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Stihl MS250 w/pulled bar studs
- Thread starter Scottnc
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Scottnc
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Bumping this up in case someone is interested in the repair.
Since the stud holes were already too big for repair studs when I got the saw, I opened them up with a 7/16"-14 helicoil tap drill. Drilled and tapped using the standard HC tap to the very bottom of the hole. Followed that with a HC bottom tap and screwed in the helicoil inserts. Left the insert tails on as there wasn't clearance to remove them. Using two short Chevy smallblock head bolts, studs were fashioned taking care that the step from 7/16"-14 to 8mm X 125 was flat (90°) and at the same height with the stud bottomed in the hole as the plastic housing counterbore (where the factory stainless washers set).
It could be argued another housing was in order as the above repair ran to over two hours. I did it as a favor for a neighbor who has done me a good turn or two in the past. Got him out cheap. It's all good.
Since the stud holes were already too big for repair studs when I got the saw, I opened them up with a 7/16"-14 helicoil tap drill. Drilled and tapped using the standard HC tap to the very bottom of the hole. Followed that with a HC bottom tap and screwed in the helicoil inserts. Left the insert tails on as there wasn't clearance to remove them. Using two short Chevy smallblock head bolts, studs were fashioned taking care that the step from 7/16"-14 to 8mm X 125 was flat (90°) and at the same height with the stud bottomed in the hole as the plastic housing counterbore (where the factory stainless washers set).
It could be argued another housing was in order as the above repair ran to over two hours. I did it as a favor for a neighbor who has done me a good turn or two in the past. Got him out cheap. It's all good.
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