The small black wire attached to the thumb switch assembly on my 028 AV has become detached, making the kill function stop working (at least I assume that is the problem because I have to pull the plug cap to stop it now). I've tried to re-attach it by pushing it into the small hole on the switch assembly, but it won't stay. Guess it must have to be crimped into place somehow but it's tight quarters in there and I can't really tell how it is supposed to attach. Anybody know if a new switch assembly comes with that wire already crimped in-place or if there is a fix for my problem otherwise? Thanks!
Stihl 028 AV Kill Switch Doesn't Kill
- Thread starter HondaGuy
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SpaayDawg
ArboristSite Operative
Make sure the finger-spring on the left side of the housing is making good contact with the wire end while the wire is in place. Sometimes the spring isn't bent into the correct spot and then pushes the wire out.
To answer your question about the kill switch, the switch will just come by itself. You will have to attach the wire to the switch again.
Maybe you could get the wire in there and use some glue to affix it into place. If the killswitch is still operating the choke and the throttle-hold I'd try and keep it.
To answer your question about the kill switch, the switch will just come by itself. You will have to attach the wire to the switch again.
Maybe you could get the wire in there and use some glue to affix it into place. If the killswitch is still operating the choke and the throttle-hold I'd try and keep it.
Thanks for the reply. Not sure I understand about the spring pushing the wire out. I have a loose black wire with about 1/16 inch of bare wire showing. Most likely place I can see to attach it is the small cylindrical piece which makes up the 'inside' portion of the thumb switch which moves up and down as you flip the switch. With needlenose pliers I can push the wire into the hole on the right side of that cylinder, probably a quarter of an inch, but it won't stay in place. Looking at the cylinder, I see a small metal piece poking out of the left-hand side - maybe that's the end of the wire and it broke? Or am I trying to attach the wire in the wrong place? Sorry, don't have a shop manual, so can't tell for sure where it goes.
SpaayDawg
ArboristSite Operative
Check your PM box.
That wire should have a finished end on it, sort of like a little cylinder. That end slides into the switch housing. Is that what it looks like or is it bare wire?
It is bare wire. I think the 'finished end' is still sticking out of the left side of the switch housing and my wire broke off inside the housing and slipped out the right side. Guess I'll have to pull the finished end out and push the wire in and try to crimp or glue it into place where it will stay - assuming I've got enough slack in the wire.
OREGONLOGGER
ArboristSite Guru
In restoring old saws I find the kill switch wire to be covered in crud and sometimes grounding out. I now use a fuel grade wire when replacing as it's worth the venture to the coil or under flywheel to replace the whole wire. Heat shrink tubing over wire gives protection as well and leaves a solid kill switch wire..good luck
I've repaired these by heating the "cylinder", pulling the remaining wire piece out. Then re-soldering the kill wire back in.
What it's supposed to look like:
Pushing the "cylinder" out
Out for repair (if it was broken):
What it's supposed to look like:
Pushing the "cylinder" out
Out for repair (if it was broken):
SpaayDawg
ArboristSite Operative
:agree2: What he said...err showed. Pics rock! 
On my old 610 the kill switch didn't work and I used the choke to kill it with. You shouldn't have to pull a plug wire off.
Thanks guys - great tips, especially the pics from kr5258!
I think I will attempt to do a solder-type repair like he shows. Mine has a crimped-type end on it, but think I can just pull it out of the left side with the small bit of broken wire attached, then push my kill wire thru the cylinder and attach it with some solder where the crimped end was. I'm hoping I have enough slack in the kill wire to do that - it is pretty tight.
I think I will attempt to do a solder-type repair like he shows. Mine has a crimped-type end on it, but think I can just pull it out of the left side with the small bit of broken wire attached, then push my kill wire thru the cylinder and attach it with some solder where the crimped end was. I'm hoping I have enough slack in the kill wire to do that - it is pretty tight.
