Stihl 361 Problems

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Noah

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The Stihl 361 is a new model that just came out this year, so there isn't a whole lot of info on it yet. So, I thought that others may benefit from a little more info from my personal experiences.

When I first bought it, I asked the owner of the shop to adjust it and to start it up in front of me so that I know that its going to start for me when I get home. He went out back and it took at least 20 minutes before I heard the engine start. He reved it for a while, while I winced knowing that the manuals for other saws that I've read warn not to rev the engine out of wood until it's broken in. I rationalized that this guys been in business for many years and knows about his products more than I do. He finally came in and took me out in the parking lot and showed me how to start it, etc. When I got to the car, I tried and it wouldn't start. I took it back in and he had his shop tech look at it. He couldn't either. After blowing it out, changing the plug, and repeatedly drop pulling it w/one hand, it finally started 15 minutes later.

Since then, I've had it back there 3 times for the same problem. With a cold engine, it usually took between 5 and 45 minutes to get it started. It floods too easily, and seems to have a weak spark, but once its warm it normally fires right up. At first I chocked it up to user error, but not now. Its NOT my fault. I've had techs from Stihl USA on the phone walking me through with a cold engine, and also the distributer. The owner of the shop says that since the gvt passed more pollution standards, its difficult for the engineers to build a new 2 cycle engine that meets those standards and functions well. AS for me that might be true, but that's not my problem. I didn't pay $569 so that I could wonder whether or not I can start and complete a job from day to day.

That said, I complained enough and demanded a replacement or a refund and they agreed over the phone. Since then I spent a weekend cutting up some weeping willow and since then it starts pretty easily. Pull a couple of times with choke on until the false start. Then switch up to start. Pull a couple of more times and it starts right up. However, now once its idlling hot for a while it occassionally stalls and once in a while is a bugger to start back up again. It wants to flood. BTW, I'm not choking it again.

Another problem is the lack of bar oil. If you hold the bar over a dry surface long enough you can eventually see oil comming off of it. However, if I stop it in wood, turn it off, and feel the bottom of the bar underside of chain and links, my fingers are nearly always dry. Top side is OK, but by the time that chain rounds the nose, when in big wood, its dry. I call it planned obsellecence. Wear out those chains and bars faster.

Those were the low points. When I first got it, it was weak and dissappointing in the torque and speed. But as it broke in it increased in power two fold. It now can do anything that I ask it to do. I've put it into seasoned cherry, walnut and oak, and as long as it has a sharp chain, it will handle it with its 20" bar. Nice thing about it is that it is also light enough for me to cut fire wood too. It might be the upper limit for a firewood saw and lowest end for downing, but for anyone wanting a good all around chain saw, I can recommend it IF you can find one that starts right out of the box and keeps on going.

At this point I might just keep it IF they can fix it so that it will start easily all the time w/a warm engine. What do you think?

Hope this was a help to anyone considering the 361.
 
dang rite .. a good post..
this is what we need .. altho ,myself ,i would not be happy ,as its new, man ..
i would have gone to an different saw, .. dang sure is a distance from an 026 or 036,,that i know to run and work much better.
is it possible u just got one thats not typical..
sorry but im spoiled ,by saws that just crank an work without worrying about
sweating what its gonna do..
a saw that makes me sweat before i ever get started working.. just aint gonna stay in my lineup.. after u get it really rite, i would love to have it..
good luck
some know im hung up on my 372 henry special.. but if it caused me to sweat,, what it was gona do each time ,it would have to go..
but it dont ,and it aintgoing nowhere..:) :)
of course anybody reading my other post,,knows im very well aware most problems are lack of user knowledge..
ie. an failed front bar sprocket that just fooled me as to what my saw was doing.. :)
 
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I don't think that is likely typical for Stihls new 361. The one Jokers had at the tailgate party Saturday sure wasn't hard to start or restart warm. That dealer is sure missing something if he allows you to suffer that kind of problem.

Look at the thread on chainsaw "too much fuel or not enought spark" for some good ideas about what might be the problem.
 
I would trade it back in for a new one and make them start it a number of times before you take it home
 
Sorry to hear about your problems Noah. I have to agree with shalenkur though, I would not have left with that saw. You must have gotten a lemon as I have had nothing but good luck with mine. I would make them give you a new one. There may be other things wrong with it that will show up later.
 
I agree with the guys who told you to give it back. There is definitely an issue with that particular saw.

I`ve had nothing but a good experience with the 361 and heard the same from everyone else I`ve spoken with who has run this model.

Russ
 
I agree with all of you. If I didn't need it for a job the very next day after buying it, I would have either walked away or got another 361. As things were at the time, they didn't have another 361 in stock. I was backed into a corner at that point and my big back up saw was down too (unrelated problem). Sad thing was that they didn't have a loner either.

At this point you all confirmed what I've been thinking too. Even though it starts OK now, it may have another related issue; and even if they can get it to where it REstarts 100% for now, later I'm afraid that it might have problems that will show up out of warantee. So, I'll be turning it back in for a replacement right after Thanksgiving.

I know that others have complained about the lack of oil to the bar in other threads, but I want to get you guys' scoop. I told techs at Stihl USA about it and they say that it's made in Germany, so to refrase what they say (to quote that German on Hogan's Heros), "I Know Nufving!" But they also say that its enough for the bar if you can see a line on a dry surface w/the typical check. The environment is helped, yada yada. The high heat part puzzles them, but after all they don't make that model, its those crazy German's fault. The distributer adds to their claim by saying that it's normal that the chain and bar should get too hot to touch after extended use. Also the bar w/be blue along the edge because of heat treatment at the factory.

