Stihl 025 rebuild project.

[KORNSTER]

Hi,

I'm fairly new to the world of chainsaws, but I work as a maintenance engineer, so I'm used to taking stuff apart and scratching my arse and my head until I work out what the hell needs to happen to fix something..

I bought a stihl 025 off of feebay as a fixer-upper project. I'm happy to spend a bit of money on it to get some experience and end up with a fully serviced back-up saw to my stihl MS261.

I can't seem to find an engineers exploded drawing/parts list of the 025 saw, does anyone have an idea where I can find one?

I have plenty of questions already, but I'll start with the drawings if possible.

Cheers.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hi,

I'm fairly new to the world of chainsaws, but I work as a maintenance engineer, so I'm used to taking stuff apart and scratching my arse and my head until I work out what the hell needs to happen to fix something..

I bought a stihl 025 off of feebay as a fixer-upper project. I'm happy to spend a bit of money on it to get some experience and end up with a fully serviced back-up saw to my stihl MS261.

I can't seem to find an engineers exploded drawing/parts list of the 025 saw, does anyone have an idea where I can find one?

I have plenty of questions already, but I'll start with the drawings if possible.

Cheers.

You might get lucky and someone on here will post you an IPL of your saw. You can post on the beg for manuals thread and your chances are much greater at getting what you need. It is found over in the, stickies found at the top of the page.

 

[KORNSTER]

You might get lucky and someone on here will post you an IPL of your saw. You can post on the beg for manuals thread and your chances are much greater at getting what you need. It is found over in the, stickies found at the top of the page.

Thanks. I've just received a message regarding this, so I'll check back soon.

 

[Kenskip1]

025

Here is a link for a rebuild of a ms 250/025. Ken

Repair of Stihl MS250 Chainsaw PARTIAL ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1 of 4 - YouTube

 

[KORNSTER]

Here is a link for a rebuild of a ms 250/025. Ken

Repair of Stihl MS250 Chainsaw PARTIAL ENGINE REBUILD - Part 1 of 4 - YouTube

Thanks ken.

So, my first question is regarding cheap parts that seem to be readily available. Is the quality of these reproduction parts anywhere near the original stihl parts?
I guess the answer will always be to purchase the original parts where possible, but from time to time, people do make good quality reproductions. I've just bought a cheap crankcase housing as the original was blackened where it had overheated severely. The brand was Hutzl.

I'm currently stripping the saw down. I intend to replace the obvious - pipes, seals, bearings etc, then any defective parts as required. By the time I have finished the saw will be just like the Queen's Mother just before she died...old, but full of new parts.:msp_wink:

When it comes to doing a compression check, is there a common size adaptor that fits the majority of saws?

 

[ohio andy]

When it comes to doing a compression check, is there a common size adaptor that fits the majority of saws?

I think the two common sizes are 14 mm and 18 mm. The 14 mm is the one you need for the MS 250, so i assume the 025 is the same.

 

[Adirondackstihl]

IPL
MS210, MS230, MS250 IPL.pdf

SM
MS210, MS230, MS250 SM.pdf

 

[a. palmer jr.]

IPL
MS210, MS230, MS250 IPL.pdf

SM
MS210, MS230, MS250 SM.pdf

Thanks. I just got a MS250 today that looks like it's gonna need a rebuild, I tested the compression at about 90, not good.

 

[K5krawler]

This should be a help

This is the link from my 025 that I bought used. I can probably answer any question you have.
http://www.arboristsite.com/chainsaw/173821.htm

 

[Wood Doctor]

If It Runs, Use It.

The Stihl 025 is a very good light-duty chainsaw, and yours was probably built prior to Y2K. Beware that a couple of carbs were used to construct these saws. One of them has no Hi-speed adjustment screw, but it seems to work OK. The biggest hiccup problem seems to be with the fuel line springing a leak near the entrance to the carb because of the tight bend. Replacing the fuel line hose seems to be an automatic for most repair shops working on these.

Frankly, I like the Stihl 025 for limbing work and light bucking. Just don't ask it to do more than that. If it runs and starts OK with almost 100 PSI compression, I say use it. Your elbow, shoulder, and back will appreciate how easy it is to start without a decomp valve.

 

[a. palmer jr.]

The Stihl 025 is a very good light-duty chainsaw, and yours was probably built prior to Y2K. Beware that a couple of carbs were used to construct these saws. One of them has no Hi-speed adjustment screw, but it seems to work OK. The biggest hiccup problem seems to be with the fuel line springing a leak near the entrance to the carb because of the tight bend. Replacing the fuel line hose seems to be an automatic for most repair shops working on these.

Frankly, I like the Stihl 025 for limbing work and light bucking. Just don't ask it to do more than that. If it runs and starts OK with almost 100 PSI compression, I say use it. Your elbow, shoulder, and back will appreciate how easy it is to start without a decomp valve.

Mine has quite a bit less than 100..I ordered a piston for it.

 

[KORNSTER]

Well, the stihl 025 rebuild went well. Thanks very much for your help - I'm very happy with my 'new' saw.

I've now got a box of bits that needs to be assembled into something that resembles an 036 saw. I'll have a look for an IPL or a thread relating to this sometime soon.

 

[ChainFinn]

I just did rude rebuild on the 025 that my buddy gave me. He said it started to wave a lot in idle and as its 1998, he thought it was time to toss it to garbage anyways, and bought a new one.

I checked the pulse line, fuel line, replaced carb membranes, tried it, it ran but waved so i took it totally apart and i noticed instanty that it had the clutch sided crank seal split in two. For my luck my friend stopped using it instantly as the troubles showed up, so bearings were good, as well as the piston, so i just replaced the seals on both sides, put in a new piston ring, widened the inlet and exhaus ports a bit, gutted the muffler and its a runner. I dont see it as possible professional saw, that i would rely on totally, but i think its good for occasional stuff at summert cabin, and if it gets stolen, my moneytary loss aint an end of the world.

-seals, 15e a pair
-plug, 5 e
-carb kit 7,5 e
-piston ring 4 e
-fuel / pulse line, 10e

so it wasnt a wallet breaker to make it a runner, at all.

 

[Naked Arborist]

[QUOTE/]so it wasnt a wallet breaker to make it a runner, at all.[/QUOTE]

If you want a screamer 025 put a Reisman 250 top end on it ported. Even non ported it runs over a OEM 025 jug.

 

[ChainFinn]

[QUOTE/]so it wasnt a wallet breaker to make it a runner, at all.

If you want a screamer 025 put a Reisman 250 top end on it ported. Even non ported it runs over a OEM 025 jug.[/QUOTE]

Thanks for the tip but here where i live, we get either genuine Stihl parts OR suspicious "no brandnames mentioned" stuff, and iF i´d order one overseas, id would cost pretty much thanks to the taxes/customs fees etc :msp_sad:

And really,i wont be giving much thought to this saw, as it runs now and my interests are on the Husky side
But its always fun to make non-runners, back to runners again, no matter whats the brand.