XSKIER
Addicted to ArboristSite
That setup makes more sense to me.
Stihl 362 with 25 or 28 bar
- Thread starter Stihlburnin
- Start date
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That setup makes more sense to me.
tallfarmboy
ArboristSite Guru
Sure, buying a bar will help a little... BUT, buying a new saw will help LOTS! My vote is to find you a good used 70-80cc saw for the bigger bars.
windthrown
361 Junkie
Never mind the West Coast guys, they are so used to running overly long bars that they don't know what balance is.
What balance is that? When lugging the saw around? I fail (and always have failed) to understand this aspect of chainsaws, or the need to have a 'balanced' saw with the bar attached. When the saw is in the wood making falling cuts and dogged down and you are levering on it, the balanced bar debate becomes completely moot. Also when bucking, the center of gravity is farther out on a longer bar and hence has a beneficial effect, if anything. When walking a log in calks and/or limbing a log, you want the saw bar in a dropped position anyway, and a long bar means less bending and back stress. And longer bars allows for cutting from one side in larger diameter trees. Of course, we actually have larger diameter trees here. We also have hardwood trees here. Some native ones are Pacific Madrone, Oregon white oak, and bigleaf maple, and imported ones are eucalyptus and Norway maple. I have a lot of Norway maple on my property here. Just as dense as anything back east or in the EU.
Its a western vs. eastern paradigm for sure. As such, neither side will ever understand the other's perspective. Not all, but many people east if the Rockies suffer from shrimpy bar disease. Out west here, we all pretty much suffer from looooooong bar disease.
These long bar - short bar discussions are perpetual and a sign that AS is back on track again. To keep it going - I am in the it depends upon what you are cutting and your style of cutting camp. Personally I prefer 28" to 32" bars except for bucking in tight quarters - such as log piles. But I'm not going to fool myself in thinking that any of my 60cc +/- saws are going to cut as well with a 25" bar buried in an oak nor have the speed or power to keep me from or get me out of a serious bind as a shorter bar might in bar length wood. Long bars in big wood need more umph. Long bars in small wood should be no big deal power-wise if kept within reason.
Ron
Ron
XSKIER
Addicted to ArboristSite
You've forgotten aboot kevlargaffs already?
gsrsol84mm
ArboristSite Operative
Now that's funny
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
XSKIER
Addicted to ArboristSite
New forum, new haze of ignorance I guess.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
Still don't understand what you mean.
What I am talking about is the new "261 tuning kit", that is all the craze here at the moment. Stihl is offering for the 261 a 40cm/16inch bar with 3 chains in 3/8 picco PS3 full chisel in one package. That setup alone changes the aspect of your understanding of the words "fast foward"! If something similar was available for the 362 everyone would be running to the store trying to get a set!
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Stihlburnin
ArboristSite Lurker
I think Kevlargaff is running PS3 on a 28" Oregon bar, maybe that's worth looking into!
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
gsrsol84mm
ArboristSite Operative
It's actually PS Stihl Chain not the PS3 chain. That PS chain really cuts well. I run it on a Snellerized Stihl 201c and a stihl 192tc both with 14" bars
windthrown
361 Junkie
When they came out with the 024, Stihl briefly sold (for like 6 months) large mount Picco (low profile 3/8) bars. However, people were putting them on larger saws and Stihl considered them a safety and liability risk, so they discontinued large format Picco bars in the US. Logosol also made them for chainsaw milling, but last I looked there, they are not sold in the USA either. They are available overseas. You have to be careful using that stuff though on large saws 60cc and up. You can easily stretch the chain, and/or break it. They are great for 026 saws though. The narrow kerf makes for faster cutting.
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Stihlburnin
ArboristSite Lurker
He has a 261 on ebay with that set up!
gsrsol84mm
ArboristSite Operative
windthrown
361 Junkie
There is PS and PS3 chain... PS3 is full chisel safety Picco, and PS is full chisel non-safety Picco. PM3 and PMC3 is semi-chisel safety Picco. Last I looked, Stihl does not make a non-safety semi-chisel Picco chain, so I use Carlton for that (low profile, non-safety semi-chisel).
gsrsol84mm
ArboristSite Operative
I have tried the PS3 and PM3 and Like the PS chain for the limbing we do here. I do touch up the chain quite often with the Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener. I like that PS chain a lot and did not like the Pm3 chain at all. PS3 was not bad
for a safety chain. I would like to try some non safety semi chisel chain. Not sure why Stihl doesn't make any ?
Here is My Snellerized 201c and 192tc with PS chain and 14" bars - 9" dried elm
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Troll I love you man but this balance fetish makes me think you're back on smalahove for breakfast, lunch, and dinner again. I would ask you what bar should I use on my 090 for bucking the occasional BIG fir or redwood? Now I run a 4' or even a 5' bar and either combination is as nose heavy as a bulldozer. But, it reaches through the log. The only saw where balance is important to me is my MS200T. It wears a 16" light bar.
I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile. BTW it is a heavy bar. (However I have really fallen in love with the MS261/20" combo.) But for real work a 28" bar on a 440 or 441 suits my height best. I prefer the Stihl Light bar but even with a Cannon the "reach" and therefore my hand/shoulder position is optimal. I can work longer and with less back pain. Body and shoulder position is impotant, balance is not. At least to me. YMMV.
I like a 22" Stihl bar on the MS361 because I like the feel of the combo when cutting firewood in the skidder pile. BTW it is a heavy bar. (However I have really fallen in love with the MS261/20" combo.) But for real work a 28" bar on a 440 or 441 suits my height best. I prefer the Stihl Light bar but even with a Cannon the "reach" and therefore my hand/shoulder position is optimal. I can work longer and with less back pain. Body and shoulder position is impotant, balance is not. At least to me. YMMV.
