Stihl chain grind angles, 60/30/15 (?)

[HuskyPete]

I grind all chisel at 10*. It puts a sharper angle on the top plate.

It may put a sharper angle on part of the top plate, but I'm guessing that the reason that Stihl advocates 0* is that the blunter angle will actually last longer. I also have a sharpening business for knives and chisels for local businesses and there is a big difference between the life of a chisel at 25* and one at 30*. The 30* is no where near as fragile and the same with chef knives at 20 versus 25. I'm not saying that the way you file your chains is wrong because it isn't. The point is that the "normal" person wants longevity as a major goal not speed. As you know race chains are not sharpened to factory specs because they aren't interested in maximum cutting life.

 

[huskystihl]

you seem to contradict yourself.

Two different post from different members. I said I have factory fresh chains while someone else said that it's impossible to duplicate. I'll get a pic up here in a bit of one I just did and it's pretty close.

 

[huskystihl]

It may put a sharper angle on part of the top plate, but I'm guessing that the reason that Stihl advocates 0* is that the blunter angle will actually last longer. I also have a sharpening business for knives and chisels for local businesses and there is a big difference between the life of a chisel at 25* and one at 30*. The 30* is no where near as fragile and the same with chef knives at 20 versus 25. I'm not saying that the way you file your chains is wrong because it isn't. The point is that the "normal" person wants longevity as a major goal not speed. As you know race chains are not sharpened to factory specs because they aren't interested in maximum cutting life.

Stihl recomends 10 deg on the rsc. I stopped to get a blower filter and checked just to be sure. Not that I care because it works but 60,30,10 is right for full chisel, and yes it makes a big diff from degrees of the angle.

 

[nmurph]

Two different post from different members. I said I have factory fresh chains while someone else said that it's impossible to duplicate. I'll get a pic up here in a bit of one I just did and it's pretty close.

i apologize, too many huskies in this thread.

 

[mowoodchopper]

Stihl recomends 10 deg on the rsc. I stopped to get a blower filter and checked just to be sure. Not that I care because it works but 60,30,10 is right for full chisel, and yes it makes a big diff from degrees of the angle.

Same Here!!

 

[lumberjackmoe]

So what is it ????

I just found this information at this time be a logger who is giving me all of the cut off's before the go to the mill uses all 33 RSC 84 chains. Is it best to go 60/30/10 ? Thank you guys for helping me with this, because one sure can't find any help on a Stihl site.

 

[beelsr]

you're getting diff. opinions because the absolute values, in and of themselves - are kind of unimportant. Different chains, different wood, different saws... all cut differently. If you're running full-chisel in hardwood, you'll sharpen differently than semi-chisel in softwood or whatever.

I've standardized on 60/30 for everything so I don't have to think when I sharpen. I used to sharpen full chisel at 10% - even stihl chain - because the corner isn't flat, as brad says above. it cuts better but I sometimes forget and end up hand filing it at 0. 0 is easier to duplicate when handfiling for me - I can't estimate 10* very well, I guess. It used to bother me that I knew I wasn't getting perfecting the tooth's geometry but I've found that standardizing things as much as possible makes me faster overall: So I lose a tenth of a second per cut. I gain minutes in not having to repeat something because I forgot one variable in my setup.

it's kind of like finding what particular ammo runs best in a specific gun - you just need to try out some different combos and see what works for you. and then stick with it.

 

[H 2 H]

I'll have to put a degree wheel on my file tomorrow to see what angles im using

 

[Trx250r180]

i do mostly square grinding ,but on my oregon round one on the 10 degree part ,when you do the other side of the chain do you have to loosten the allen bolts up and use the 10 degree on other side of the zero for the other side ? or just set at one 10 degree to left of the zero for both sides of the chain ?be easier if i had a pic to explain

 

[lumberjackmoe]

Type of chain and wood

Beelsr, The chain is a Stihl 33 RSC 84 and the wood is mostly white oak and other hard woods. Another # for the chain is 3623 005 0084 Oilomatic.

 

[beelsr]

if all you have is RSC and you're cutting clean wood, 60/30/10 is a great place to start.

 

[madhatte]

Our shop stihl grinder only goes to 10.

Mine goes ALL THE WAY TO ELEVEN!

 

[beelsr]

Mine goes ALL THE WAY TO ELEVEN!

 

[tjcoogan]

i do mostly square grinding ,but on my oregon round one on the 10 degree part ,when you do the other side of the chain do you have to loosten the allen bolts up and use the 10 degree on other side of the zero for the other side ? or just set at one 10 degree to left of the zero for both sides of the chain ?be easier if i had a pic to explain

The way I read it in the Oregon manual is when setting the down angle for the LH cutter loosen the knob under the vise plate then swing the vise to the right and tilt the base plate away from you or inwards toward the machine until the reference mark on the RH side of the vise arm matches the rear mark. Then match the "Down 10" marker on the RHS of the front angle plate to the desired cutting angle i.e. 30*.

When you do the RH cutter loosen the knob under the vise plate then swing the vise to the left and tilt the base plate towards you you or outwards from the machine until the reference mark on the RH side of the vise arm matches the front mark. Then match the "Down 10" marker on the LHS of the front angle plate to the desired cutting angle i.e. 30*

The top sharpening angle i.e. 60* must also be adjusted to match the position of the "Down 10" reference mark on the underside of the arm motor unit.

The Oregon manual is not all that clear so I hope this helps.

 

[Grande Dog]

Howdy,
Here's something to knaw on. When you tilt the vise at any top plate angle above 0, you'll net a narrower kerf. The greater the top plate angle, the bigger the difference is in kerf from tilting the vise. So if you were to measure the net top plate angle after tilting the vise, it would be less. So in a perfect world, you set your vise to 30, 0 tilt, your chain top plate angle should be close to 30 degrees. With the same grinder, leaving the vise at 30, but now changing the tilt to 10, you're going to net a top plate angle of 25 degrees, or less.
I know I've said this before but, whether you're talking semi-chisel, or chisel, getting the top plate of the tooth completely on to the side of the grinding wheel will do a lot in your chains cutting performance. Doing this will leave a much more efficient straight edge rather than a rounded edge on the top plate.
Regards
Gregg