Stihl 031 pulsing

[HarleyT]

No, the Kawasaki chip works on the 032, I have only used the Stihl chip on the 031s, I get them off of old junk 009,010,011 saws.

 

[Isidro]

Ok, I just ordered a Stihl chip. From the photo I can not tell which one is the positive lead and the negative lead. Please advise if you will. Maybe once I have it in my hand it will be clear which is which.

Thank you, Tony

 

[Isidro]

it could be that it does not matter. It might be that the chip grounds itself once you secure it to the saw body? Then there are two leads, one going to the coil and the other going to the kill switch?

Sorry to keep bothering you, Tony

 

[HarleyT]

Yes, it grounds where it bolts on. Here is a pic of one with a broken chip, but it shows how it is wired.

 

[Isidro]

thank you, I got it. I will let you know how it goes once I receive the chip and get it installed.

Stay safe, and thank you, Tony

 

[Fuzy6525]

I used the single pin Rotary brand to convert my 028 and it runs fine on the old flywheel. Took out the points and condenser, took out the wires and screwed it onto the back bolt that attaches to the coil to ground it.

 

[stihltech]

Did you switch the positive and negative wires on the module
? Always had to do it on an 031 conversion.

 

[HarleyT]

Wow, StihlTech!!!
Where have you been at?

 

[Isidro]

I used the single pin Rotary brand to convert my 028 and it runs fine on the old flywheel. Took out the points and condenser, took out the wires and screwed it onto the back bolt that attaches to the coil to ground it.

Thank you for getting back to me. I am going down the same road you did for your 028. Just wait for a different and new chip.

Tony

 

[Fuzy6525]

Did you switch the positive and negative wires on the module
? Always had to do it on an 031 conversion.

Did not. Hooked it up per diagram.

 

[Fuzy6525]

Thank you for getting back to me. I am going down the same road you did for your 028. Just wait for a different and new chip.

Tony

Had a time with mine. Had spark but apparently not enough. Used the chip as a last resort after changing carb , pulse line and only then did I realize I didn’t have GOOD spark. Not blue enough. Good luck with yours. I love my ole 028.

 

[Isidro]

Did not. Hooked it up per diagram.

thank you for getting back to me. I have been know to do that so this morning I checked. I check the diagram and chip and this time I got it right.

Tony

 

[stihltech]

Wow, StihlTech!!!
Where have you been at?

Took a break. When it gets competitive on here, I'm out. Just want to help. Learned a lot since 81.

 

[Isidro]

Some advise, please,
I am out of ideas. My saw will start but I cannot get it to idle right. I have pressure test the body core, no leaks. I did not replace any oil seals. I exchange the existing carb with a good and working carburetors, problem still persists. I have pressure tested to tank and fuel line and replaced the impulse line and inspected the manifold rubber that makes the connection to the cylinder and carb. I even replaced the clutch. I took out the points and capacitor and installed an electronic chip, I have great spark. I can turn down the idle and readjust the carb low speed screw but the pulsing continues or I get things turned down too much and the saw dyes. The saw starts right up but is really not working correctly. The saw runs long enough to get hot. My skill level has been exceeded and do not know what to try next. It could be I should start from the beginning and retest everything again. My goal is to not drive the saw down to my Stihl shop and drop it off. Any thoughts or recommendation would be greatly appreciated.

Thank you, Tony

I received great advice and recommendations for so many, thank you all for taking the time out of your busy schedule to support my efforts.

I would like to give you all a short update. I have not yet fix my problem. My saw starts, still cannot set the idle and the saw runs extremely hot. I have changed out the chip, swapped carbs, advanced the timing, and then gone back to the original timing. Those are my significant efforts but did a number of small tweaks in an effort to rule out other issues. I stayed with the original fly wheel and replaced the chip with a Nova chip.

Question; can I have a wrong part, i.e., flywheel, coil, piston, cylinder, etc, etc? I can check all my part numbers and take detailed measurements to rule this out. Clearly there is something significantly wrong that has created these problems, bad idle and the engine running very hot but I am at a lost. Any more advise would be greatly appreciated.

I still have one other option, take the saw to my local Stihl shop, they are very good. But that would be hitting the easy button and I am not there yet.

 

[Fuzy6525]

I received great advice and recommendations for so many, thank you all for taking the time out of your busy schedule to support my efforts.

I would like to give you all a short update. I have not yet fix my problem. My saw starts, still cannot set the idle and the saw runs extremely hot. I have changed out the chip, swapped carbs, advanced the timing, and then gone back to the original timing. Those are my significant efforts but did a number of small tweaks in an effort to rule out other issues. I stayed with the original fly wheel and replaced the chip with a Nova chip.

Question; can I have a wrong part, i.e., flywheel, coil, piston, cylinder, etc, etc? I can check all my part numbers and take detailed measurements to rule this out. Clearly there is something significantly wrong that has created these problems, bad idle and the engine running very hot but I am at a lost. Any more advise would be greatly appreciated.

I still have one other option, take the saw to my local Stihl shop, they are very good. But that would be hitting the easy button and I am not there yet.

When I changed from points to single spade electronic chip(not Nova) on my 028 it did seem to run a little hot but did not have the top cover on that I assumed would help in cooling when I put it back on. Will run today or tomorrow to see if it cools down. But other than that it’s running great. Mine had a thicker part in one of the wires cut that I’m wondering was a resistor of some sort. After that’s cut maybe the spark is a little hot but I’m definitely not qualified to say that might be a cause. Seems like the chip would be “tuned” to that. Might need to walk away for a day and come back and check again for vacuum/ pressure leaks. Impulse line, vent lines, filters and such.

 

[Isidro]

When I changed from points to single spade electronic chip(not Nova) on my 028 it did seem to run a little hot but did not have the top cover on that I assumed would help in cooling when I put it back on. Will run today or tomorrow to see if it cools down. But other than that it’s running great. Mine had a thicker part in one of the wires cut that I’m wondering was a resistor of some sort. After that’s cut maybe the spark is a little hot but I’m definitely not qualified to say that might be a cause. Seems like the chip would be “tuned” to that. Might need to walk away for a day and come back and check again for vacuum/ pressure leaks. Impulse line, vent lines, filters and such.

Thank you for responding to my post. Great recommendation, I will "pause" for a couple of days and then check both vacuum and pressure. I will keep you posted on the outcome.

Again, thank you, Tony

 

[HarleyT]

So you got a Stihl chip?

 

[Isidro]

Thank you for getting back to me. No, I order one but it has not arrived. I have a Nova chip so I install that. I first tried a single prong chip but changed it out with the Nova, problem still persisted. I have spark but there is still something wrong with the saw. I am think of changing out the body - flywheel, cylinder, piston, clutch, coil, and more. Then see what happens. If I do that I will use my new Stihl chip if it does not have one.

Thank you, Tony

 

[SteveSr]

Thank you for responding to my post. Great recommendation, I will "pause" for a couple of days and then check both vacuum and pressure. I will keep you posted on the outcome.

Again, thank you, Tony

If you want to prove/disprove timing once and for all get an old fashioned timing light, mark the case and FW for TDC, and measure the actual timing with the saw running and compare that to the specs in the manual. It would also be a good reference when your new chip arrives.

 

[Isidro]

If you want to prove/disprove timing once and for all get an old fashioned timing light, mark the case and FW for TDC, and measure the actual timing with the saw running and compare that to the specs in the manual. It would also be a good reference when your new chip arrives.

Thank you for your excellent recommendation. I once had a timing light. I sure I can track one down. I need to research the timing specs for a 031. Right now I do not know that. I will keep you posted on my progress.

Again, thank you, Tony