stihl ms270: thoughts?

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I guess the 270 is over $400 as well! And the 353 is lighter weight too!

Sorry :(

Al
2152/353 is better anyway you look at them, Not that the 270 is a bad saw but the 353/2152 are better compared to the 260 even then I think they come out on top of course I am biased:)
 
in my area, i can get a 270 for $369 w/ a 16" b&c. a 260 goes for $479 w/ 16" b&c. i can get a dolmar 5100s for just under $400. not sure about the 2152, i don't really like it that much, the 2153 is way better, but closer in price to the 260.
 
The 270/280 can be switched to 3/8" chain by using the 026/260 rim drive setup. A good dealer should do it for you.
 
Personally I would stay away from the 5100. I know alot of guys on here like em but I tore two of them up, both new in less than the warranty time. Luckily the dealer sold husvarna and gave me credit towards the 372, I would look at the 353 as well over the 270.
 
I had a 270. I thought it was a very good saw. Compared to my 026 (before I did some mods to it) they were pretty much identical power wise. The 026 was a bit lighter, but the 270 vibrated a LOT less. Both had 16" bars and .325 chain. I ended up giving the 270 to my dad and buying an MS361 simply because I ended up making good money selling firewood, was working in the woods a lot more, and mainly just because I wanted one.

He really likes the 270 also, and I let 2 friends use it (under my close supervision, of course) and both were impressed with it. Mine was $349 with a hard case. I did a lot of homework and looked at Huskys and the Dolmar 5100, but for the price I was very happy with it.
 
I'm not brand loyal by any means. I've run a 260, 260pro, 270 and 280. They all get the job done. But I wouldn't own any of them.
I can take a 350 off the shelf, spend an hour with the dremel and it will run better than any of them. And it's cheaper, even after buying the grinding wheels.
I don't like the Husky 34xp old style either. I haven't run one of the new ones yet so I can't comment. But I am not jumping on the band wagon to get one.
The 50cc class has really left a hole, I think Dolmar might have it (have yet to run one of them either, and dealer support is drying up around here) but I don't know.
I would encourage you to look at used on the trading post here. Try it, if you don't like it you don't take a big hit on it.
 
I guess the 270 is over $400 as well! And the 353 is lighter weight too! How about them apples!!!

Sorry :(

Al

Now I know why you only run huskys. That is way high.:jawdrop: My dealer wants 369 for a 270. 16 or 18 bar, your choice.

My dolmar dealer wants over 400 for a 5100 too.

My closet Husky dealer has a 346xp, but it is the old version and around $450.:dizzy:

I will never buy a new saw again anyways. 400 bucks will get you a really nice used saw in the 60cc to 80cc range. For example, Brad has his 7900 BB saw up for sale, $475. :)
 
I'm not brand loyal by any means. I've run a 260, 260pro, 270 and 280. They all get the job done. But I wouldn't own any of them.
I can take a 350 off the shelf, spend an hour with the dremel and it will run better than any of them. And it's cheaper, even after buying the grinding wheels.
I don't like the Husky 34xp old style either. I haven't run one of the new ones yet so I can't comment. But I am not jumping on the band wagon to get one.
The 50cc class has really left a hole, I think Dolmar might have it (have yet to run one of them either, and dealer support is drying up around here) but I don't know.
I would encourage you to look at used on the trading post here. Try it, if you don't like it you don't take a big hit on it.

I knew you would throw the 350 out there.:clap: A pretty d@mn good saw for the money. A tad slower than a 270, but 70 bucks cheaper. The only problem I have seen is the muffler coming loose and melting the plastic around it. Besides that, way better than any husky till you get to the 346xp.
 
I'm not brand loyal by any means. I've run a 260, 260pro, 270 and 280. They all get the job done. But I wouldn't own any of them.
I can take a 350 off the shelf, spend an hour with the dremel and it will run better than any of them. And it's cheaper, even after buying the grinding wheels.
I don't like the Husky 34xp old style either. I haven't run one of the new ones yet so I can't comment. But I am not jumping on the band wagon to get one.
The 50cc class has really left a hole, I think Dolmar might have it (have yet to run one of them either, and dealer support is drying up around here) but I don't know.
I would encourage you to look at used on the trading post here. Try it, if you don't like it you don't take a big hit on it.

The NE346xp nailed the 50cc class, and the price differenses in the US is a joke, seen from here.......:cheers:
 
at work we have a 270c, 026, 2152, and a 350. the 350 kick the bucket when the muffler fell off, tryed coils nothing worked for more than an hour. i always grab the 270, its the smoothest saw i have ever run. the 2152 is also good. i would recommend the 270 out of the bunch, have had it for about 5 years (about 250 hours of use a year)and never had one problem with it and thats using 87octane gas only. we also have a 361,460 and an 880 for stumps. in my experince i would always go with stihl, have had problems with the others, not many though. my next buy for the company is the 280. i like the 50cc class cause there light and don't kill my back. thats just my opinion
 
The funniest thing is that all saws listed minus crapmar will get the job done and do it for a very long time. Dolmar is johnny come lately, Husqvarna is johnny cut fastly and stihl is johnny cut always. Get the saw that you like the dealer from and just go cut. Most saws wont last as long as the discussions do here so quit stalling.
 
