Stihl 028 variations, will this work?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

deezlfan

Meadow River Lumber Co. 6
Joined
Jul 27, 2008
Messages
434
Reaction score
203
Location
Northern Appalachia
Have a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AV electronic quickstop. Was a runner before ''gravity + tree = busted case and handles'' experiment ended with predictable results.

Today a 028 AV electronic comes in the door, a victim of lean seize.

Can the piston and cylinder from the WB 028 AV be swapped to the other saw without major modifications? Tried to decipher the IPLs but can't tell if I have the right versions in front of me or not.
 
Have a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AV electronic quickstop. Was a runner before ''gravity + tree = busted case and handles'' experiment ended with predictable results.

Today a 028 AV electronic comes in the door, a victim of lean seize.

Can the piston and cylinder from the WB 028 AV be swapped to the other saw without major modifications? Tried to decipher the IPLs but can't tell if I have the right versions in front of me or not.

I believe the 42-44-46mm piston assys all interchange.

Might want to see if the carbs are different, stihl changed them in the 038 series as they increased bore size
 
Have a Stihl Wood Boss 028 AV electronic quickstop. Was a runner before ''gravity + tree = busted case and handles'' experiment ended with predictable results.

Today a 028 AV electronic comes in the door, a victim of lean seize.

Can the piston and cylinder from the WB 028 AV be swapped to the other saw without major modifications? Tried to decipher the IPLs but can't tell if I have the right versions in front of me or not.

I have heard that the early 42mm engines used a different connecting rod/wrist pin set up that cannot be interchanged with the later p/c combos. I have both a 42mm and a 46mm but have yet to be inside the 42mm WB to verify. That being said, all of the cylinders will bolt up to any case as long as the muffler for that specific case stays with it. There were lots of muffler bolting configurations along the way.
 
Mufflers on both saws are useable so it sounds like I need to focus on the connecting rod/bearing size. The carbs look identical but have to be removed before I can see the numbers on them. Nothing to lose at this point, I guess I will tear them down and take a look.
 
I've had a lot of 028's apart, mostly the 44mm and 46mm(Super) varieties.
The only differences that I have ever run into on some of the Supers is a 'skelatonized' machined rod not a forged rod. The machined rod version used two steel collars on the either side of the wrist pin. I was told that the saw can run without these. I have one running without the collars, one blew apart inside the saw. That saw now has a 44mm P/C
The other difference that I know of is that the 42mm saw has a shorter wrist pin.
Jim
 
Thank's guys,

The two saws went together without a problem. Waiting for an air filter assembly to tune it up but it looks like a go. The replacement filter cost more than the two saws combined......

0803100903.jpg


0803100903a.jpg
 
I just got a 028av wood boss electronic qwickstop with no spark. I ordered a coil online. And after a lot of trying got it to run. But I lost spark again. I replaced all the wiring piece by piece, but now I'm back to the coil. My question is could I have gotten it going with the wrong coil on dumb luck? And are there different coils on the 028s?
 
I think there are only 2 types of coil for that saw. The point coil and the electronic coil.
There is a slim chance you could have gotten it going if you put an electronic coil on a saw that had points and the point flywheel. The timing is different between the two flywheels, and having the points hooked up with an electronic coil would be like flicking the kill switch off and on every revolution.
Are you sure you have the right style coil? On the point coil the "coil' portion of it is round. The electronic version is roughly 1/2 round with a rectangular portion.
Maybe you have an older 028 with a newer top cover, I ended up with one like that.
Jim
 
No, no need to pull the flywheel, just cut the wire to the points and slap on the electronic coil, 0000 400 1300.
 
No, no need to pull the flywheel, just cut the wire to the points and slap on the electronic coil, 0000 400 1300.

Out of curiosity Fish, what about the timing issue mentioned above? I have four 028's of both ignition varieties and would like to convert all of em to the later style if possible (without changing flywheels). Actually, aren't there two different points-style versions too?

