Stihl MS250 Oil Leak (no, not that one)

[KiwiBro]

Yes, we would. Or do they have a tackifer in them?

No Tackifier. Perhaps temperature is not a good indicator of friction. Perhaps the lower temps weren't from less friction, rather heat being flung off.

There's a relatively new wonder 'friction reducer' oil additive product called DT550. Hopefully someone up there (it's made in USA) will try it out and report back.

 

[PV Hiker]

Saw this at the local Ewing dealer yesterday. It shows safe for water ways and has high tack.
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[grizz55chev]

Interesting thread, it’s what brought me to AS in the first place! To the OP, you handled your question very well, and that goes a long way in solving your problem. These guys will throw out all kinds of answers, and ultimately you will fix the problem. It’s important to follow through and let the interested parties what the outcome is! Harley T is a wealth of info, and a bit sarcastic at times, but always willing to lend a hand. I think he nailed it with the loose bar studs.

 

[nastiliusprime]

Interesting thread, it’s what brought me to AS in the first place! To the OP, you handled your question very well, and that goes a long way in solving your problem. These guys will throw out all kinds of answers, and ultimately you will fix the problem. It’s important to follow through and let the interested parties what the outcome is! Harley T is a wealth of info, and a bit sarcastic at times, but always willing to lend a hand. I think he nailed it with the loose bar studs.

I have to wait a bit for delivery where I am at, and home depot didn't have anything worth my money but will be sure to update thread once I get a new bar on there.

 

[KiwiBro]

If so inclined, can buy tackifier:
http://www.functionalproducts.com/products/tackifiers/
i ain't bovvered

 

[nastiliusprime]

Fellas....
Good or bad news first?
Thanks to you guys, vice grips, thread lock, and a new bar we solved the oil issue. So fair to say it was the loose studs and the worn/warped bar couldn't have been helping. I went through a couple tanks of gas on Saturday peiceing up a downed oak, a big tree about 150 yrs old, 250 was working pretty well, idling a little high and stalling at times when I would take off the chain brake (whats that all about?), but other than that got me thorough the day and a good amount of wood.

Went to start it up yesterday and whenever I give it throttle, she stalls.
I cleaned the exhaust manifold and screen, and I have been playing with the adjuster screws for a while now and can't seem to get the balance right.
I should mention this is a new carb. but its not OEM (would that make this much of a difference?) and I just replaced fuel filter and that fuel line in the tank.
The adjusters do not seem to be the only variable as I can get the settings close to where I want them, shut off saw, restart the saw and the idle is higher than where I left it, now spinning the chain, or I can get the H setting to sound right then next time I pull trigger she stalls out.

Are there any other ideas that could be causing these symptoms or is carburetor the main culprit?

I originally replaced carb because the saw was given to me after sitting for years. Should I give the old Stihl carb. a good cleaning and see if issue persists or are there any better ideas?

Sorry to hit you guys with another problem but I got work to do!
Thanks again for all the help so far.

 

[SteveSr]

Fellas....
Good or bad news first?
Thanks to you guys, vice grips, thread lock, and a new bar we solved the oil issue. So fair to say it was the loose studs and the worn/warped bar couldn't have been helping. I went through a couple tanks of gas on Saturday peiceing up a downed oak, a big tree about 150 yrs old, 250 was working pretty well, idling a little high and stalling at times when I would take off the chain brake (whats that all about?), but other than that got me thorough the day and a good amount of wood.

Went to start it up yesterday and whenever I give it throttle, she stalls.
I cleaned the exhaust manifold and screen, and I have been playing with the adjuster screws for a while now and can't seem to get the balance right.
I should mention this is a new carb. but its not OEM (would that make this much of a difference?) and I just replaced fuel filter and that fuel line in the tank.
The adjusters do not seem to be the only variable as I can get the settings close to where I want them, shut off saw, restart the saw and the idle is higher than where I left it, now spinning the chain, or I can get the H setting to sound right then next time I pull trigger she stalls out.

Are there any other ideas that could be causing these symptoms or is carburetor the main culprit?

I originally replaced carb because the saw was given to me after sitting for years. Should I give the old Stihl carb. a good cleaning and see if issue persists or are there any better ideas?

Sorry to hit you guys with another problem but I got work to do!
Thanks again for all the help so far.

AM carbs can be hit or miss. You my also have a crankcase air leak. Check the fuel line for a crack where it enters the tank. Spray it with brake cleaner so that you can see the condition of the actual rubber. Check the impulse hose where it connects to the carb base. As with all hoses this one can crack and come loose (usually at the carb base.

If I was rehabbing this saw I would put a genuine Walbro WT-215 carb on it. Depending on vintage you may have to buy a new carb screw grommet to match the new carb. It should still be available but may have to go back to the 025 IPL to find the correct part number.