Stihl 046 won't run after rebuild.....please help?

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Mitch Hall

ArboristSite Member
Joined
May 18, 2014
Messages
62
Reaction score
18
Picked up an old 046. I checked the compression and it was at 90lbs so I recently replac d the piston/rings, coil and rebuilt the carb. It started up with some starting fluid and idled but kept bogging and dying when I tried to throttle up a bit. After about 6-7 times it stopped running all together and wouldn't fire even with either. It finally flooded so badly that I had to pull the jug and empty the full crankcase. I replaced the jug and checked the ignition for spark then changed the plug but no luck at all. Also, the decamp valve looks leaky. After the rebuild I noticed no change in compression. Thoughts?
 
Sounds like multiple issue at play here. Definitely don't run it if the decomp is leaking. You need to do a pressure/vac test and find your leaks. BTW starter fluid is never recommended on a saw. Just squirt a little mix in the carb throat.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Right. I'm really confused at how it ran at first and then just quit. I just ordered a new decomp valve. What is the best way to run a leak check?
 
where are you located? there might be a member near by that can give you some help.
 
I would re-check the compression, pressure test the carbs pop off pressure and re-check the high/low needle settings.
 
I think it fired because there was some assembly lube in the cylinder and that helped compression at first. Either washed it all away. You say the compression is the same after rebuild? A saw will not usually run at 90# compression.
 
Right. I'm really confused at how it ran at first and then just quit. I just ordered a new decomp valve. What is the best way to run a leak check?

Spraying soapy water around suspected leaks works pretty good. You'll see bubbling as you're pulling the saw over. This would work to check your compression release.
 
Ok, I'll change out the decomp valve and run another compression check. If it's still low I'll start looking for other leaks. Are there common areas on this particular saw that tend to leak?
 
I
Spraying soapy water around suspected leaks works pretty good. You'll see bubbling as you're pulling the saw over. This would work to check your compression release.
definitely see oily spray around undo the decomp.
 
The problem could well be the comp. release. You can always plug the hole, they make plugs for that. Might be easier to spot the leak. I don't think a leak anywhere else on the saw would cause low compression except the spark plug and compression release. I assume you have the cylinder bolted down good on the case and sealed with a gasket or sealer.
 
Yep. New piston, rings and base gasket snugged down good. No change in compression. I'm beginning to think its the decomp too. It really flooded worse than I've seen before. Crazy thing is, it ran for a few minutes on and off them just gave up.
 
Ive seen saws run for a while with the decomp stuck completely open. Did you recheck the piston after running it like that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ive seen saws run for a while with the decomp stuck completely open. Did you recheck the piston after running it like that?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I did. No issues noted but it will not crank at all now.
 
Just installed a new decomp valve and rechecked the compression. It's showing 125 or so now
 
Back
Top