Stihl ms200t bolt for bolt rebuild video

[blsnelling]

#1, I don't feel like cutting squishband... even though it increases compression, I can get mostly there with one cut, instead of cutting squishband AND base...

#2, yes, this model has a small/thin base, but its still stronger than the flanges on the cylinder head itself.....NOT machining the base on the head means I'm not weakening the head...

#3, I can still run a gasket.

#4, it took me 30 minutes to mount, indicate and cut this... and I could probably do it faster once I get used to these....

#5, I don't feel like chucking it up on the lathe

Fair enough.

#1 I wasn't suggest cutting the squishband. I would simply chuck up a mandrel and cut the cylinder base, accomplishing the same thing you are here.

#3 You would still be able to run a base gasket after cutting the cylinder. However, there are a few saws that after cutting a popup, would thin the cylinder base too much if using a gasket. The 346 and 372 are two of those saws.

#4 5-10 minutes to cut a cylinder base.

#6 What if you weren't doing a full rebuilt and the crank didn't need to come out of the saw?

BTW, I'm not saying your way is wrong...just interested in discussing options.

 

[blsnelling]

another benefit to this method is that the next guy can just toss a new cylinder head on, or piston... without having to worry about running into clearance issues.

I do like that.

 

[Mattyo]

I totally like to put all options on the table, but for me it makes more sense to use the mill... I dunno why hehe. I actually have more experience running a lathe, but for some reason I just like to stick cases in a vice and mill them.

I really like the fact that the next guy that replaces the head will have the same benefit regardless of whether or not it gets port work.

I guess I just don't like the idea of cutting a cylinder base unless there is a lot of meat there. ..

 

[blsnelling]

All is well that ends well

 

[Mattyo]

Ya....though it's not like I've done hundreds of these....Maybe a few dozen saw decks total so far but I see no bad issues.

In my mind....if I can get an extra 20 % out of a saw vs a pro build which might be 40%...then I'm happy....and usually I'm doing this on trashed saws...so a saw is saved in the meantime

 

[71dart]

I marvel that you do your builds on a 1"x10" plank.
I have yet to get that deep into a 200t, but when the time comes this will be a good reference. Thanks.

 

[Mattyo]

It's more like a 1x8....or narrower...hehe

These vids are as much of a reference for myself as any other.....and thanks

 

[idiotwithasaw]

Yeah the board gets me too. My work area is so cluttered I might as well be using a plank tho.

 

[Mattyo]

whats really weird..... I own a sawmill. if I want a bigger plank, I can have one. tons sitting out in the back yard. just have to cut it and screw it down. ...just haven't done it yet!

 

[R DeLawter]

" just haven't done it yet!"

Maybe no one else, but I can look around my place and keep repeating that phrase.
We sure appreciate what you have done for us that are a wanting to learn!

I have many times put a board over my trash barrel to open up 1 more saw and then have to dig things out of the trash that have fallen off the board

 

[Mattyo]

Mt trash can/box is usually directly beneath the board so I constantly fish stuff out of there as well lol!

 

[idiotwithasaw]

I'm always having to crawl under my bench and Dow through the dirt to find the smallest bolt that fell. Or a carb spring...

 

[Mattyo]

yep...those carb springs are pesky...

2 days ago i lost a screw when fixing my cell phone ... you can imagine how small those things are....

 

[idiotwithasaw]

I know exactly what you are talking about. Lost a resistor off the display board on a battery booster box I have the other day. We looked everywhere for it. Turns out it was in my buddys boot. Lol

 

[MattG]

This would have really helped me 6 months when I did my first ever saw strip + rebuild. Which was on a 200t.

Thing I find tricky on it, is that there is a definite techique to the right order of reinstalling the carb. If I remember right you:

1. perch the carb on the bolts,
2. then do the throttle rod,
3. ease it halfway down the bolts,
4. then the fuel pipe,
5. push down the bolts - but watch you dont trap the choke rod, or displace the throttle rod,
6. then do the choke rod.

I found that the fuel pipe is sometimes a pain, and the throttle rod sometimes falls off midway.

(I've not seen all your clips yet - so I don't know if you've covered that area - just my 2 cents )

Matt

 

[Mattyo]

I was wondering about that, I'll use what ya got here in the rebuild vid... so far i've done teardown....thanks!

 

[MattG]

I was wondering about that, I'll use what ya got here in the rebuild vid... so far i've done teardown....thanks!

Yeah cool. I've may have forgotten the exact procedure so don't 100% rely on it! I just remember that it was one of the fiddly parts of playing with those saws. I've had the carby off+on a few times now and I think that on the last go, I'd got it just about right...

I used thin nosed fishing forceps to manoeuvre the fuel pipe in the last attempt, I think.

 

[juttree]

So how did it turn out? Is it back together yet?

 

[Mattyo]

still waiting on seals. I have oem seals coming. I think I have all the other parts I need

 

[juttree]

Looking forward to it