Stihl 050 AV Oiler Issues

[Houthakker]

My Stihl O50 AV doesn't seem to be getting oil to the bar or chain. I can run down the gas tank and not need to fill the oil tank.

This saw has an automatic oiler on it with a lever to adjust the amount. Even it if is fully on the + side or fully on the - side, no oil seems to be getting through.

Any suggestions on how to make it work?

Thanks.

 

[William Balaska]

The clutch needs to alighn with a worm gear that in turn turns the pump, or the oil pump could have bad orings. It slides out by the bar, remove the cover and pull the pump with a 5mm bolt and replace the seals, and make sure the worm gear and clutch are aligned properly

 

[bullseye13]

Be sure to check that the oil hole in the bar not clogged with junk. One way to tell if you need to tear it apart is if you run it briefly without the bar and chain and no oil comes out, then its time to dissassemble the oiler.

 

[Houthakker]

Thank You

Thanks so much to William and Bullseye13 for these really helpful responses. I had cleaned the bar already and I'll give it a try by running it without the bar and chain, but my feeling is that the problem is not just a clog - no oil at all seems to be getting through.

Do I need to remove the clutch to get to the oil pump? How do I loosen the clutch? I understand that there is a special tool you need to use in the spark plug hole? Is this correct? Do I need a special Stihl tool for this or is there a way around it?

Do you think it could be a problem with the clutch? or with the worm gear? For the orings, I suppose I need to pick some up from the Stihl parts dealer or can I use more generic ones?

One more question: what size bar do you recommend on this saw, the 050 AV?

Thanks. Sorry for all the questions. You guys have already moved me miles along on this.

Much appreciated.

 

[djmercer1]

to access the oil pump, there is a plastic plug on the front of the saw, behind the inner dawg (if installed). remove the plug, there is a c-clip and the pump comes out(may need to thread a m5 bolt into it). on the pump, there is a rubber ring and a couple of o-rings that can be replaced. the oil pump lever metering control lever could also fail and cause a lack of oil, i think so check that also.

to block the cylider you can used either a piston stop threaded into the spark plug hole(either metal or plastic), but the best method ive seen is to feed some braided rope into cylinder once its beyond the transfer passages.

to remove the clutch, there is a special tool or you can make one. the best ive seen made is a socket with 3 of 6 sides cut out, i bought a ac pulley wrench for gm cars and that works very well. you dont need to remove the clutch for oil pump access, you do need to remove the clutch for oil pump worm access. you lack of oil could also be broken pins that couple the oil pump worm and clutch sprocket.

i think according to the user manual, the 051 carries a 17" to 30" bar, but it has plenty of torque to carry the 36" bar i use here, mostly softwoods though. someone else with more experience with the saw should answer this, id also like to hear.

if you want a pdf of the manual, send me a pm and i can send it to you along with some other documentation for the 1111 series of saws.

im still on the hunt for a serivce manual for my 048 if anyone has that....

 

[William Balaska]

I have an original owner's manual for an 050 if you need part numbers. The orings should be the same on the 051, as well

 

[William Balaska]

One more thing, if you get oil in the crankcase(bar oil) the seals are definitely bad, also check you vent

 

[andrewh]

I have checked the oil output on 440 and took the bar off and filled with paint thinner to wash anything out of the lines then fill with some oil and see if there is any improvement

 

[Houthakker]

Thank you, again

Thanks so much to everyone for this. I feel like the job is done just by reading all the helpful replies.

What are the 'significant differences' between the 050 AV and the 051 AV?

Also, just wondering, how would the 050 AV stack up to the 066 today? (Probably no comparison, I'm thinking.)

 

[William Balaska]

051 is basically the same saw. The 051 was introduced in 1972 so your saw is older than that. 5.8hp for the 050, 7.0hp for the 066 or ms660. They are two different saws. The ms460 is closer in comparison HP wise the 660 will smoke the 050 and is alot lighter and revs to 13k, probably versus 9500 to 10k. I have a couple of 051's I like them and I have an 076 they're 7HP with major torque. I have one for sale in the trading post, take a look

 

[djmercer1]

One more thing, if you get oil in the crankcase(bar oil) the seals are definitely bad, also check you vent

i doubt the 050 has a vent for the gas or bar oil tank. my 051 simply has a small hole in the cap to vent the tank vacuums.

051 is basically the same saw. The 051 was introduced in 1972 so your saw is older than that. 5.8hp for the 050, 7.0hp for the 066 or ms660. They are two different saws. The ms460 is closer in comparison HP wise the 660 will smoke the 050 and is alot lighter and revs to 13k, probably versus 9500 to 10k. I have a couple of 051's I like them and I have an 076 they're 7HP with major torque. I have one for sale in the trading post, take a look

no doubt the 066 has the hp and chain speed advantage, but what about torque? how do the 051 and 066 handle/perform side by side when the wood gets large with big bars, or for milling?

 

[William Balaska]

Yes the vent is in the cap, but they do clog! The 066 has more torque than the 051, I have both, the 660 will outmill it