This has caused me to modify the way I sometimes cut. If the situation is appropriate and I'm chunking a large hardwood, I've been starting from underneath and setting the rear grip up against me. That way the well oiled top is getting most of the friction. I tried this after I noticed sparks flying off of the bottom side while cutting at dusk in both black walnut AND soft as cream puff weeping willow. Not much, but still sparks. Maybe someone has the answer, but I know for a fact that there was absolutely no fence, wire, bullets, nails, etc. in that wood. What could be causing those sparks to fly? I don't know. Could it be the dry chain against a dry underside of the bar?

While all of what those techs say may be true, this is the hottest bar of any saw I've ever used. I know that it might be tough to tell, but my concern is that since I can't always see oil on the pins/links(?), on the under side, that it isn't enough oil to travel that distance and therefore the life of the chain and bar is shortened. What they call in industry, "planned obsollecence". It happens in any major industry. ie. Cars have certain parts that wear out at a certain time right after the warantee expires, so that you are forced to buy more parts from the company, or are more likely to buy another car sooner that you would like to. This is hard to prove, but does anyone have enough experience with the newer low oil eco-earth-friendly-tree-hugging versions compared to their older oil-chugging model? Also, what do you think about the little fireworks under the bar? It was nearly continuous on the walnut, but less and intermittant on the willow. And, yes, the chain tension was correct and no burrs.

Best regards
 
Occasionally I'll see a spark from the bar. Oil limits the friction but it is still metal sliding on metal (don't give the the oil film stuff, I know how it works and sparks mean contact) and you will have some wear. The oil film limits the wear but doesn't stop it completely. My 360 has an adjustable oiler which I turn all the way up. In fact I turn all of my oilers all the way up. Oil is cheaper than bars, chains and sprockets. A friend of mine has a 361 and it has been really dependable and easy to start. You shouldn't have to chase problems with a new saw. Get another 361 and happy cutting.
 
Noah,

Used my new 361 today, at 9 am this morning it was -11 C, 2 pulls on choke and 1 on run and away we went. I agree with you on the size thing (little to big for limbing) and also agree with the statement that it is a good all purpose saw.

I also noticed that the fuel tank ran out before the bar oil tank ran out. I would assume (maybe incorretly) that if you are using a bar in the manufactuers recommended size for the saw, the fuel and oil tanks should run out at about the same time. I am like you and would rather pay for oil than repair parts;)

I did also saw sparks coming off the bar, so I dialed up the oiler and that cured the problem. All in all I was impressed with the performance, considering this thing was out-of-the-box. So once its broke in I believe I may become real happy. Our other saws have treated us real well, even though some weren't STIHL.

The other 3 things to remember is, Maintenance-Maintenance_MAINTENANCE

Good luck with getting your saw issues dealt with.

Brent
 
Noah:
My first 361 was a little hard to start cold, and a nitemare to start up warm. When warm, 5-45 pulls. I have a very good local Stihl dealer that recognized the problem, and gave me a new power head. No hassle, no fight. The only way he could start it was to "drop start and pull the cord out all the way". My NEWer 361 is the best Stihl I have.

Mr X: you were busting me last month about my "keep the weight down" mission. You also made a comment about the Husky 372xp. I stopped in to my Husky dealer to check on a brush saw, and saw a 372xp on the rack. Picked it up, and wow, it just felt great and the balance with a 20" bar was perfect. Bought it !. As you can guess, I am not strong enough to use it all day,,,,,,,,,, but smart enough to recognize quality equipment !

bob
 
Bob,
You will not regret buying a 372. Open the muffler up a bit an it will bring a smile that may never go away. I really like my 044 but I believe a muffler modded 372 will out cut a muffler modded 044. I've run both and the 372 has a little more power. A modded 372 will limb well with a 16" bar and fell with a 36" bar (running semi skip 3/8). If you have the strength to run it as long as you need too, you'll never need another saw........just a few different bars. I feel you've made a very wise decision. Also, the more you run it the longer you'll be able to. Your endurance will build as you use it.
Happy cutting.:)
 
just wait tell it brakes in you will notice a huge gain on that saw you cant go wrong with that saw I love mine
 
we have sold quite a few of the 361's now. No problems as of yet, one old fart flooded one and thats all ive had in the shop.

sounds like youve got a crummy dealer. if we get one new that won't start right up. we grab another that will. then figure out why the one will not start right at a later time, no since in customer waiting around with thumb up rear the whole time.
 
361

Stihl needs that saw bck. The guys in Virginia Beach need to test it all out.
Did they at least change the carburetor and/or ignition?

one problem we have had is actually getting 361s. one, the hurricanes, everything was shuffled south.

Two: I hears there were some carb problems at the factory. Yours may have slipped through.

Glad this one runs correctly.:)
 
Add me to the list of happy 361 owners. I was the first one to start my saw ( I work for the dealer). I have about 6 tanks though it so far and it has been trouble free. My 026 wasn't happy with 3/8 on it but the 361 loves it, 9cc sure make a difference!
 
Sedanman,
Have you opened up the muffler on your 026? Does it have a fully adjustable carb? My 026 aka "little Leroy" cuts like crazy with 3/8. It will pull a 20" bar with 3/8 with nary a quip. Stock however it wouldn't bring the smile I so desperately need.
 
The 026 had to go to finance the 361 purchase. The muffler was stock the carb was fully adjustable. I was going to have it ported until I got the new saw bug.
 
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