Stihl MS250c meltdown, need opinions

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jr27236

jr27236

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My buddy bought this used for $150. Cut one small tree, and the new hand tighten system it has (not the 2 bar nuts but the plastic wing nut) broke off. He gave to me to fix. I got the new part and ran it, the bar overheated right away. I removed the clutch and found a lot of melted damage. The oil channel from pump to bar is open, the worm gear for pump is melted, and the clip on worm gear is missing some. Did I mention there's NO needle bearing for the drum, it's just sitting on the shaft. I assume the guy knew what he was selling. It ran perfectly otherwise btw. So now, is it worth fixing, I would need a whole half of case, correct? Keep in mind, I've never gone that deep into a saw before, have dealer fix?
How long did you run it for after you fixed it? Did you immediately take off the cover? Was that plastic still soft and melted when you inspected it? OK, basically what im saying is did you run the **** out of it and accidently leave the brake on causing this damage??? Lol
I'm just breaking your chops. I'd try changimg the case, at this point you have nothing to lose and teach yourself the workings of a saw/two stroke.
 

rd35

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Just now read this whole thread (skimmed anyway). I do not see where anybody discussed the issue with the missing needle bearing. So here's my concern. If this thing was run with no needle bearing on the drum, then the drum was able to wobble around the crank. This would cause misalignment of the drum allowing it to rub the brake band even with the brake released. This is likely what caused all the heat that melted the plastic case. Now, what I would look at before going further is the end of the crank shaft where clutch drum needle bearing normally runs. That crankshaft may be damaged on the end. Worth taking a look for sure.
 
Efisher26

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All the plastic was hard when I took it apart. The shaft looks good, the threaded part of the worm gear was still there, and the threads on shaft are perfect, if the oil passage hadn't melted I bet I if replaced all small parts it would have worked. Like I said it ran perfect just no oil, no sounds, no vibrations.
 
KennyPete

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I repair a lot of saws that were "fixed" with Chinese parts. I would avoid any of the following:

Cheap cylinder kits
Cranks
Bearings
Seals
Clutches
Oil pumps
Intake boots

I have used Chinese plastics, clutch covers, felling dogs, pull start assemblies, etc without issue, but when it comes to moving parts you want something made with high tolerances and quality controls. I have seen moulded aftermarket 290/390 cases snap at the seams because they can't handle the vibration.

The only way I will use eBay cylinders and such is if people bring me them with their saw to be assembled. I will not purchase them, and I make the customer sign a paper waiving my warranty on repairs due to cheap aftermarket parts.
 
a. palmer jr.
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I've had several people come to me asking me to fix their saw the cheapest way possible. I've told them what that means and they're okay with it. I don't make them sign anything though..One guy recently told me to put in an aftermarket cylinder kit this time..I tore it down and it already had an aftermarket kit in it..The previous shop must have led him to believe they installed OEM.
 
KennyPete

KennyPete

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See that **** bothers me.. I had a guy bring me a MS460 he purchased off a reputable local shop. Saw worked fine for about 3 tanks before it took a crap.

Turns out it was a cheap aftermarket cylinder kit, and further inspection showed it was actually a 440, that someone put a 460 badge on.
 
jr27236

jr27236

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See that **** bothers me.. I had a guy bring me a MS460 he purchased off a reputable local shop. Saw worked fine for about 3 tanks before it took a crap.

Turns out it was a cheap aftermarket cylinder kit, and further inspection showed it was actually a 440, that someone put a 460 badge on.
Did you send him back to this reputable shop?
 

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