Sometimes, and for almost all homeowners, the best choice is having a local dealer to keep it running for you:greenchainsaw:
 
I've got a 270 w/18" bar that I bought new in 04. Not one issue with it. I honestly don't have much experience with any other (good) saws, but I'd encourage anyone to get a 270.

Mine is the C with the quick chain adjuster also... I was leary of how it would hold up at first, but not one issue with it, and it's very handy not to have to grab the wrench to adjust the tension while cutting, or be able to change the chain out in about 2 minutes without tools.
 
The funniest thing is that all saws listed minus crapmar will get the job done and do it for a very long time. Dolmar is johnny come lately, Husqvarna is johnny cut fastly and stihl is johnny cut always. Get the saw that you like the dealer from and just go cut. Most saws wont last as long as the discussions do here so quit stalling.

Good advice .:cheers:
 
First, I got and am totally partial to the MS270.

Now, I am not deep into all the .325 cha9in vs the other chain issues, all I know is as long as I do my end of the job and keep it sharp, the chain cuts just fine (and I do a lot of very frozen wood, been out there as low as –30, though I did not last long at that temperature).

What’s interesting, I have lived in Alaska all but two years (my folks hauled me up the highway kicking and screaming at age 2). I have never had a new saw, though I cut a lot, all work stuff and those were Mac and Homelights (Mac were fast and hard to start, Homlite were slow and started reliably).

I fell in love with the Stihl surveying as they were light (not sure what model, but smaller than the 270) and they wood (all these puns intended) cut as much as you needed (sometimes one damned tree on line after another) and you could reach up one handed and cut limbs off (and yes I know its dangerous, but given the choice of 15 minutes to cut a tree vs one whack and move on the one cut won. You position yourself carefully and be prepared to throw the saw away if it starts to go wrong, which I never had happen.

So, I wanted a Stihl. Light, great cutters and full lcoal support.

I got a real knowledge guy who cuts wood and we decided that at 10 cords a year (roughly) cutting no more often two days a week and often less, the mid range saws wood do it.

At that point it was a decision between price and need. The need just did not seem to justify the 280 or bigger. While the 270 would work full out occasionally, it was only 1% of the time, the rest it was 30 to 70%. The 270 seemed to fulfill that at the best price.

Oddly, up here, as they cut a lot of brush, they only bring in 20 inch saws (Stihl suggests a 16 inch bar as the best of this saw).

I knew I did not need 20 inch as I was only cutting on a lot pile, and if I ever brush, then I can live with 18 inch (and it makes a handy reference for round length as that’s what the fireplace will take).

Up here we cut 3 types. Birch (best,) spruce distant second, and aspen last (cotton wood is a waste). A lot is done in winter from –20 to 32 or so.

As long as I keep the chain sharp, it cuts gangbuster, and the anti vibration system not only works, it makes vibration a totally zero issue.

The auto oil works fine, never has come up short. Weight is low enough that its not an issue. Its held up just fine at maybe 30 cords so far.

Frankly I think its all the saw you need including the 280, 290 or the Pro 260. If you need more than the 270, then the MS361 would be the choice.

The only thing I am skeptical about is the winter bar oil. When I went to using that, I have had two chains break. They originally had only the summer stuff and no issue in winter. Suspect that it’s the oil weight, and the guy who sold it indicated that the oil reservoir heated up just fine from engine heat in the winter and it delivered just fine. I may go back to it or mix 50/50

It can be just a bit picky on starting, but I have figured out that it mostly likes the serious full choke until it fire, or at least fires and stops. Then to the regular choke and fine. Totally hot no choke.

It flooded once for no reason and I pulled the plug and cleaned and fired up.

It flooded a second time and froze up the blade at –20 amidst a lot of flying snow I could not get away from on the logs. I was froze up to, so I went home. I could not get it to start even with the bar thawed and clearing the plug, I tired the book procedure and nada as well.

I figured the whole thing was packed with snow and better to thaw and dry and then try the next day. It Stihl would not start, I was about ready to take it in when I decided that I needed to follow what I do at work, go back to the start, and follow instructions line by line reading each step from memory.

Upshot was that when I did the clearing of the flooding right with the right setting, it blow a mess of fuel out. I cleaned the plug, followed the rest and it fired up immediately.

Frankly I think it’s the unsung hero in the line that gives you all you need with all the bang for the buck required until you just cut so much and or heavy you need a Pro, and then you want the MS361. The MS361 is great if you need it and you have the money, but it will cost you $200 more.

I think the MS270 is the ideal bang for the buck for that mid range cutting class and use, bar none.
 

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