Stihl 009 Ignition Module

[bthompson224]

I have a Stihl 009 (Not L). When I got it it was having ignition problems, slapped a new spark plug in and it fired right up. No issues for years. Last year it stopped and would not restart. Tried to see if there was spark, but doesn't seem to be. Tried a cheapo spark tester and got some weak light. Decided to replace the plug, no bueno. Now I'm just going to replace the module. Before anyone asks, I'll be going through the fuel system next while I have it apart and everything out.

The part I received does not have a wire coming directly out of the module, and does not appear to have a lug anywhere to solder one on. Do I have the wrong part?

Top pic is the new one, the bottom is the original.

 

[bthompson224]

One thought. Below if you look close there is a very short tab that sticks out of the body and touches the bare metal arm. Could that replace the jump in the original and the lug is actually for what I described as the missing connection?

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Firstly, does that 009 have an electronic ignition or points?

The new coil has a built in ground for the coil so as you bolt it to the case it automatically acts as ground (no need for a wire to ground. The green and yellow wire is your primary side (positive) that goes to either your CDI if that’s the setup on that model, points (if they have them) or the kill switch.

 

[bthompson224]

Firstly, does that 009 have an electronic ignition or points?

The new coil has a built in ground for the coil so as you bolt it to the case it automatically acts as ground (no need for a wire to ground. The green and yellow wire is your primary side (positive) that goes to either your CDI if that’s the setup on that model, points (if they have them) or the kill switch.

So the wire would go from the tab down to what looks like a connector? See pic, it would attach to the screw by my thumb. It's the only other wire from the module.

 

[bthompson224]

Forgot to mention, no points. The kill switch is not part of the circuit, it looks to be a metal slide that when moved to STOP, it goes over a metal bar and then becomes a ground that is inserted into the circuit. No real open/close type of switch to go bad. Looks like if it was broken, I wouldn't be able to kill the motor.

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

Yep that’s right, wire that new coil in place of that old one. Those slide switches were quite common on Stihls around the 70’s. The 020av, 009, 010, 011 and a bunch more used them. Being after market though, you never know what you’ll get.

 

[bthompson224]

Yeah, I realize it's a risk with the cheap parts, however the saw just isn't worth $80 parts.

 

[bthompson224]

And thanks BTW

 

[Vintage Engine Repairs]

You’re welcome, keep us updated here how you go. It should only take a couple minutes to install and assemble.

 

[bthompson224]

Will do. The new one doesn’t fit very well, spark plug wire is on the opposite side and I think the arm is thinner. Gonna get a few washers tomorrow to snug it up.

 

[bthompson224]

Still no spark. Had to walk away after a while. Will tear it down and try again tomorrow. I did find a big crack in the old spark plug wire.

 

[SteveSr]

Still no spark. Had to walk away after a while. Will tear it down and try again tomorrow. I did find a big crack in the old spark plug wire.

The old coil is probably still good assuming that the old wire can be replaced. Most of the coils with the rubber boot the coil wire can just be unscrewed and replaced.

 

[bthompson224]

I was able to unscrew the old one. The new one is glued in.

 

[SteveSr]

I was able to unscrew the old one. The new one is glued in.

Ignition wire is cheap at your Stihl dealer. You want the solid conductor core stuff. Replace the plug boot as well if it is deteriorated.

 

[bthompson224]

Good point. I’ll try a new wire with the old module.