Poge
 
I just got a 028av wood boss electronic qwickstop with no spark. I ordered a coil online. And after a lot of trying got it to run. But I lost spark again. I replaced all the wiring piece by piece, but now I'm back to the coil. My question is could I have gotten it going with the wrong coil on dumb luck? And are there different coils on the 028s?

Double check the kill switch spring to make sure it isn't making intermittent contact with the ground wire. Been there.

Poge
 
Flywheels are different part#s, you sure that will work? If so, will it change the ign. timing?
Jim

From what I've read in my old 028/038 shop manual -- it depends. Earlier ignition system flywheels evidently were designed to accommodate two types of points systems and/or (if I understand it correctly) the later breakerless Bosch ignition by means of two keyways in the flywheel casting. One for SEM ignition setups, and another for Bosch setups. The later flywheels only accommodated the later Bosch setups and weren't backwards compatible. Not that anyone would want to re-convert back to a points ignition anyway, but the crux of the issue would seem to be which type of initial points setup was under the flywheel to begin with would determine whether you can just cut points wires and convert to the newer ignition setup. Looks like Bosch to Bosch would work just fine. SEM to Bosch would require pulling the flywheel and re-mounting with the Bosch designated keyway alignment for correct timing.
Clear as mud, right? Anyone else want to chime in?

Poge
 
Last edited:
Ok, I did some checking in the 028 parts bin. the extra flywheel that I have came off an old points version 028 (3 hole recoil) I converted that saw to electronic ignition when I got it, It was suffering from some kind of ign. break down at high RPM, and it came with a spare electronic coil and matching flywheel.
Now I have read about and experenced a few degrees of timing advance when adding an electronic control module to older point equipped saws.
This I read was due to the electronic igns. faster reaction time.

Last weekend I swapped the flywheels on it, so it now has the original "points" flywheel.
It started right up and seemed to respond exactly the same as it did with the other flywheel.
The flywheels had different part# , but both had "SEM" and "Bosch" embossed on them.
All this got me thinking, there isn't any rocket science behind the basics of how a ignition system works. the coil doesn't know part #s, it just knows that
a magnetic field passed by the primary side windings, and generated a small amount of current. The electronic portion of a coil is basically just a transistorized switch. (timing curves and rev limiting not included, but would happen after the primary current was induced)
Being that the coils on all 028 were mounted in the same relationship to TDC, it shouldn't matter more that a few degrees what coil it is. Weather or now it would run optimally is another question, even that could be solved my hand timing it with no key or using an offset key.
Let me know if I'm way off base with the above paragraph.

I have a couple late 028 Supers, I will do some more swapping of ignition components and see what happens.

Jim
 
028 Timing

Jim / Fish, et al,

These specs would seem to indicate a fairly minimal difference in timing between the systems described below. The explanations of how the systems work differently is described in detail in the old manual I have. PM me if you'd like me to shoot more info your way.

attachment.php

What I'd really like to see is a newer IPL and shop manual for the 028 Super since my material is obviously quite old!

Time for some new begging.

Poge
 
Super

I've got a later model 028 AV Super with ( i think) the coil breaking down too. Must be a common thread for this model.

It runs nice until it warms up, then bogs to mid rpm. Cold, I get a nice blue spark. After running, and able to duplicate the problem, pulled the plug quick and observed a orange spark. Hate to invest in a coil though with just this test result. Just put a whole bottom end - bearings, seals in it, with new hoses, carb kit, and the works.

Sometimes you just gotta reload and go back at it I guess.
 
I think there are only 2 types of coil for that saw. The point coil and the electronic coil.
There is a slim chance you could have gotten it going if you put an electronic coil on a saw that had points and the point flywheel. The timing is different between the two flywheels, and having the points hooked up with an electronic coil would be like flicking the kill switch off and on every revolution.
Are you sure you have the right style coil? On the point coil the "coil' portion of it is round. The electronic version is roughly 1/2 round with a rectangular portion.
Maybe you have an older 028 with a newer top cover, I ended up with one like that.
Jim

I think this spot on! Clip the wire that goes to points, Wire in kill switch and you should be good to go!! This the recommended fix from Stihl
 

Latest posts

Back
Top