stihl 029 super starts but thats it

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wetdirt

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I've got a 029 super that will start and run for a few seconds then die. It starts with the choke on and when I turn the choke off it runs for a second then dies. I took the carb apart and cleaned it. but I am sure I'm missing something. Is it a blocked passage? I put a kit in the carb that came with a needle and needle arm. I don't have the walbro guage for setting this arm. Is there another way to check and set the needle arm?Any other ideas what would cause this problem? Thanks in advance.
 
One of my favorite saws. Check all the lines fuel and impulse. They may have a pin hole or they may be all mushy and sucking shut. New filter also. then you know all that's good.

On the carb I don't have one of those things to check um with either and we've done kazillions of um. Look down in there where the arm goes and make it flush with the top of the housing at the small end of the lever. You can use anything to check it with I use a machinist's scale rule but anything will work that will fit there.

Good luck and when you do get it going run it some and have fun with it. THEN do a muffler mod on it and retune it and you'll go wild with how much it'll wake these saws up.
Joe
 
I had one that acted like that awhile back. Thought it was carb till I saw it die while it was spraying fuel under full throttle-knew it was spark intermittent then. Ohmed coil out and I could reproduce the problem by wiggling the plug wire at the plug. There is a wire inside the boot with an L bend under the boot that pierces the wire that's how it makes it's connection and that was the problem on mine. I cut a small notch thru the rubber down to the innerwire on the opposite side about midway of the L, then made several wraps with a trashbag wire tie (that i stripped the paper off of) and twisted it off. Tuck the tag end in neatly, pull the boot back over and your done. The 3 to 4 wraps hold the Lwire tightly to the plug wire, the notch keeps it from slipping, and also provides a secondary connection. Saved me from spending some money/time and has proved to be a reliable fix
 
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If all is well with the fuel lines check the muffler screen. If the muffler screen is ok go for the ignition.
 
With the needle/lever out, you need to hold the carb body up to a light, and look through that passage under the needle, then blow it out,
and look again. That passage gets partially clogged from crud introduced by the cracked fuel line.......
 
One of my favorite saws. Check all the lines fuel and impulse. They may have a pin hole or they may be all mushy and sucking shut. New filter also. then you know all that's good.

On the carb I don't have one of those things to check um with either and we've done kazillions of um. Look down in there where the arm goes and make it flush with the top of the housing at the small end of the lever. You can use anything to check it with I use a machinist's scale rule but anything will work that will fit there.

Good luck and when you do get it going run it some and have fun with it. THEN do a muffler mod on it and retune it and you'll go wild with how much it'll wake these saws up.
Joe

:msp_thumbup: Repped
 
So you guys will replace a cracked fuel line without going through the carb????

Just wondering......

To me, that's the easiest and 1st thing on the list I check. I've seen 'em look real good, only to have them crumble after they've laid on the work bench for a bit.:)
 
My 029 super is dying at low idle as well. I replaced the fuel line and filter about two years ago as it had a crack and wouldn't start at all. I noticed a hole in my air filter yesterday when fiddling with the tuning in the woods. I wonder if I sucked some crap into the carb and have something blocked off.
I think I'll hit the dealer today for a new air filter and fuel line/filter. I would love to try the Muffler mod I have heard so much about but am a little leery on not getting it tuned right and blowing up the engine. I don't have the manual anymore but would it tell me the factory settings for my adjustment screws so I can start from scratch?
Thanks for any help. I have been searching the threads all morning and have seen and read some great stuff. Especially Fish's pictorial of the carb.
 
While your at the dealer, grab a carb kit too. It's always good to replace the diaphram and clean the carb if you had a cracked line. MM are real easy for this saw. If your close to me, down by Ohio bring the saw by and we can wake it up.
 
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