Probably a bad carburetor. See my "Dirt Cheap Carb Fix" thread. If you try my solution and that fails, I'll buy your saw for whatever price below $400 that you think that your MS361 is worth. Good luck, Sparky.I dont really feel like I have over looked anything I went through a elimination process as I would with anything i'm working on. The compression is reading 130 that stands out to be the problem to me. I also used two different testers and both yielded the same result. I know the gas is good because I used some of the same gas in my other saws and weedeaters the past couple of days. I will agree these 361s are great saws. I am very pleased with this one.
Probably a bad carburetor. See my "Dirt Cheap Carb Fix" thread... Good luck, Sparky.
However, even at "130 psi" compression it should still start and run, even if at low power. Also, I don't trust many compression testers these days. Many of them do not work.I don't get how cleaning the carb will fix his low compression? There's only two things that would cause low compression. Bad decomp or (most likely) a melted piston.
If that was my saw the cylinder would be off for inspection already. Then we'd at least know what's going on in there.
Most of the saws that I have rebuilt can be inspected without pulling the cylinder. Just examine the piston and rings after removing the muffler. I think OP did that about 20 posts ago. Results seemed inconclusive. No Pics appeared here.Okay. Maybe I'm wrong. But... Let's just say the saw got hot, causing a small amount of damage to the piston, and the resulting low compression makes the saw hard to start. What happens if he gets the saw running at 130 psi? What will happen? I would think (I might not be very smart, so please bear with me) that it would only serve to cause more damage to the piston, and possibly the cylinder.
I don't see why so many people on this sight will spend hours and hours trying to figure out why a saw has low compression, but won't spend 30 min. to an hour pulling the cylinder off and inspecting it the right way? It's a little bit of a pain in the butt, but it's worth it to me.
You didn't answer my question. Given the fact that it's quite simple to pull a cylinder, why do so many people advise against it. At least piston/cylinder damage could be ruled out. He's already been scratching his head and fiddling around with the saw for 2 or 3 days. What's 2 hours to be sure there's nothing wrong inside?Most of the saws that I have rebuilt can be inspected without pulling the cylinder. Just examine the piston and rings after removing the muffler. I think OP did that about 20 posts ago. Results seemed inconclusive. No Pics appeared here.
Like I said, "on the piston I saw some scorching and some light scoring". And I'm not sure why anyone thinks it is for sale. I do not buy something then when it tears up sell it to someone else. If you have a 361 that runs good then fantastic! Why worry about buying mine to begin with?
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