Stihl 044 10mm Meteor Piston

[zslnk]

Hello,
I'm rebuilding my friends 044 slant fin 10mm saw due to a scuffed exhaust side of the piston. The piston could be re-used but it's pretty marked up. I talked him into a rebuild to ensure that the original jug doesn't get wrecked. The tear-down shows that the cylinder is perfect save for some pitting that looks to be from manufacture.

I ordered a new Meteor 10mm replacement and it came with Caber F rings but the issue is that the window in the piston for the wrist pin is wider than the connecting rod. I read an old thread from 6-8yrs ago that said Meteor had fixed this but the one I got has the wide window in it. Is this a problem? The connecting rod floats on the crank bearing so I don't want to worry that the rod is walking left and right during operation.
Thanks

 

[pioneerguy600]

Meteor has not corrected this problem even though many have contacted them about this issue.

 

[Jasent]

I like the hyway pistons. Caber rings are a must on my builds

 

[huskihl]

I like the hyway pistons. Caber rings are a must on my builds

Hyway are wide also just like the Meteor. I have a Hyway and 3 Meteors in 10mm 044’s and all is good so far. The one with the Hyway piston probably gets the most use and I haven’t heard back with any problems

 

[zslnk]

Thanks for the feedback.
I'll run the Meteor piston and Caber F rings. Ring end gap is 0.007" and no gasket squish is about 0.018" so I'll home brew a skinny gasket, re-seal, vac/pressure test and hope it rips.

 

[L34]

Haven't people had spacers made before?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Haven't people had spacers made before?

Yes to that.

 

[grizz55chev]

Yes to that.

Are spacers necessary?

 

[pioneerguy600]

Are spacers necessary?

No, from my experience and that of others these pistons have performed very well and long service without spacers. Some were fitted with spacers just as a trial to see if they would last or if it made some feel safer but I have not come across one instance where they were necessary. For many years I among others have swapped in pistons of various makes into chainsaw engines, some needed the clearance opened up to allow the rod end to fit while others were excessive already, all seemed to give good long service.

 

[rocketnorton]

made spacers for mine, either uhmw or teflon, cant remember
meteor in it

 

[L34]

So it doesn't show to much bearing from one side to the other?

 

[drf255]

The problem is that the meteor 10mm piston is just a 12mm slug with a 10mm pin bore drilled. The wider pin bosses are to fit the 12mm small rod end.

Even though the issue is there, I haven’t seen a real breakdown in a saw from it. The piston is a lot heavier than an oem 12mm casting though.

 

[J D]

If one were to make spacers what would the best material be?

 

[rocketnorton]

So it doesn't show to much bearing from one side to the other?

the rollers didnt show outside rod, just the cage
rollers would be right @ edge

 

[albert]

Metal spacers on high rpm saws no good. They saw into the wrist pin.

 

[J D]

Metal spacers on high rpm saws no good. They saw into the wrist pin.

I had a growing suspicion of that... Did one a while ago & made them out of SS. Saw hasn't been run much, guess it's coming apart again & I'll have to find something else to make them outta

 

[albert]

The problem is that the meteor 10mm piston is just a 12mm slug with a 10mm pin bore drilled. The wider pin bosses are to fit the 12mm small rod end.

Even though the issue is there, I haven’t seen a real breakdown in a saw from it. The piston is a lot heavier than an oem 12mm casting though.

I have a meteor in one also, only have about 6 tanks on it, 10mm lower with a 12mm jug. Mostly stock with base gasket, but the 10mm muffler. Plently of zip, nice and light.