Stihl 08S workshop manual

[user 91883]

Hi
Can anyone help me out with a workshop manual, I've had this saw in the shed for over 10 years now and decided to get it running again, however i seem to have no spark, got most of it apart but my pullers wont fit in the holes in the timing cover, so have not been able to get that off yet, any tips welcome. I have tried the plug in my 029 and it sparks ok .
Thanks in anticipation
Pete

 

[Eddy_t]

Pullers? Just use a screwdriver if it's points! If not points, it's the ignition system that's buggered


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[user 91883]

Thanks Eddy
Assumed it would be electronic, however reshaped my pullers and got flywheel off, only to reveal under a small rubber gromet a set of points, I found this after I had removed the backing plate from the saw, 2 screws in slots, which I pressume is to alter timing.
When I worked out where the highest part of the cam was the points didn't open at all, so set gap to 0.015 and got something of a spark but not brilliant.
You can only see the points gap when you have gone past TDC, by my measure this was 35mm out of total circumference of 350mm = 10% roughly, or 35 degrees after tDC is this way too much for points to be fully open?
How do I check where the backing plate should be set?
Also stripped carb and cleaned, put in new spark plug, swilled out petrol tank, fueled up and prayed.
Nothing!!! petrol is getting up into carb, in fact it was dripping out the back after about 20/30 pulls.
Given up in disgust for today, and hoping for someone to put me straight.

 

[William Balaska]

Clean the points with a diamond dust brush. You don't even have to remove the flywheel just go through the inspection hole that's used for adjustment. Clean them it will spark if not replace them or usa a nova module. The carb is a Tillotson and will need a kit.

 

[Eddy_t]

There are windows on the flywheel for inspecting the points, although I thought the points gap was 0.4mm (about 0.02") and should be set about 3mm bTDC. If you turn the stator plate anti-clockwise it advances the ignition, and clockwise retards it.
When you say fuel is dripping out the back? Have you reset the carb screws to 1 turn out?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[user 91883]

William
Cleaned points with emery, probably could have done a better job so will perhaps take them out and do them properly.
Thought diaphrams looked ok, but will consider getting a kit.

Eddy
You could well be right about the gap, is the 3mm BTDC you mention when the points are fully open or when they start to open?
And yes I set the carb screws to 1 turn.
Thanks for your input guys.
Pete

 

[William Balaska]

Drain all the fuel out and try it on prime with it choked. Emery cloth is ok I just prefer the brush so I don't have to pull the flywheel. It's probably flooded

 

[user 91883]

OK not had chance to get back to the problem , but a thought has just occurred to me,, does it make any difference to the running of the saw whether the tank vent is fitted or not.
When I took it apart there was no vent fitted, and I haven't got around to sorting one out yet, but will the carb draw in more fuel without it fitted? or will it make no difference?
I look forward to someone putting me right with this one.
Thank's
Pete

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Rebuild the carb.
Tillotson Kit # RK88-HL

Tank vent is nothing more than a piece of fuel line with grub screw inserted.

I've had to replace the condensor on a couple 08/08S/S10's.

 

[user 91883]

Tank vent is nothing more than a piece of fuel line with grub screw inserted.

Yes but does it affect the way a saw will run if it is not fitted?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

No.

If it's missing, there isn't an issue pulling fuel. It's when the vent becomes PLUGGED that the issues arise!!

 

[Eddy_t]

William
Cleaned points with emery, probably could have done a better job so will perhaps take them out and do them properly.
Thought diaphrams looked ok, but will consider getting a kit.

Eddy
You could well be right about the gap, is the 3mm BTDC you mention when the points are fully open or when they start to open?
And yes I set the carb screws to 1 turn.
Thanks for your input guys.
Pete

Fully open. Secondly, check that you've reassembled the carb correctly, if the fuel feed and strainer are slightly out, it'll stop the saw from running. Then check the impulse is clear (the gaskets can fuzz up the hole).
Have you checked for a spark? You need to open the plug quite wide as the coil produces about 40,000 volts, a spark tester is no good, I nearly blew up my local dealers zat4 when we tested my 090


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[John Wagstaff]

Hi
Can anyone help me out with a workshop manual, I've had this saw in the shed for over 10 years now and decided to get it running again, however i seem to have no spark, got most of it apart but my pullers wont fit in the holes in the timing cover, so have not been able to get that off yet, any tips welcome. I have tried the plug in my 029 and it sparks ok .
Thanks in anticipation
Pete

Hi Pete, the correct plug for the 08s is an NGK B6HS, these are readily available at all good spares shops and online for only a couple of quid, (incidentally have a read of this, it applies to all small bore engines ( http://www.briggsandstratton.com/us/en/support/faqs/ignition-system-theory-and-testing ) if you want an owners manual and a parts list, email me at [email protected] and I'll send them in PDF form to your email address. The correct puller is available from loads of places online for a few pounds, the correct puller is highly recommended, I purchased my off ebay for £8.00 about 4 years ago, using the correct puller doesn't damage anything and more importantly protects the thread at both ends of the crankshaft. New crank shaft is over £40 non genuine and £150 genuine.

 

[John Wagstaff]

Just another point to mention the points can be totally replaced with an electronic module.

 

[user 91883]

Update. Found time today to have another look at saw, decided to pull flywheel again, removed points and got them polished up nice. Managed to get gap set to 0.015, bl**** tricky with 2 small slot's in flywheel. Then worked out where TDC was and did a static timing test, had point's starting to open at about 33mm before TDC, then turned stator plate as far anti-clockwise as it would go,this looked something like more sensible I thought, so I made up a new tank vent, put everything back together, and gave it a go. Anyway it fired on the second pull and was running on the third pull, (one smug b****** here). I just ran out of daylight to be able to get the carb tuned up so it will run properly, it's not quite right, but for a saw that has't run in 15 years it's near on a miracle.

Eddy, when I had the flywheel back on I could get sparks form just turning the flywheel by hand.
Thanks John will email you, and have a read of Briggs and Stratton.
Pete

 

[Eddy_t]

Yup, the old coil, condenser and points are mean things! The workshop spec is 44kV, my 051 can arc a few inches if not connected properly!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[user 91883]

OK had chance to give it a good go now, and it seems to work well, cuts very well.
Now I can't seem to get it tuned up, just when I think I have got it about right, I put it down to move a log , pick it up again and it seems to be running rich, keep tweaking it but can't get it spot on. It has a govener on, will this make any difference to the tune up? should I disconnect to tune up, or disconnect altogether?
Thank's Pete

 

[user 91883]

OK So no one has an opinion on a carb with a governor?????
Still cant get it to tune up right, just about think you are there and then it's miles out.
Opinion on the web seems contradictory, some say tune L first, other's Tune H first,
Some say tune with governor disconnected, other's leave it on.
No wonder I'm getting confused!!
What is the consensus on here among expert's, who I guess are tweaking their carb's on a regular basis???
Thank's in hope of a reply,Pete

 

[Eddy_t]

I rarely tweak mine. First reset the carb to default (1 turn), then set the idle screw to keep it running. The governor kicks in when the saw is overspeeding, so get a tach, and check what speed the governor kicks in at. If that's too low, you need to tension the spring (about 8k rpm).


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk