Stihl 026 not idling well

[Chuck_D]

Ok, saw arrived early. got it today.. i tiik off the muffler like you guys had said to do and i took a couple photos.. The cylinder wall looks scored to me.. It does start and run but doesnt like to idle.. The photos were taken with a magnifier app. Let me know what you think

 

[SteveSr]

Ok, saw arrived early. got it today.. i tiik off the muffler like you guys had said to do and i took a couple photos.. The cylinder wall looks scored to me.. It does start and run but doesnt like to idle.. The photos were taken with a magnifier app. Let me know what you thinkView attachment 855849View attachment 855850View attachment 855851View attachment 855852

Toasted! Hope that you didn't pay too much!

 

[Chuck_D]

Toasted! Hope that you didn't pay too much!

Paid $100, for that, its worth rebuilding

 

[Chuck_D]

From what ive been seeing online i may be able to save this cylinder,,, These photos are magnified which makes it look much worse, maybe... Ive also found out by looking at older threads from the perosn i bought it from is he started it with starter fluid.. Not to bright.. anyway. ill wait for more to chime in on this

 

[Mad Professor]

Clean it up, do a pressure/vac test, then tear it down.

Might be the pictures, but muffler/ex port looks kind of carbony/oily. Those scores might be from carbon flaking off.

With luck the cylinder will clean up.

How is the rest of the saw? (pictures!)

 

[Chuck_D]

How is the rest of the saw? (pictures!)

 

[drf255]

Looks good to me. Jug looks OEM.

It’s worth $100.

Is that the piston or intake side of cylinder wall you are showing in your pic? You will likely be able to clean that jug up and add a meteor piston.

The most important thing is to figure out why it is scored, not just fixing it. It will repeat itself otherwise.

 

[Mad Professor]

Looks good to me. Jug looks OEM.

It’s worth $100.

Is that the piston or intake side of cylinder wall you are showing in your pic? You will likely be able to clean that jug up and add a meteor piston.

The most important thing is to figure out why it is scored, not just fixing it. It will repeat itself otherwise.

Pictures are looking through muffler inner case.

 

[Chuck_D]

Pictures are looking through muffler inner case.

That is correct madprofessor. So I'm guessing at this point , check the compression. Also. Someone said a vacuum test. Where should I get one of those. Also, what should I hone the cylinder with

 

[SteveSr]

View attachment 855904View attachment 855905View attachment 855906View attachment 855907View attachment 855908View attachment 855909View attachment 855910

Looks to be a Frankensaw. Cover plastics don't match. Old AF cover doesn't match the new tank style. Does the crankcase have the hole for the adjustable oil pump?

 

[SteveSr]

Also, what should I hone the cylinder with

NEVER hone a Nikasil cylinder... You'll ruin it. The plating is only a couple of thousandths thick. Do a search for removing aluminum transfer without acid.

 

[Mad Professor]

NEVER hone a Nikasil cylinder... You'll ruin it. The plating is only a couple of thousandths thick. Do a search for removing aluminum transfer without acid.

Acid method is milder if you know how to do it. Most stuff acid method MIGHT hurt , has holes in plating already. Stay away from ports.

I've seen hones/sandpaper ruin cylinders. Be advised............

To each his own.

 

[Mad Professor]

NEVER hone a Nikasil cylinder... You'll ruin it. The plating is only a couple of thousandths thick. Do a search for removing aluminum transfer without acid.

Nope acid works.
after cyinder

 

[Chuck_D]

NEVER hone a Nikasil cylinder

Ok, no honing. Ill look into another method. Ill check crankcase for oil adjustment when I get home

 

[Mad Professor]

Cylinder after piston before






the pistion before

Cleaned up with acidd

 

[Chuck_D]

Looks good professor. ill give that a try.

Does the crankcase have the hole for the adjustable oil pump?

No auto oiler Steve

 

[farmer steve]

I dint think out of that.. Your right it is in excellent condition.. On the shelf it goes.. Good Idea Mogul. TY

Very nice saw Chuck. Clean classic saws are getting harder to come by. Not one I wood do much cutting with. Good luck with your other 026.

 

[SteveSr]

No auto oiler Steve

But is there a hole in the bottom of the crankcase for the adjustment screwdriver? If there is it is a later 026 Pro crankcase and matches the tank. If not the tank housing was likely replaced with the later Pro version.

 

[Chuck_D]

But is there a hole in the bottom of the crankcase for the adjustment screwdriver?

I just checked, so there is a hole, so this is a pro 26?

 

[SteveSr]

I just checked, so there is a hole, so this is a pro 26?View attachment 856414

It is from the period after the Pro model was introduced. Stihl had two versions Pro, non-Pro. The Pro got the clutch driven adjustable oiler, decomp valve, and compensating carb. The non-Pro didn't.

This means that the cylinder cover and the AF cover have been replaced by ones from an earlier version saw. I am sort of surprised that the AF cover would fit and latch properly on that tank housing. It may not if you get the wider AF for it.