generally accepted feeling is that because a prussic loop is always configured in a basket, half of the 5400 pound breaking strength, or 2700 pounds meets ANSI requirements.

Arent prussics generally girth hitched, not basket hitched, resulting in lower strength?

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

All the ANSI requirements are open to some interpretation.
Rope is 5400 pounds, gear is 5000. Prussic cord is not a climbing rope, so it could be gear. A 2500 pound cord could create a 5000 loop.
In the rock climbing world, Cord is often rated at double it's strength, because there intended use is as a loop, or at least that's what I noticed. So a 3000 pound cord would break at 1500 pounds in a straight line pull. Abrorists cords are not rated that way.
Confused yet? Me too.
On the basket configuration:
The cord goes from the carabiner to the host rope and back to the carabiner, two legs holding one, a two to one advantage.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

When I said prussic loop, I really meant a tress cord. Sorry for that confusion.

 

[emr]

Mike, if I went to Mountian Bay in Appleton and they told me breaking strength of cord to be 4000 lbs, then am I to assume that means it is ok for a loop? Or do I really need to ask what exactly they mean? If it is some high school kid, he might not even know the difference or care.

 

[Kneejerk Bombas]

At a rock climbing place, and a cord, there's a good chance it's halved.

 

[TheTreeSpyder]

MM is a-gain right, but don't tell him i said so; i wasn't sure if it was 5400 or 5600(and was tooo lazy to check); so i erred on the right side i think....

i will question whether gear is at 5k; i all ways thought it was durables/metals/hards at 5k and wearables/synthetics/softs/lines (whether round line or flat line/webbing) at 5.4k synthetics; naturals disallowed; kinda assuming that the extra was in the spirit of stretch/wear/flexhaving fluctuations and losses for the non-durables?

i've lost my copy of the Z in a move a year or so ago; or at least it hasn't floated to the top yet! But, i think the spirit of the Z; if not the literal verbage is that the 'loop' not the cord itself shall/will/whatever meet the rope/synthetics tensile requiremeants. So; i go with what MM said; but once again; please don't tell him!

In any case, on a 5.4kk line doubled over with your weight on it ye are pretty safe; just as on a 2.7k cord doubled over; on 1 leg of the 5.4k line (meaning only half your weight on that leg of line attatched to the doubled over 2.7k cord) ye should feel confident personally, if not legally; let alone half your weight on a doubled over /basket position 4.4k.

But really it isn't a straight basket, but a leveraged/bent/angled basket for some loss; but then the 5.4k tautline attatchmenat would not be so much a 5.4k x 100% linear, but rather 5.4k leverged/choked/5.4k X 80% linear. Not to scare ya, but give more proper imageries to carry over to other analogies and engineering that we get ourselves into. So, really, really, we been there, have questioned the same things; and are looking out for ya.

 

[emr]

It might just be me, but were you just talking like a pirate? Thanks for the info. I am pretty sure making a prussic loop out of the 3\8 staset is out of the question. I was hoping to make it as a back up to my hand asscenders. I will use it, however, for my friction hitch....I think. Thanks for the feed back.