Do you have a spare carb?
The 1111 series saws are rev limited via the carb. At at a threshold RPM the vibrations cause a control valve to open and the air/fuel mixture is made richer to prevent the RPMs climbing any further. It sounds like your control valve might be opening and not shutting again when it gets hot causing your saw to flood.
It is possible to bypass the control valve with an aluminium shim.[/QUOTE]
So the saga continues, I have replaced the iginition with one off a TS760 which seems to work better.
JDNicol, I don't have a spare carb, I removed the control valve and it seemed to be sticking, I tried freeing it up by poking around, spraying parts cleaner, and compressed air in but it seems that all I did was to make it stick open now, doesn't even work part of the time. When I try to start the saw it is totally flooded even with both the H and L screws set all the way IN. So my question is how can I do the aluminum shim bypass?
I have done a compression test and am getting 140+ psi.
The 1111 series saws are rev limited via the carb. At at a threshold RPM the vibrations cause a control valve to open and the air/fuel mixture is made richer to prevent the RPMs climbing any further. It sounds like your control valve might be opening and not shutting again when it gets hot causing your saw to flood.
It is possible to bypass the control valve with an aluminium shim.[/QUOTE]
So the saga continues, I have replaced the iginition with one off a TS760 which seems to work better.
JDNicol, I don't have a spare carb, I removed the control valve and it seemed to be sticking, I tried freeing it up by poking around, spraying parts cleaner, and compressed air in but it seems that all I did was to make it stick open now, doesn't even work part of the time. When I try to start the saw it is totally flooded even with both the H and L screws set all the way IN. So my question is how can I do the aluminum shim bypass?
I have done a compression test and am getting 140+ psi.